Has anybody ever used this ??

[Tunedperformance]

So today's great reply when they sent me a link and said I need a moates g1 and I asked is there any instruction for this will it in fact work with pp1 or pp2 and what is the setting. Does the 32 pin insert onto the g1 or the 28 pin ribbon and what is the direction or orientation. The reply from this smuck is we do not know what a g1 is please contact that automotive supplier.

[EagleMark]

I don't understand how a business survives in this day and age like that? Basically their tech support has not changes since I dealt with them once 6 plus years ago.

[Tunedperformance]

Well one last shot, I forwarded asking george indorf The guy at intronics too see what kinda answers I get from them. I can't figure it out either must be nice to be a middle man not know products and have a two year old answer emails.

[1project2many]

Those guys are really geared toward techies, not the average Joe. They always have been. Are you trying to figure out how to use the emulator, or just trying to get Intronics to answer your questions? Did the instructions help? What exactly do you want answered?

[Tunedperformance]

I can't view the instructions for a few days Im on a mac on dial up and my pc is at my other house. I wanted to know if the 32 pin goes to a pp1 or pp2 or is it the 28 pin on the ribbon and what is the orientation. Is it a 256k or 512K? what setting do I chose on the ppi or pp2 and what software will it work with tuner pro v4?

[1project2many]

I'll start by saying I know almost nothing about TunerPro. If that software supports the PP1 or PP2 then you may be able to use it for the emulator.

The instructions say the emulator can be used for 2716 through 27256 eproms which means good to 256k and is the right size for the 165/7730 but not for the 7427.

The board has the 32 pin connector and that's the side which gets installed in the programmer. It would never fit in an ecm anyway. The ribbon cable extends to the ecm. If PP is sitting so the ZIF lever is at the top and the cable for the printer port is on the right, the emulator cable should be on the left hand side. The emulator cable and the PP cable should not be on the same side. There's a stripe on the emulator cable which is on the same side of the 28 pin connector as pin 1. Put that stripe on the same side of the ecm socket as pin 1. On a 7165/7130/7749 the stripe would be toward the outside of the ecm. On the C3 family the stripe would be closer to the center of the ecm.


The actual software is modified although I can't run it until I dig out my laptop to tell you what's changed. Programming voltage and the correct pin(s) for programming will matter. This information is not in the instructions. If you're familiar with older PP software then the actual user screens look very similar. Select the eprom type to emulate, load the file, then program the file to the emulator. This software mentions using the emulator for PC BIOS so it makes sense that the only way to make a change is to upload an entire new file or manually change it in the built in hex editor.

I've uploaded the instructions as a text file. It's 22k so you should be able to view it with no trouble. If I were talking to George I would send a copy of the instructions to remind him what emulator you're working with and ask for 1) technical info regarding programming, erasing, and pinouts for the emulator, and 2) the latest version of the operating software he might have, and 3) if that software will work with Windows XP.
HTH.

[Tunedperformance]

Wow, Thanks so much 1project2many ;). I have no experience with Tp as well, Craig moates told me a while back it may work with tpv4. You gave me so much info that helps alot. I have been using tc since 99. I just heard back from george his response was as expected. I will fool around with this before I list it on ebay. Im thinking of not including a g1 don't think I would get the money back for one of those.

Brian,

We discounted this product in 2002 have no more info on it.

Sorry,
George

________________________________

From: Brian Van Schoiack [mailto:brianlvs@yahoo.com]
Sent: Mon 4/16/2012 9:25 PM
To: George Indorf
Subject: Fw: Product information Please


Hello, george. I am wanting to use a product I purchased back in 2000. I have a few questions I have been unable to get answered. I have a rom emulator rev 2a I purchased to work with a gm ecm. I assume but don't know it is 512K ? What chip do I set the pp1 or pp2 too? Is there any instructions or information on this? Will it work with my pp1 or pp2? does the 32 pins on the circuit board goto a 28 pin adapter to hook to the ecm or do the 28 pins on the ribbon cable goto the ecm and is there a orientation? I have attached a picture on the link below.

[EagleMark]

Just curious of this anceint technoligy, what was this thing supposed to do for what if it didn't work on GM ECMs?

[RobertISaar]

well, as long at it met the speed and size capacity, emulate a PROM in any application that used one.

[1project2many]

Just curious of this anceint technoligy, what was this thing supposed to do for what if it didn't work on GM ECMs?

This software mentions using the emulator for PC BIOS

Like Robert said, most hardware using those eproms. Long before we car hacks were fooling around with ecms, people were using rom emulators to work with computers and electronics. Real time changes weren't needed for most systems as you'd write the code then run it through the paces to see if it does what's needed. UV technology only allows maybe thousands of erase cycles, and as some folks here have learned the early stuff was rather sensitive. A single $200 box could save a bunch of time and money long term. When the car guys got involved everything changed. The emulator had to be able to rewrite single bits instead of a complete upload, had to do writes quickly enough that it wouldn't interfere with ecm reads (or it had to have two memory banks and be able to quickly switch between them while the ecm was doing a read), it had to be made with components having a wider temperature range and a little more rugged design, had to have more rugged enclosure, had to be able to survive when plugged in or operated incorrectly... not at all the same equipment as a technician or engineer would use in a shop or lab. There were a few others that were tried but didn't get the job done. The Intronics Romulator was really built for the car guys, not for the electronics industry.

[EagleMark]

We should change your title to EFI historian!

[Tunedperformance]

Can we change yours too butter fingers !!

[EagleMark]

But I like Snickers?

[1project2many]

I think I have some information on the Bendix Electro-Jection system.
http://www.ch300imp.com/bendix_us.htm
How would you a like a trunk full of vacuum tubes and a system that acted funny around high voltage power lines and strong FM signals? :) Not to mention the power requirements and heat dissipation needs...

I have a factory service manual here for 64 Vette Rochester FI which I've studied but that's not electronic. I was able to work out the complete mechanical fuel injection system on an old gas job Mercedes years ago by comparing to what I knew of EFI. Was really cool.

[EagleMark]

I have a factory service manual here for 64 Vette Rochester FI which I've studied but that's not electronic.

I worked on one of those in mid 80's. After several days of double checking everything to factory specs we changed a few settings to make it run good. I wish I would have keep into that as it is more of a feel and art form to tune. But after all the time spent was a very frustrating adventure...

That Chrysler FI project of 1958 looks very cool but sounds like a disaster...