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Thread: Uber-easy DIY USB ALDL Cable

  1. #61
    EFI GearHead ! EagleMark's Avatar
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    You should build cables and advertise here?

    1990 Chevy Suburban 5.7L Auto ECM 1227747 $42!
    1998 Chevy Silverado 5.7L Vortec 0411 Swap to RoadRunner!
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  2. #62
    Fuel Injected! shimniok's Avatar
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    Okey doke... I broke out my o-scope to look at waveforms, looked fine whether vehicle running or not so that wasn't the problem. I thought it'd be interesting to try and buffer the signal with a PNP and was able to look at waveforms in that case. There may be a ground issue at play but need to investigate further and eliminate loose wiring. :) I was able to collect data during idle for about 30 seconds before TunerPro reported a data error (loose wiring, probably).

    EDIT: it was a ground issue. Fixed. Data logging works at idle and engine off. Was able to collect about 3 minutes so far. Will have to test long term once I get this thing on the road. Wouldn't be too hard or costly to build my own circuit board.

    Once the truck warmed up it was idling all on its own (not well, but still...) Pretty happy about that! Clearly open loop is whacked out. But this means idle is approximately stable enough to permit me to check and adjust timing. Whew.

    I'm relying on Scott for the Autoprom emulator/burner until I can scratch together enough money for one of my own. I want to look into what it'd take to make my own emulator (or more precisely, some device that would permit near real-time bin changes). But all that's off topic.

    Scott pointed me to this as a start for a DIY cable: http://www.aldlcable.com/sc/details.asp?item=daewoo

    Pretty cheap too, all things considered.
    Last edited by shimniok; 08-29-2012 at 12:46 PM.

  3. #63
    That cable is just for the CABLE. No transistors or circuit inside to allow it to talk to the laptop or ECM.

    The best setup for real-time emulation is the AutoProm that Scott has. The only reason I got rid of mine was because it can't burn the big chip that I am now using to stack multiple files on. Otherwise, it's an excellent device to allow emulation AND datalogging at the same time.

    I'm tired of experimenting with the FTDI chips. I think I'm just going to order a cable from Moates.
    Familiar with 1227747 and 16197427 PCMs

  4. #64
    Fuel Injected! phonedawgz's Avatar
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    I do sell USB to ALDL cables for less.

    http://reddevilriver.com/aldl.html

    Y
    es it works out of the box.

    Yes it is based on the FT232RL chip

    Yes it works for both Pin E 160 Baud and Pin M 8192 Baud

    It is available in both 12 pin and 16 pin (OBD2 type) connectors, and also in a bare pin format.
    Last edited by phonedawgz; 08-29-2012 at 12:20 PM.

  5. #65
    Fuel Injected! shimniok's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by FSJ Guy View Post
    That cable is just for the CABLE. No transistors or circuit inside to allow it to talk to the laptop or ECM.
    Yes, I know. :) Hence a "start" of a DIY cable. :) Sorry for the confusion. What I meant was, you start with that handy cable, then add the FTDI stuff. I'm still working on what that stuff would be. :)

    But, if you have the money to spare, IIWY I'd get some form of ALDL / USB cable pre-made like the one phonedawgz sells. Avoid the headaches.

  6. #66
    EFI GearHead ! EagleMark's Avatar
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    Playing with cables and making cool stuff on the bench is fun. But if you want to record data and tune cars then cables are cheap tool!

    Trying to get RedRiver to advertise here so we have good cables and someone involved to help with projects like this...

    1990 Chevy Suburban 5.7L Auto ECM 1227747 $42!
    1998 Chevy Silverado 5.7L Vortec 0411 Swap to RoadRunner!
    -= =-

  7. #67
    Quote Originally Posted by shimniok View Post
    Yes, I know. :) Hence a "start" of a DIY cable. :) Sorry for the confusion. What I meant was, you start with that handy cable, then add the FTDI stuff. I'm still working on what that stuff would be. :)

    But, if you have the money to spare, IIWY I'd get some form of ALDL / USB cable pre-made like the one phonedawgz sells. Avoid the headaches.
    If you're going to do a DIY cable, you don't really need the ALDL plug. Just tap right into the wiring harness. The ALDL plug allows you to carry the cable to different vehicles. If you don't need that feature, wire it up yourself and just use the USB connector to plug and unplug it.
    Familiar with 1227747 and 16197427 PCMs

  8. #68
    Fuel Injected! supercoop's Avatar
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    thanks for sharing Robert, i will have to order one an try it out.

  9. #69
    Fuel Injected! supercoop's Avatar
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    would you look this over an see if my thinking is correct.

    with the Uber-easy DIY USB ALDL Cable posted: RobertISaar

    for 8192 applications

    connect the RXD and TXD pins together(solder would be the preferred method), then connect that circuit to the ALDL pin M, then connect the ground pin on the converter board to the ground pin in the ALDL connector (pin A).

    for 160 baud applications

    You do not have to have TX and RX tied together. all you need is the receive part of the circuit, since it doesn't communicate in both directions.
    so just connect the RXD pin to the ALDL pin E , then connect the ground pin on the converter board to the ground pin in the ALDL connector (pin A).

    an set the voltage jumper setting to 5V, 3.3V might work, but it might also cause more problems.

    .In TunerPro RT, set it to 4800 baud and uncheck RS232 echo and it should started acquiring data,

    looking at the picture of the board ,i see there is allready a jumper across the TXD an RXD pins.
    these are the pins you would connect the M terminal to, for 8192
    or remove jumper an connect the E terminal to, RXD for 160 , Correct?

  10. #70
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    could leave the jumper there, it won't hurt anything, and you'll retain 8192 capability.
    1995 Chevrolet Monte Carlo LS 3100 + 4T60E


  11. #71
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    Quote Originally Posted by RobertISaar View Post
    IIRC, the only thing the 7427 uses the ALDL pin B is for blinking out codes if connected directly to ground.

    i'm not a 7427 expert though.
    Does the 7427 reset/"zero" the IAC when pin B is grounded, or is that just the earlier ECM's?

  12. #72
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    good question, one i can't answer though.

    if someone had a bench setup, then it would be very easy to test, otherwise, you might need to monitor the IAC movement manually, preferably without the pintle shooting off.
    1995 Chevrolet Monte Carlo LS 3100 + 4T60E


  13. #73
    Fuel Injected! PJG1173's Avatar
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    neither my 8625 or 7427 zero out the IAC when jumpered. what I have done is to use jumper wires to the IAC to send the pintle to its seat. also setting the park position to 0 in the bin will put it to what it thinks is zero.
    87 4Runner, 15" spring lift, 3" body, chevy vortec 355, 5.29 gears, 38.5x15.5x15" Boggers, 280hr, 16168625 running $0D
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  14. #74
    Fuel Injected! phonedawgz's Avatar
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    You have to send a series of rotating/reversing electrical signals to move a stepper motor (IAC). You can't just jumper power to it.

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t-3Vn...eature=related
    Last edited by phonedawgz; 09-05-2012 at 10:32 AM.

  15. #75

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