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Thread: New to GearHead EFI Looking for a little help with Bin File

  1. #16
    Fuel Injected!
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    Quote Originally Posted by only_1 View Post
    Thank you for confirming I am not just crazy. My tuner was very happy with the results. I told him I was less than impressed.
    I am not either. I have a freshened up 290K mile 305 from a 96 Express van in a 99 Tahoe that is making 260 rwhp/280 rwtq with a 218/218 @ .050 Lunati flat tappet cam, the crappy stock Vortec intake manifold and fuel system on it. Somehow amazingly it has the stock spider in it and it is still working. Pulls like a freight train from 3,500-5,800.
    Last edited by Fast355; 1 Week Ago at 09:51 AM.

  2. #17
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    He said he set it at 19 degrees across the board.
    This sounds very, very wrong. The spark curve should look roughly like the torque curve. 360 tq is within reason imo. The intake is going to show more loss at top end. Are you going to try taking over the tuning yourself?

  3. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by 1project2many View Post
    This sounds very, very wrong. The spark curve should look roughly like the torque curve. 360 tq is within reason imo. The intake is going to show more loss at top end. Are you going to try taking over the tuning yourself?
    Correct. Fairly quick advance rate up to about 24 by 2,400 through peak torque, then it should level off and slightly advance to maximum value of ~28-32 above peak HP. Correctly timed that cam should make peak torque around 3,500 and peak HP around 5K.

  4. #19
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    This is what I was using for 91+ octane fuel running a Vortec 350 with a GM LT1 F-car cam, 1.6 rockers, and long tube headers pulling around a 1999 Suburban with 3.73 gears and a GM 4.3 torque converter stalling around 2,800 rpm. I had 6K behind that Suburban more than once and it pulled a trailer on a hot day without knock retard. At the converter flash speed of 2,800 rpm at WOT I was already at 28* timing.

    0-80 mph on an uphill on-ramp on a hot summer night.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LYdyu501Z4Y
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by Fast355; 1 Week Ago at 10:18 AM.

  5. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by 1project2many View Post
    This sounds very, very wrong. The spark curve should look roughly like the torque curve. 360 tq is within reason imo. The intake is going to show more loss at top end. Are you going to try taking over the tuning yourself?
    Yeah, I need to get this sorted out. I bought the Autoprom and AFR to do tune and datalogging. I am not sure if I should just start with the current chip and tune from there, or if I should scrap my $600 tune and start from someone else who has a similar setup? I was hoping someone had a similar setup that I could start from.

    Either way I will modify from data.

  6. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by only_1 View Post
    Yeah, I need to get this sorted out. I bought the Autoprom and AFR to do tune and datalogging. I am not sure if I should just start with the current chip and tune from there, or if I should scrap my $600 tune and start from someone else who has a similar setup? I was hoping someone had a similar setup that I could start from.

    Either way I will modify from data.
    Start from scratch, IMO. No telling what was modified or messed up. Start with my spark table, remove about 6* from the whole table until you can verify the fueling and knock retard. Then slowly bring in more timing as needed. Multiply your MAP and TPS AE by 1.5 as a starting point to fight lean pops and backfiring. Calculate your injector flow rate and put the value into the constant. Then tune your VEs. Once you get the engine running halfway decent you can play with your transmission shifting and torque converter. I would however set your trans line pressure to equal the Zero MPH line pressure values across the whole MPH table. Zero MPH line pressure is always higher on the TBIs than any other MPH.
    Last edited by Fast355; 1 Week Ago at 10:27 AM.

  7. #22
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    I will do as you suggest.
    Looking at the fuel injector calculator on WitchHunter's site, it would seem I need around 100 lb/hr of injector output. Do you feel this is about right?
    Between all the hard parts I have sitting around, I can get to about any injector rate. The company that tuned my truck put in my 11 psi spring with one of my smaller injectors so they are probably around 62 lb/hr. I have another set that put out 75 lb/hr at 11 psi. I also have a few springs, 13 psi, 14, psi, 18 psi, and an adjustable regulator. The larger injectors with the 18 psi spring puts my rate near 96 lb/hr. I can use my adjustable base to bump up from there if needed.
    Funny part is looking at the same calculator on WitchHunter's site given my current injector and pressure it suggests it should make near 230 hp crank. Really not too far off looking at the dyno sheet.

  8. #23
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    Consider yourself fortunate, I just spent 4 grand and have a pile of trash... lesson learned.. there's a reason why OBD1 is dead.

    Moates system for sale if you want it. lol complete with g2 thing.

  9. #24
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    I saw your post. I would have bought that from you. My autoprom just arrived yesterday. Did you ever confirm it was a mechanical problem or tune?
    Seems like it was a mechanical assembly problem to bend valves. Nice part is these TBI's pull out pretty quickly if you want to redo it.

  10. #25
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    wish I could.. we just spent the better part of a month carefully installing, painting, cleaning, brakes..yada..

  11. #26
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    Everyone's correct you need to see what your spark table has in it.
    Looking at you Dyno graph your W.O.T. AFR's are too lean. I'd recommend getting more fuel into it before you starting too much W.O.T. tuning.
    Raising your fuel pressure is a quick way to do it but that adds fuel everywhere, assuming you can maintain enough W.O.T. fuel pressure you can effectively add or remove fuel by altering your VE table but you need to base your changes off data logging from test drives in your vehicle.
    Logging with a Wideband O2 sensor will give you some good info about your AFR's, even if you can't initially get Wideband data into actual logs you can get a passenger to keep an eye on the gauge as you carefully drive at W.O.T. (that what a Dyno does but without the vehicle moving).

  12. #27
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    I pulled the chip, and put it in the ZIF socket in my auto prom. I used the flash & burn software and read the chip that was in the truck. I saved that bin file to my pc. I then opened up TunerPro RT and looked at the file. It appears blank. Everything is 0'd out. I must have done something wrong with this hardware/software. Just not sure what yet.

  13. #28
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  14. #29
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    That is embarassing. Since my Laptop with Tunerpro is at my shop. What does the PE adder table look like?

  15. #30
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