Page 5 of 11 FirstFirst 12345678910 ... LastLast
Results 61 to 75 of 165

Thread: low BLM

  1. #61
    Fuel Injected!
    Join Date
    Jan 2017
    Location
    St Augustine FL.
    Posts
    141
    Fuel pressure is good, the Schrader valve and gauge didn't mate well so I removed the valve core and it started reading pressure. Right after I got that figured out, I closed the door on my data cable and it stopped working. Well I got the new cable in the mail yesterday and I'm back at it. Here is a log of my drive home from work. I'm having surging, stumbles when stopping, slow acceleration, popping from TB when I give it more than half throttle and if I stab the gas at a roll, it will go dead for 3 to 4 seconds, pop a couple times before is gets the gas or timing that it needs and then it goes fast. 7302.xdlvortec.binShould the off and idle VE tables be the same and same question for the timing tables.

  2. #62
    Fuel Injected! donf's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2017
    Location
    Oregon
    Posts
    275
    I set my timing tables the same. The idle and the open throttle table are not, similar but that is the advantage of two tables. Your tune does look messed up from the BLM numbers. I think you have more than one problem with the tune. I would tune the main and idle tables in steady state first! When trying to populate the tables its important to move the throttle very very slowly and smoothly. Yours is jumping around all over and your open throttle section was followed by slamming the throttle shut. Not good at all and not staying in one place for very long. Garbage in and garbage out. Your numbers are so far off though I would use most of them (over 20 sample counts) in the spread sheet shared here somewhere to make the corrections. All the hand editing and smoothing does take a lot of time. Keep it up and you will get there. Your tune is likely rich in steady state and has other mixture problems on acceleration or transition. Also check out the knock retard running maximum retard numbers. You may have a problem or not, but I would not be happy seeing 22 degrees of knock retard even if it was intermittent. For some reason the newer OD logging files have useless columns, sure it looks fancy but you had better not confuse that data with the rows your bin actually needs or your tune will be messed up. I took them out!

  3. #63
    Fuel Injected!
    Join Date
    Jan 2017
    Location
    St Augustine FL.
    Posts
    141
    I have a Aem 30-0300 o2, do I install it in place of the narrow band and wire it in to the exciting narrow band pigtail?

  4. #64
    Fuel Injected! donf's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2017
    Location
    Oregon
    Posts
    275
    Quote Originally Posted by dhworkin View Post
    I have a Aem 30-0300 o2, do I install it in place of the narrow band and wire it in to the exciting narrow band pigtail?
    I would not. I would add a second bung and run them both. The simulation of a narrow band is close but not quite the same thing. With mine I bought a brand new ac delco sensor on eBay cheap. Mine had a few years on it. Then the wide band is for information only and can be removed at any time.

  5. #65
    Fuel Injected! donf's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2017
    Location
    Oregon
    Posts
    275
    I like wide band a lot, but your tables are so far off you could actually get part of the process done just by using the info you log with the narrow band in Tunerpro RT. Remember to look at the log tables of the $0D and they will have extra columns that will mess up your tuning process. http://www.gearhead-efi.com/Fuel-Inj...r-Spread-Sheet sort of a quick and dirty way of making some fixes to make the truck run better when you drive it around to fine tune it.

  6. #66
    Electronic Ignition!
    Join Date
    Nov 2018
    Posts
    14
    AEM Electronics suggests 18 inches from the head for placement of the O2 sensor. I was wondering if you should use one, or both exhaust steams combined. Assuming you have a good engine I guess it doesn't matter.

  7. #67
    Fuel Injected! donf's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2017
    Location
    Oregon
    Posts
    275
    Quote Originally Posted by Owl View Post
    AEM Electronics suggests 18 inches from the head for placement of the O2 sensor. I was wondering if you should use one, or both exhaust steams combined. Assuming you have a good engine I guess it doesn't matter.
    With a newer wide band placement is not as critical. Its heated and even when I have sample tubes stuck into the tail pipe it works short term. They are the manufacture so its best to locate it like they said as it may help keep the sensor clean. One or two is your choice. I have experimented with both and its usually close the same readings. If you only have one sensor and two pipes and are really picky, you could install the sensor in the second pipe as a check after tuning is done on the first. If its a 2 into 1 system you can put the bung at the y with good results. USA made o2 bungs are on ebay very reasonable so grab a few and head to you favorite welder. Be sure to grab a plug or two for when you are done.

  8. #68
    Fuel Injected!
    Join Date
    Jan 2017
    Location
    St Augustine FL.
    Posts
    141
    I’ve been looking into the knock retard, I think I have a problem. When I look at history tables all I see are 0s when viewing running maximum, but I can see it drop the timing in the lists. What will cause it to pull out timing when accelerating? And it never shows knock retard, could the knock sensor be bad?

  9. #69
    Fuel Injected! donf's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2017
    Location
    Oregon
    Posts
    275
    Post up the file of the drive. Did you get your fuel issues sorted? I would work on that first, then switch. In my timing tables the timing at wot does drop compared to the part throttle areas. Remember all this is not exact. Gm never released its code to the public. When I was trying to look at timing tables any retard number under zero would read -28899383 timing or some crazy number like that. That alone makes me doubt the integrity of the data. John from 1320 tried some code changes in his software to help. Its files use mostly the same as tuner pro, but the changes did not fix the problem. So many people think what they are seeing is in tuner pro logs are exact and the truth. A lot of this is a reversed engineered wild guess and it does have bugs.

  10. #70
    Fuel Injected!
    Join Date
    Jan 2017
    Location
    St Augustine FL.
    Posts
    141
    11111.xdl11111 is the ride out of town.3333.xdl3333 is a back road, tried to be steady with the throttle. Yes fuel issue is fixed. I do see the 22.5 degree timing 0n the max retard history table and I don't like that, what could cause that? The only sensor not changed is the knock. All sensors where replaced with ac delco when I installed the motor, and they have been changed again because of me trouble shooting via throwing parts at it. I've changed distributor, pcm, coil, wires, driveshaft, axles, wheels, tires(twice), brakes(rotors, drums, pads, shoes, calipers, slave cylinders), steering box, all steering parts and the shocks. All of that work and nothing has changed (it still shakes and jerks like its a bad tire or it has a ignition miss).

  11. #71
    Fuel Injected!
    Join Date
    Jan 2017
    Location
    St Augustine FL.
    Posts
    141
    vortec.binThis is the bin I used in the data log.

  12. #72
    Fuel Injected!
    Join Date
    Jan 2017
    Location
    St Augustine FL.
    Posts
    141
    4444.xdl4444 should be the steady log.

  13. #73
    Fuel Injected! donf's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2017
    Location
    Oregon
    Posts
    275
    I looked at the 3333 and 4444 log. Its better but your fuel tables still need a little work. You could hook up the wideband now and use its data to better see whats happening. You will never get it to stay at 128 at all times but the lower kpa ranges are rich and the higher ones are lean. If the miss or jerk problem is under transition, it could be need more or less fuel under those conditions, but I would get the steady state tuning done a little better before trying to tackle that. Having someone ride with you to see what cells are active in the logger when the problem happens would be helpful too. It may not be that at all, all we can see is numbers on the computer screen, but its a start.

    Your spark logs look pretty normal, including the crazy 23039.682 and 420 numbers in the cells, its just something that happens when $0D in tuner pro goes to retard and a pretty good indicator not to take the information all too seriously. I have no idea why you are hitting 22 degrees of knock retard in the lower cells intermittently. You will see the average in that cell is just over 1 degree. I would pull one degree from several cells in that immediate area and see if it helps. Your at 198/ 205 temperature in all runs so you might switch it to a 180 degree thermostat. The hotter the engine the more likely it is to knock. In the spark advance tables with my van I noticed if I was not steady with the throttle at all times what appeared to be happening is numbers from one cell get logged into another. The crazy numbers filling the table seem to be with large and sudden changes in the throttle. I do not know that for a fact, but driving like a grandma helped my spark table look a lot like it should. Having a helper watch the table to see spark retard max might be interesting too. If the 22.5 degrees of retard gets set when you have your jerk or miss or what ever is happening it could be a clue.
    Last edited by donf; 08-14-2019 at 02:24 AM.

  14. #74
    Fuel Injected!
    Join Date
    Jan 2017
    Location
    St Augustine FL.
    Posts
    141
    I got a 180 thermostat, my shield gas refilled and the rest of the weekend to work on my truck. Thank you for all the info. I finally decided to set it to stay in open loop and see what happens, most all problems went away. I don’t understand why but it’s good to know that it’s going get better. There is not much power in open loop but it doesn’t stumble, shake and shut off when coming to a stop. What sensors are not used when in open loop? I’ve checked all the wiring under the hood and will check for bad wires underneath when I weld in the bung. I might drop the transmission as well to install a torque converter with a little less stall. I never mentioned the torque converter when I listed the mods, would that affect the tune?

  15. #75
    Fuel Injected! donf's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2017
    Location
    Oregon
    Posts
    275
    The difference between open and closed is mostly in closed the computer is adjusting the fuel mixture. Do you have the wideband hooked up? The problem not happening in open loop is a pretty good indicator that your main tables still need work.

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •