Intro: Chevy 350 TBI in a 1993 S10 4x4, tuning the bugs out

[Coopesam]

With TPRT you have the means to make changes to the bin but do you have the hardware to burn a new chip or perhaps emulate the changes? The link I posted, requires you go to the line address in a hex editor and change the bit to whatever the notes in the xdf tells you to change it to. From there you burn a new chip or upload the new bin to your emulation hardware.

My search tip if the forum search doesn't give you stellar results is to type this in your favorite search engine: site:gearhead-efi.com followed by whatever search term you're looking for. You can do this for any other site, too. i.e. site:thirdgen.org

I appreciate the search advice. I guess I knew about the site specific searching on google from work, but I never applied it to home research. Thanks.

After reading theough that link you posted, it’s almost certainly the solution to this issue. Unfortunately I don’t have the hardware to read/edit/emulate my EPROM yet. I had a chance to interact with the Moates reader/writer before drivin the Blazer back from Houston reading 3 or 4 of the BIN’s we had access to. I’m trying to figure out what the best hardware to purchase will be, since I think emulating may make tweaking the tune a bit easier, but just replacing the EPROM in the MEMCAL with a new EEPROM and using the adapter and a stock BIN would be pretty easy. Issue is I definitely don’t know the ins and outs of tuning a car or even how to manipulate the BIN files.

The tune definitely needs adjusting, since it is my daily driver andthe motor basically won’t go until it’s warm. It’s really a problem every morning that it nearly stalls at he first 3 traffic lights with my foot on the gas. As for what knock sensor I’m using, I’m not sure. We pieced this swap together using old parts-box parts, so there’s no saying what this knock sensor came off of. I know it’s working, at least somewhat, since it was counting up to 40,000 when I had a header collector bolt come out. I still have a little bit of an exhaust leak (short tube S10 swap headers), but now that the collectors are on tighter the counts are down below 200. I’m pretty sure most, if not all, of the remaining counts are erroneous, but they are probably causing a few degrees of knock retard nonetheless.

Things I’m hoping to know very soon are fuel pressure at idle and while driving, to get the knock retard read out corrected, and how to get the EGR to function properly. I have somewhat strict emissions where I’m at so I need to get that back in, but it seems like as soon as I wire up the EGR solenoid (brand new) the motor runs like garbage no matter what state it’s in. The valve itself is not new, but it doesn’t seem to blackened up and I can actuate it in and out with my mouth. For now I’ve left the vacuum disconnected and have blown the valve down all the way and capped the vacuum tube in order to troubleshoot everything else. I am suspicious that maybe the return spring is no good or I have the wrong pinout for the solenoid. Additionally, I guess it’s possible it could be a problem in the chip causing these issues.