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Thread: New to GearHead EFI Looking for a little help with Bin File

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  1. #1
    Fuel Injected!
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    New to GearHead EFI Looking for a little help with Bin File

    I put a fresh engine in my truck then made the mistake of paying someone to tune it. They had it for 2.5 weeks and now it might make stock TBI power.

    The computer in the truck is a 16196395 BJLH
    Truck is a 1994 Chevrolet Blazer 5.7 TBI with 4L60E

    New Engine is a 1997 Chevrolet Vortec 5.7L
    Bored 0.020 over.
    1.5:1 Long Slot Rockers
    Cam Comp 08-304-8 Hydraulic Roller
    -114 Lobe Separation
    -Advertised 266/276
    -210/220 @ 0.050
    -Valve Lift 0.50/0.51
    -Lobe Lift 0.334/0.342
    LS3 Springs
    LS7 Lifters
    Comp Retainers and Clips
    Rocker Screw in Studs
    9.5:1 Compression Ratio
    Short Headers

    454 TBI on top of it.
    Currently running 68 lb/hr injectors @13 psi, with 15 PSI Fuel Pressure, Tuner had dropped it to under 11.
    I have 454 injectors 81 lb/hr injectors @ 13 psi. I had both sets cleaned and flow checked.
    I have an adjustable fuel pressure regulator, and an assortment of springs. So I am happy to change any of these factors if it helps me to get the truck running better.

    Thanks in advance for your help!

  2. #2
    Fuel Injected!
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    I don't know if it makes a difference, but I went with Moates APU1, and an AEM AFR gage to output the readings for data logging. I should be able to post my current file after the AutoProm is delivered tomorrow.
    It also has an EP381 fuel pump out of a vortec in it, so I should have plenty of pressure and flow for whatever suggestions you may have.

  3. #3
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    This is a strong low-end cam although it's likely to be hurt by a stock heated TBI intake. What is your truck running for gears and converter?

  4. #4
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    The truck has 3.73 rear end gears. Converter is a 2200 stall.
    The intake is a heated GMPP intake. Bored to match throttle body, 50mm roughly per bore. I wanted to do this so that I can drive it during the winter. I could switch it to a Edelbrock performer. But even with this intake, it should make more power than it is.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by only_1 View Post
    The truck has 3.73 rear end gears. Converter is a 2200 stall.
    The intake is a heated GMPP intake. Bored to match throttle body, 50mm roughly per bore. I wanted to do this so that I can drive it during the winter. I could switch it to a Edelbrock performer. But even with this intake, it should make more power than it is.
    I have seen that intake bored to 2" with a 454 TBI in a 4x4 K1500 on an engine that put down ~250 rwhp. That intake falls on its face around the 250-270 rwhp range even bored but you are by no means close to making that happen.

    If your truck is a 2wd with a 700r4 and 7.5" 10-bolt you are more like 18% loss in HP. Torque loss is proportional to RPM and you will lose less % in torque. You might have 20% loss with a mechanical engine fan and unlocked torque converter. I am probably only around 30% loss with my 1-ton driveline.
    Last edited by Fast355; 1 Week Ago at 08:49 AM.

  6. #6
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    I can say one thing for sure, something is definately up with your setup or tune. When the problem is corrected it will put a huge grin on your face. Your current setup is falling on its face faster than a stock TBI engine with headers and not making near the torque.

    These graphs were from my old 83 G20 with a GM 1-ton L05 crate engine. First dyno was mostly stock with headers, 2nd dyno had 1.6 roller rockers, Z/28 valve sprongs, intake manifold, and 454 TBI.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  7. #7
    Fuel Injected!
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fast355 View Post
    I have seen that intake bored to 2" with a 454 TBI in a 4x4 K1500 on an engine that put down ~250 rwhp. That intake falls on its face around the 250-270 rwhp range even bored but you are by no means close to making that happen.

    If your truck is a 2wd with a 700r4 and 7.5" 10-bolt you are more like 18% loss in HP. Torque loss is proportional to RPM and you will lose less % in torque. You might have 20% loss with a mechanical engine fan and unlocked torque converter. I am probably only around 30% loss with my 1-ton driveline.
    Yeah, its the light 1/2 ton driveline though it is 4wd, 10 bolt, small drums etc. Mechanical fan, and unlocked converter.

  8. #8
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    I was just hoping for something like 360 crank/275 rwhp with this setup. I am not expecting it to make 400 whp or anything crazy. Its something I like to drive to work, and occasionally pull a trailer with.
    My old engine was just wearing out, lower hot oil pressure, no power; so I got the vortec.

  9. #9
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  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by only_1 View Post
    That is painful! 1 ton 8.75:1 TBI 350 in my 83 G20 Van with 1.6 roller rockers, tri-y headers, 3" single exhaust, edelbrock performer rpm intake, 2" marine TBI unit and adapter put down 200 rwhp and 300 rwtq.

    My Express van with basically a 300 hp Marine L31 350 with 2.02/1.60 valves and milled 906 Vortec heads put down 230 rwhp @ 4,400 and 303 rwtq @ 3,400 through a 4L85E and 9.5" 14-bolt despite having weak valve springs and less than optimal spark advance. That was with the tiny GM 196/206 @ 0.050 marine cam and 1.7 rockers. Springs were so weak changing them out for LS6 springs and Comp 787 retainers bumped me to 257 rwhp @ 4,800 and 310 rwtq @ 3,200. I added a flex fuel sensor and tuned it on E85. 272 rwhp @ 4,700 and 325 rwtq @ 2,900. Even with the 1.7 rockers my cam was still shorter duration than yours.

    What is the exhaust like after those headers? What about the air filter side of things? What kind of timing advance values are you running. What is the Base timing? It is running really lean in that graph as well.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fast355 View Post
    That is painful! 1 ton 8.75:1 TBI 350 in my 83 G20 Van with 1.6 roller rockers, tri-y headers, 3" single exhaust, edelbrock performer rpm intake, 2" marine TBI unit and adapter put down 200 rwhp and 300 rwtq.

    My Express van with basically a 300 hp Marine L31 350 with 2.02/1.60 valves and milled 906 Vortec heads put down 230 rwhp @ 4,400 and 303 rwtq @ 3,400 through a 4L85E and 9.5" 14-bolt despite having weak valve springs and less than optimal spark advance. That was with the tiny GM 196/206 @ 0.050 marine cam and 1.7 rockers. Springs were so weak changing them out for LS6 springs and Comp 787 retainers bumped me to 257 rwhp @ 4,800 and 310 rwtq @ 3,200. I added a flex fuel sensor and tuned it on E85. 272 rwhp @ 4,700 and 325 rwtq @ 2,900. Even with the 1.7 rockers my cam was still shorter duration than yours.

    What is the exhaust like after those headers? What about the air filter side of things? What kind of timing advance values are you running. What is the Base timing? It is running really lean in that graph as well.
    After the headers I have a Magnaflow Y Pipe, and Flowmaster catback. All 3" mandrel. I ran an exhaust back pressure gage at the header and its readings are flat. The exhaust isn't limiting me right now at all.
    Air filter I have a 3" tall 14" diameter round open element.
    I don't know timing as I had paid someone to tune it. He said he set it at 19 degrees across the board. I am hoping he was not serious, though I think he was.
    Base timing is still 0.
    Yeah it is running lean. The tuner dropped the fuel pressure down to stock tbi. He didn't like the increased fuel pressure it had when I brought it in.

  12. #12
    Fuel Injected!
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    Consider yourself fortunate, I just spent 4 grand and have a pile of trash... lesson learned.. there's a reason why OBD1 is dead.

    Moates system for sale if you want it. lol complete with g2 thing.

  13. #13
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    I saw your post. I would have bought that from you. My autoprom just arrived yesterday. Did you ever confirm it was a mechanical problem or tune?
    Seems like it was a mechanical assembly problem to bend valves. Nice part is these TBI's pull out pretty quickly if you want to redo it.

  14. #14
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    wish I could.. we just spent the better part of a month carefully installing, painting, cleaning, brakes..yada..

  15. #15
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    Everyone's correct you need to see what your spark table has in it.
    Looking at you Dyno graph your W.O.T. AFR's are too lean. I'd recommend getting more fuel into it before you starting too much W.O.T. tuning.
    Raising your fuel pressure is a quick way to do it but that adds fuel everywhere, assuming you can maintain enough W.O.T. fuel pressure you can effectively add or remove fuel by altering your VE table but you need to base your changes off data logging from test drives in your vehicle.
    Logging with a Wideband O2 sensor will give you some good info about your AFR's, even if you can't initially get Wideband data into actual logs you can get a passenger to keep an eye on the gauge as you carefully drive at W.O.T. (that what a Dyno does but without the vehicle moving).

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