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Thread: Uber-easy DIY USB ALDL Cable

  1. #31
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    another WIN for the DIY'er.
    1995 Chevrolet Monte Carlo LS 3100 + 4T60E


  2. #32
    Fuel Injected! kunsan1987's Avatar
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    Well the cp2102 does NOT work and i already had a prolific 2303 so i tried it and was able to get 3 lines of raw data with winaldl and no other data at all.So i'm off to buy a ft232rl.

  3. #33
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    can't say i didn't predict this. when it comes to 8192, FT232R products are where it's at.
    1995 Chevrolet Monte Carlo LS 3100 + 4T60E


  4. #34
    Fuel Injected! kunsan1987's Avatar
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    Got one at frys-osepp ftdi breakout board #ftd-01 header socket and solder tabs.it works great with winaldl,but it wont work with tunerpro RT yet>i'll figure it out(already tried recomendations in the other thread).but i'm happy now

  5. #35
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    http://www.ebay.com/itm/FT232RL-USB-...item2a1cc9e46a

    another potential option. the way the listing is written, it may convert to RS232 specs, which is not the easy method as decribed before, but would work if using something to convert RS232 to TTL (MAX232, similar).

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/FT232RL-USB2...item3cc6439e15

    probably a winner, USB to TTL. not sure about the 3.3 to 5 volt setup, not really clear on it in the description. looks like the little pads that seem like they're missing a component would be soldered together to cause 5V?

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/Arduino-FT23...item3cbfdfc861

    and the most current link for the one i bought before. price seems to have jumped a little. went from 8.80 to 10.80, free shipping in both. still an excellent price, IMO.
    1995 Chevrolet Monte Carlo LS 3100 + 4T60E


  6. #36
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    Alright Robert, I took the plunge and ordered 2 of the FT232R setups. 1 to mount permanently and another to make a cable to be used universally. I made the 2-transistor style cable a few days ago but haven't been able to locate a laptop with a serial connection and I'll be damned if I spend $40 for a serial-to-usb converter when I can build USB dedicated cheaper! KUDOS on the find! I will take pics and post the write up, giving you credit of course, if you don't mind.

    On a side note, this will be my first real attempt at datalogging. The serial cable hooked to the desktop under my work bench doesn't really reflect on-the-road conditions. I have a 91 4.3L out of an S-10 transplanted into my 93 Jeep Wrangler (all wiring intact) except it has 2001 Vortec heads (so Edelbrock intake and NO EGR) and Edelbrock headers. My goal here is to log data to see if my only tuning problem is the EGR and either have a chip burnt or buy the MOATES APU1 and do it myself. I ran WINALDL but it didn't give me the info I was really looking for so I am now running Tunerpro RT. I would really love to learn this system. I have an AutoTap also for OBD2 that I picked up on Craigslist for next to nothing but have yet to use it

    Any suggestions on a route to take for programming?

  7. #37
    If you're going to use your DIY cable, you really don't NEED an AutoProm unless you want to emulate at the same time. The Burn2 will work just fine for burning new chips.
    Familiar with 1227747 and 16197427 PCMs

  8. #38
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    That is where another of my problems lie. I am new to this and want to learn of quickly. What quicker way to learn than see changes effective immediately. On the other side I want to keep it cheap. *rock and a hard place*

  9. #39
    My truck has stopped running 2 out of the past 3 times I've driven it with the adapter from Sparkfun.

    http://www.sparkfun.com/products/8165

    T
    his is only change I've made to my system.

    When the engine dies, oddly enough the Check Engine light DOES NOT come on. And I'm able to restart immediately without any problems.

    ???
    Familiar with 1227747 and 16197427 PCMs

  10. #40
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    hmm..... this is a first.

    i've never had any issues like that with mine.
    1995 Chevrolet Monte Carlo LS 3100 + 4T60E


  11. #41
    I'm wondering if I jiggled some other wires when I did it. Probably just a coincidence....
    Familiar with 1227747 and 16197427 PCMs

  12. #42
    Super Moderator Six_Shooter's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by crash8212 View Post
    Alright Robert, I took the plunge and ordered 2 of the FT232R setups. 1 to mount permanently and another to make a cable to be used universally. I made the 2-transistor style cable a few days ago but haven't been able to locate a laptop with a serial connection and I'll be damned if I spend $40 for a serial-to-usb converter when I can build USB dedicated cheaper! KUDOS on the find! I will take pics and post the write up, giving you credit of course, if you don't mind.

    On a side note, this will be my first real attempt at datalogging. The serial cable hooked to the desktop under my work bench doesn't really reflect on-the-road conditions. I have a 91 4.3L out of an S-10 transplanted into my 93 Jeep Wrangler (all wiring intact) except it has 2001 Vortec heads (so Edelbrock intake and NO EGR) and Edelbrock headers. My goal here is to log data to see if my only tuning problem is the EGR and either have a chip burnt or buy the MOATES APU1 and do it myself. I ran WINALDL but it didn't give me the info I was really looking for so I am now running Tunerpro RT. I would really love to learn this system. I have an AutoTap also for OBD2 that I picked up on Craigslist for next to nothing but have yet to use it

    Any suggestions on a route to take for programming?
    If you're buying/making the datalogging cable, you can use an Ostrich 2.0, along with the datalogging cable, to have real time emulation. You can then use a BURN2 to program an EPROM when you're happy with the tune, or you can use the Ostrich as a permanent replacement for the EPROM.

    The APU1, has the EPROM Emulator, datalogging cable and programmer all built into one device. The one nice that that the APU1 has that going the seperates route doesn't is the 3 extra channels that can be datalogged.
    The man who says something is impossible, is usually interrupted by the man doing it.

  13. #43
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    http://www.dealextreme.com/p/usb-to-...863?r=99999999

    another potential and ridiculously cheap USB-TTL converter.... it's not FTDI based though, so whether it works with 8192 baud or not is questionable.
    1995 Chevrolet Monte Carlo LS 3100 + 4T60E


  14. #44
    Fuel Injected! phonedawgz's Avatar
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    The PL2303HX chip is 3.3 to 1.8 on it's TTL output only, so there is no chance of it working for an ALDL cable.

    I have tried with the 5v version of the PL2303 (PL2303H) but have not had success.

    http://prolificusa.com/docs/2303/all...guide_v10B.pdf

    T
    o pre-answer the question - many of the boards that use these chips are designed to work with multiple versions of the chips. While the board shows a 5v output, and I think the chip might even offers a 5v power output, the TTL interface is the 3.3v version.
    Last edited by phonedawgz; 08-12-2012 at 11:04 PM.

  15. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by RobertISaar View Post
    with the one i posted:

    connect the RXD and TXD pins together(solder would be my method), then connect that circuit to the ALDL pin M, then connect the ground pin on the converter to the ground pin in the ALDL connector (pin A).

    it's that simple.
    What do you do with pin B on the ALDL connector?

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