Fuel Pump, Filter and lines

[POZE]

Used a tool to make GM o-ring line ends and used a GM TBI filter. I used a patch flex line at the engine and no clamps on anything. All o-ring or double flare.
Feel free to criticize. I am learning this is my first one. I did move the pump below the bottom of the tank. Picture shows it above the bottom of the tank. Glad to here the bubble is no trouble in the filter.
One source demanded the pre-filter to be vertical to eliminate the bubble. He claimed it would make the pump noisy.
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[EagleMark]

I moved your post as it deserves it's own thread. And very nice work!

I've never noticed a difference because of a bubble? It's just a small bubble inside top of filter. Not like it's a aerated foaming action...

If you read directions on the Carter p5000 or 5001 external pump it does not have to be mounted below tank. That is just optimum position for a fuel pump and has spread through internet like gospel truth. IIRC directions say no more then 18 inches above tank! Usually theres no reason to go that high as top of tank is fine. Biggest issue is no suction leaks between tank and pump or it will suck air. Clogged sock in tank makes it suck air or collapse line, clogged pre filter as I showed in other thread will also make a external pump noisier. As soon as my son pulled in the shop I heard the pump louder and went straight to the clear pre pump filter.

[PJG1173]

hey that looks pretty slick. Is that a toyota axle? what is that in?

I've never heard of a bubble making the pump noisy. pumps are usually mounted level with the top of the tank or below to help prime the pump. Ive put them as much as 20" above the tank with no issues.

[dyeager535]

If you don't mind....what tool did you use to make the lines, and what kind of steel line did you use? I've heard sometimes the seams split when flaring.

I think I've resigned myself to buying the flaring tool for the o-rings, using -AN is about the same cost, and requires more connections unless I start cutting the factory flex lines, which I dislike doing.

I've seen tools that claim to do the flares for about $90, which if I did two vehicles would be worth it. Unless you want to rent yours out. :)

[Six_Shooter]

This is the flaring tool I have, I have not pulled my manual flaring tools out of my tool box after getting this one. It's been a very worthwhile investment. There are cheaper sources for it, they all seem to be the same parts just with someone else's sticker on it. I'm probably going to sell my manual flaring tools now.

http://www.mactools.com/shoponline/product/tabid/120/p-318195-universal-hydraulic-flaring-tool-set.aspx

[EagleMark]

That's way nicer then mine that only does flares and swags. But mine has done well. If it's got decent dies and you use some oil they will not split, do them dry and they split.

Does that one do the O ring GM fittings too? Man they look like they'd be hard...

[dyeager535]

Yes, can't quite justify the expense of that kit like I can a plasma cutter. :) I fully intend to use it on exactly two vehicles, and then perhaps random repairs from then on out, but very infrequent.

If you don't mind, and you want to get rid of the manual stuff, PM me and let me know what tool you have, and how much you want for it! I'm not in a big hurry, but always on the lookout to save a few bucks!

[POZE]

The tool Six_Shooter is showing works great and it is the only tool I know of to form the GM o-ring end. It does not form the line perfect and it tends to pinch the o-ring but I haven't had any leaks. Another option is most parts stores sell the o-ring tubing repair kits that are about 16" long. They come with compression fittings that I throw away. A better connection is double flare using an inverted union. I think Mastercool sells the hydraulic flare tool for about $300. Mine is Snap-On and i don't want to remember what I paid for it.

[Six_Shooter]

Mine is Snap-On and i don't want to remember what I paid for it.

I'm in the same boat, I know I got a good deal on it, comparative to full MAC pricing, but still would rather not remember. LOL

The Saginaw flares (AKA "GM flares") I have done with it have been great.

The flares are always done right, the first time.

the best part is that because it's hydraulic, you can use it in places that a conventional flaring tool would not fit. For instance, about a week and a half ago, I flared a transmission cooling line on a 2000 Yukon, where the flare itself was located pretty much just below the crank pulley, a conventional flaring tool would have not worked well in that area.

[POZE]

Mine has been used enough to be rebuilt one. Hydraulic leak = $100 wallet leak.