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Thread: 1994 F body pcm for 1996 Y body obd II to obd I conversion?

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  1. #1
    Fuel Injected!
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    I'm pretty sure if CATS software bricks it you're on your own too. Use EEhack and just make sure the battery voltage is good and the comms are stable.

  2. #2
    LT1 specialist steveo's Avatar
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    I'm pretty sure if CATS software bricks it you're on your own too.
    he does offer a repair service, last i checked (i think he built himself an in-place bench reflashing thinger)

  3. #3
    LT1 specialist steveo's Avatar
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    its also worth mentioning that one advantage to eehack's flash write is that it's designed to write less packets. it remembers your last bin write and only flashes the half of the ECM you've changed, and it doesn't write anything to areas of the bin that the ECM doesn't actually look at.

    technically this should make it safer, but i think tunercat's tool is still more mature. he probably understand's EE's code better, and does this for a living, while i'm just a nerd who wanted to prove that i could write a flash tool that works.

  4. #4
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    I’ve been wanting to use eehack since last year but I had to sell that project. I believe that it is the way to go and a lot of folks seem to think so as well. I hear there are things you can do to help make it safer. Like unplugging the fans and such that cycle during the flash. I’m going to run a charger on the car and use my mini desktop for the tuning that will be plugged into the wall.

  5. #5
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    Well the day kinda ended in disappointment my red river cable will only work with 94/95 scan program as of now. Winflash or eehack just won’t communicate with the 94 pcm. I tried everything tried different windows compatibility whe whole deal. Reinstalled drivers and all kinds of stuff. Short of making a bench set up idk what else to try.

  6. #6
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    Success! Started pulling fuses and the airbag/ccm ones did it. Specifically the ccm 3 is the one that does it. Well anyways she worked! Eehack kicks ass. I noticed I have a code 43 so I guess my solder mod for the knock sensor didn’t work, I’m goin to take it out of the ecu and try it in line. I’m getting a code 96 as well from the trans so I know I’m going to need to do the valve body but I’m very happy right now! Everything will come together soon.

  7. #7
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    You need to load a calibration from 1995 on the PCM for the transmission.
    You sure you get code 96. Cant you just grab a knock sensor from 94-95 application and scrap that resistor mod.
    Make sure on the settings window in eehack to select y-body connection.

  8. #8
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    Sorry that’s my bad it’s a code 97 for vss I jumped the gun. Yes I’m going to have to agree with you on the swapping the right knock sensor and ditching the resistor it’s just a more solid solution. I’ll pick one up tomorrow and see when I can use my buddy’s lift to swap it. All and all it seems to be working fine though. The bin I modified is a 95 bin so all the trans stuff is from there. Yes y body was set and it was silencing Aar and such but there was still to much chatter. Fuses pulled and it works fine I’ll live with it.

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