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Thread: Uber-easy DIY USB ALDL Cable

  1. #316
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    hi, I built a similar cable and it works on WinALDL but I cannot get it working with other soft (TunerPro ...)
    what am I doing wrong ?
    thanks for the feedback

  2. #317
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    if it works with other software, then you're down to a configuration or file presence issue. do you have the correct ADX loaded for the car you're dealing with? do you have the correct COM port selected from within the Tunerpro Preference menu?
    1995 Chevrolet Monte Carlo LS 3100 + 4T60E


  3. #318
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    Quote Originally Posted by pbob65 View Post
    hi, I built a similar cable and it works on WinALDL but I cannot get it working with other soft (TunerPro ...)
    what am I doing wrong ?
    thanks for the feedback
    Some links that may be of help

    http://ls1tech.com/forums/lt1-lt4-mo...-tutorial.html

    http://www.gearhead-efi.com/Fuel-Inj...-and-Tutorials

  4. #319
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    The cheapest I found is here.

    http://www.aliexpress.com/item/new-1pcs-Replacement-Remote-Control-For-Panasonic-3D-TV-N2QAYB000659-free-shipping/32503962227.html


    I will order some and post result.


    I also found this. How do you think will this work with a true serial port.

    http://www.aliexpress.com/item/MAX32...867498167.html

  5. #320
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    Hoping someone can help me with some troubleshooting. Just got the USB to serial adapter last Friday and built my harness and tried it out over the weekend with mostly failed results.

    Here's the exact one I bought: http://www.ebay.com/itm/360871019374?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageNa me=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

    I followed the simple instructions from the original post on this thread, used no diodes or resistors, just connected the Tx and Dx together and plugged that into my 8192 terminal (terminal "M" on my OBD1 12 pin port) and the ground to the ground terminal (terminal "A").

    Real quick, the car I'm working on is my 1994 Cadillac Fleetwood w/ LT1.

    When the FT232RL chip is plugged into just the car, both the tx and dx leds light up constantly with the car on (actually they appear to blink rapidly, but fast enough that they appear to be solid on).

    If I'm plugged into the laptop via USB the lights will blink when it's first plugged in and being recognized, and if I try to connect to it from any software. However if I connect it to both the car and the laptop, it mostly ceases to function.

    So let's run down quick what I've done so far: I've tried 3 different USB cables, I've tried 2 different laptops running on a different OS (my current laptop running 64-bit Win7 and my old laptop running 32-bit WinXP), I've tried several different versions of the driver, I've built two different harnesses (my first was kind of weak sauce, just threw it together quick with stuff I had laying around so I could test it out first, I then built a second one with better wire and soldered all my connections to rule out that as the culprit) and I've tried several different tuning programs.

    I believe I have the correct files, I got my $EE file from, I can't remember now, it wasn't on here because I hadn't signed up for an account yet, possibly from the TunerPro website, but I may try downloading a different definition file from this site just to rule that out. I've attempted to connect using TunerPro RT, TunerCATS RT and Datamaster. TunerPro RT will recognize the adapter if it's not connected to the car once I select the correct COM and will pass the test every time. But once I connect to the car and attempt to acquire data, it insta-fails every time.

    TunerCATS RT has yet to have any luck connecting to it, but I've messed with that program the least so I'm not confident I'm doing it correctly on there. Datamaster seems to work until I actually try to record data. It will pass the test, or at least it was until last night. Now I get an unknown error when I test it, but that may be a driver issue. One of the last times I plugged it back into the laptop and it was being recognized it identified it as a Microsoft serial mouse and loaded new drivers for it, so I think I need to go back and wipe out all the drivers and try installing those again after a reboot. BTW, I'm primarily working from the old XP laptop since that one is smaller and easier to setup inside the car.

    Before I developed that issue though I was able to record data and have several sessions recorded both from the engine and trans and alternating between both, but during every session it would lose communication, wait for a few seconds and then re-establish the connection, work for a few seconds and then drop out again. And while some of the data it collected appears to be perfectly accurate such as RPMs and engine temps, other data is completely whack. When reviewing the one session where I actually drove around for a bit, there were times when my reported speed (in MPH) would jump to well over 100. Since I was driving in town on 25-35 mph speed limit streets, I wasn't going anywhere close to 100 or above.

    I also noticed there's a window in Datamaster that monitors DTCs, and it was randomly lighting up like a christmas tree and mostly didn't make any sense to me. I do get a couple recurring trouble codes, one from a steering sensor and one for interior lighting I think, I'd have to pull those from the HVAC unit to see which ones they are, but I've never put much effort into tracking them down since the car functions perfectly. No SES lights or any idiot lights ever come on and the only real problem it's ever had was when it dropped an O2 sensor last year which I replaced. I haven't replaced the other side yet cause they're kind of a pain in the butt to get out being a 20+ year old car with 130k miles on it and pretty much still 100% of it's original equipment still on it, things like that are a little rusty and little stubborn to remove. But it's on the agenda now that spring is coming.

    If anyone is interested, I can upload the sessions I saved from Datamaster and see if anything in there makes any sense or could point you in the direction of where my problems are originating from. But at this point it's just driving me nuts. One other thing I just remembered, it seems that whenever I'm plugged into both the laptop and the car, the LEDs will blink some for a little bit, but shortly after they go dark, which doesn't make sense if it's receiving data from the PCM, but as soon as I unplug the USB from the laptop, they light right back up. Maybe I just got a bad adapter? I don't really know how to check for that, but if anyone has any ideas, I'm all ears.

    If I missed any important info, ask and I'll provide what I can. I also have pictures of my adapter and the cable I made if anyone wants to rule those out as my culprit. Or maybe I'm just missing something simple and obvious, I'm experienced with the mechanical side of cars, and I'm even pretty good with electronics and computers, but engine tuning is well outside my normal wheelhouse so I freely admit to being a complete noob as far as that is concerned. I just remembered that at one point I even grabbed my phone and filmed datamaster for a few seconds so if anyone wants to see that I can upload it as well, because while I'm not up to snuff on the tuning stuff yet, what I was seeing on the screen while it was recording really seemed strange.

    I think that's enough rambling for the moment, again any ideas, questions, let me know. And if anyone wants pics, video or the datalogs I saved say so and I'll copy them over to this laptop and upload them.

    Thank you for any and all help.

  6. #321
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    Quote Originally Posted by schlicky13 View Post
    Hoping someone can help me with some troubleshooting. Just got the USB to serial adapter last Friday and built my harness and tried it out over the weekend with mostly failed results.

    Here's the exact one I bought: http://www.ebay.com/itm/360871019374?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageNa me=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

    I followed the simple instructions from the original post on this thread, used no diodes or resistors, just connected the Tx and Dx together and plugged that into my 8192 terminal (terminal "M" on my OBD1 12 pin port) and the ground to the ground terminal (terminal "A").

    Real quick, the car I'm working on is my 1994 Cadillac Fleetwood w/ LT1.

    When the FT232RL chip is plugged into just the car, both the tx and dx leds light up constantly with the car on (actually they appear to blink rapidly, but fast enough that they appear to be solid on).

    If I'm plugged into the laptop via USB the lights will blink when it's first plugged in and being recognized, and if I try to connect to it from any software. However if I connect it to both the car and the laptop, it mostly ceases to function.

    So let's run down quick what I've done so far: I've tried 3 different USB cables, I've tried 2 different laptops running on a different OS (my current laptop running 64-bit Win7 and my old laptop running 32-bit WinXP), I've tried several different versions of the driver, I've built two different harnesses (my first was kind of weak sauce, just threw it together quick with stuff I had laying around so I could test it out first, I then built a second one with better wire and soldered all my connections to rule out that as the culprit) and I've tried several different tuning programs.

    I believe I have the correct files, I got my $EE file from, I can't remember now, it wasn't on here because I hadn't signed up for an account yet, possibly from the TunerPro website, but I may try downloading a different definition file from this site just to rule that out. I've attempted to connect using TunerPro RT, TunerCATS RT and Datamaster. TunerPro RT will recognize the adapter if it's not connected to the car once I select the correct COM and will pass the test every time. But once I connect to the car and attempt to acquire data, it insta-fails every time.

    TunerCATS RT has yet to have any luck connecting to it, but I've messed with that program the least so I'm not confident I'm doing it correctly on there. Datamaster seems to work until I actually try to record data. It will pass the test, or at least it was until last night. Now I get an unknown error when I test it, but that may be a driver issue. One of the last times I plugged it back into the laptop and it was being recognized it identified it as a Microsoft serial mouse and loaded new drivers for it, so I think I need to go back and wipe out all the drivers and try installing those again after a reboot. BTW, I'm primarily working from the old XP laptop since that one is smaller and easier to setup inside the car.

    Before I developed that issue though I was able to record data and have several sessions recorded both from the engine and trans and alternating between both, but during every session it would lose communication, wait for a few seconds and then re-establish the connection, work for a few seconds and then drop out again. And while some of the data it collected appears to be perfectly accurate such as RPMs and engine temps, other data is completely whack. When reviewing the one session where I actually drove around for a bit, there were times when my reported speed (in MPH) would jump to well over 100. Since I was driving in town on 25-35 mph speed limit streets, I wasn't going anywhere close to 100 or above.

    I also noticed there's a window in Datamaster that monitors DTCs, and it was randomly lighting up like a christmas tree and mostly didn't make any sense to me. I do get a couple recurring trouble codes, one from a steering sensor and one for interior lighting I think, I'd have to pull those from the HVAC unit to see which ones they are, but I've never put much effort into tracking them down since the car functions perfectly. No SES lights or any idiot lights ever come on and the only real problem it's ever had was when it dropped an O2 sensor last year which I replaced. I haven't replaced the other side yet cause they're kind of a pain in the butt to get out being a 20+ year old car with 130k miles on it and pretty much still 100% of it's original equipment still on it, things like that are a little rusty and little stubborn to remove. But it's on the agenda now that spring is coming.

    If anyone is interested, I can upload the sessions I saved from Datamaster and see if anything in there makes any sense or could point you in the direction of where my problems are originating from. But at this point it's just driving me nuts. One other thing I just remembered, it seems that whenever I'm plugged into both the laptop and the car, the LEDs will blink some for a little bit, but shortly after they go dark, which doesn't make sense if it's receiving data from the PCM, but as soon as I unplug the USB from the laptop, they light right back up. Maybe I just got a bad adapter? I don't really know how to check for that, but if anyone has any ideas, I'm all ears.

    If I missed any important info, ask and I'll provide what I can. I also have pictures of my adapter and the cable I made if anyone wants to rule those out as my culprit. Or maybe I'm just missing something simple and obvious, I'm experienced with the mechanical side of cars, and I'm even pretty good with electronics and computers, but engine tuning is well outside my normal wheelhouse so I freely admit to being a complete noob as far as that is concerned. I just remembered that at one point I even grabbed my phone and filmed datamaster for a few seconds so if anyone wants to see that I can upload it as well, because while I'm not up to snuff on the tuning stuff yet, what I was seeing on the screen while it was recording really seemed strange.

    I think that's enough rambling for the moment, again any ideas, questions, let me know. And if anyone wants pics, video or the datalogs I saved say so and I'll copy them over to this laptop and upload them.

    Thank you for any and all help.
    After all that typing I figured I needed to say something!:-)

    FYI: I started this thread before I made my own cable:

    http://www.gearhead-efi.com/Fuel-Inj...(94-95-Camaro)

    To make a long story short I bought a couple clear top projects boxes, diodes, resistors, adapter, USB cable and ALDL male connector and assembled my own. The attached picture shows the connector and Radio Shack parts with numbers.

    The cable works great, I always read the VIN info to be sure the cable is working before doing any flashing. Had a 16188051 brick on me with my original cable but this forum has good thread that covers repairing the PCM by soldering in eeprom sockets.

    Ed

  7. #322
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    Quote Originally Posted by EDZIP View Post
    After all that typing I figured I needed to say something!:-)

    FYI: I started this thread before I made my own cable:

    http://www.gearhead-efi.com/Fuel-Inj...(94-95-Camaro)

    To make a long story short I bought a couple clear top projects boxes, diodes, resistors, adapter, USB cable and ALDL male connector and assembled my own. The attached picture shows the connector and Radio Shack parts with numbers.

    The cable works great, I always read the VIN info to be sure the cable is working before doing any flashing. Had a 16188051 brick on me with my original cable but this forum has good thread that covers repairing the PCM by soldering in eeprom sockets.

    Ed

    I appreciate the fast response. Hm, maybe I do need to add a diode to the circuit. I wondered about that, but I've also seen numerous posts from people claiming it wasn't needed, including the original post for this thread. I know that a resistor isn't needed in my application, I think only a handful of PCMs actually need that (the TPI motors come to mind) but I wasn't clear on the diode either way. Found people in various place around the internet claiming it was needed and others claiming it wasn't. I was able to read the VIN though, don't know why I bothered to try that but at some point I did and it pulled it up instantly.

    If I really do need to add a diode to get it to function properly, that slightly sucks. My local cell phone battery shop, I mean RadioShack, closed last year. No one else in town sells the little fiddly DIY electrical bits and pieces, at least not that I'm aware of. I can always ebay it, but then I have to wait probably a week by the time I get it, add it in to my harness and try again. Ah well, such is life. I suppose I could scavenge one, anybody have any idea where to look to find an appropriate diode? When it comes to electronics and car parts, I tend to be a little bit of a hoarder, never know what may come in handy. I've got old computers laying around, an old microwave I ripped apart, old car stereos and old home theater stuff. If someone can tell me how to identify what diode I want and where to find one, it'll give me something to do tonight.

    Clearly I'm bored and not busy tonight, so I may upload the stuff related to this which I previously mentioned, see what other ideas the collective community can come up with. Again, thank you for your input.

  8. #323
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    https://youtu.be/g85ubveHrVE

    Apparently I can't upload files so the datamaster logs will have to be uploaded elsewhere and then I can link them. But this quick vid will show what I was trying to explain. At least with datamaster I can get it to connect to the car and capture data, but it keeps dropping out, and I think a bunch of the data is just wonky anyways. I'll work on figuring out where to upload my recorded datalog sessions later. BTW if you notice it, ignore where it says Y-car, that was my bad. I could have sworn I switched that before I started, but apparently not. After attempting to log data a few times I noticed it, switched it to B-car and still had the exact same results. And I doubt that would have affected anything too seriously since they are the same PCM and very similar programming.

  9. #324
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    Quote Originally Posted by schlicky13 View Post
    https://youtu.be/g85ubveHrVE

    Apparently I can't upload files so the datamaster logs will have to be uploaded elsewhere and then I can link them. But this quick vid will show what I was trying to explain. At least with datamaster I can get it to connect to the car and capture data, but it keeps dropping out, and I think a bunch of the data is just wonky anyways. I'll work on figuring out where to upload my recorded datalog sessions later. BTW if you notice it, ignore where it says Y-car, that was my bad. I could have sworn I switched that before I started, but apparently not. After attempting to log data a few times I noticed it, switched it to B-car and still had the exact same results. And I doubt that would have affected anything too seriously since they are the same PCM and very similar programming.

    If you need a diode I can mail one...just replace it when you have the chance. I also have the diode/resistor (soldered together) that I removed from my old Red River cable you can have...Just PM your mailing address....

    In the meantime...anti virus, screen saver etc on your laptop kicking you off?

    Ed
    Last edited by EDZIP; 03-07-2016 at 08:30 PM.

  10. #325
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    Quote Originally Posted by EDZIP View Post
    If you need a diode I can mail one...just replace it when you have the chance. I also have the diode/resistor (soldered together) that I removed from my old Red River cable you can have...Just PM your mailing address....

    In the meantime...anti virus, screen saver etc on your laptop kicking you off?

    Ed
    I'm going to have my brother check the radioshack near where he lives. If they have it he can drop it off later in the week, he comes into town usually once a week. If they don't have it (very small shop in a very small town so who knows) I may take you up on the offer. Until then I'll just have to leave it be.

    As far as computer issues, it's such an old laptop that literally doesn't get used anymore so I actually took all my virus scanner type software off of it. It actually runs much faster now, go figure. It'll never see the internet again and at this point it's been slaved for engine tuning only now, so all that's on there is the OS and all the different tuning programs I wanted to try out. The screensaver doesn't kick in until 10 minutes I think, but I can disable that just to be sure.

  11. #326
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    Quote Originally Posted by EDZIP View Post
    If you need a diode I can mail one...just replace it when you have the chance. I also have the diode/resistor (soldered together) that I removed from my old Red River cable you can have...Just PM your mailing address....

    In the meantime...anti virus, screen saver etc on your laptop kicking you off?

    Ed

    Attachment 10298

    I'm still not convinced I need a resistor though, (I've come across similar info in a few different places) but this is what I'm going off of. I insert my ground into A and my TX/DX into M. Terminal B is labeled as the 10k ohm mode, and I don't think my port even has that terminal populated, I'd have to double check though. But maybe the diode is needed to prevent some sort of feedback loop or something, I'm definitely not an electrical engineer, however I know just enough to get myself into trouble.

    Some people have said that on their 8192 baud PCMs running a resistor to terminal M has no ill side-effects, while others have had it work but give out erroneous data from certain sensors. And I know one of the places that makes the adapter cable has a switch built in to disable the resistor for applications that don't require it. I should probably just buy a cable, but most of them run in the $50-60 range, and if I can build the same thing for around $10, why the heck wouldn't I?

  12. #327
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    I have mine setup for the 95 Camaro which has the OBD2 style ALDL connector...

    Here is a thread with some pin info...might help some:

    http://www.gearhead-efi.com/Fuel-Inj...ch-harness-LT1

    Again..if you need a diode...I can drop one in the mail tomorrow. Since I built my own harness haven't had a bad flash..via pcm on the bench or ALDL connector.

  13. #328
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    This board is missing some components.
    All that work has 10 piece of components soldered. This one has 8.
    I see a missing resistor and some diode probably.
    If you can`t fix it yourself, trash it and get one with 10 components.

  14. #329
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    Quote Originally Posted by kur4o View Post
    This board is missing some components.
    All that work has 10 piece of components soldered. This one has 8.
    I see a missing resistor and some diode probably.
    If you can`t fix it yourself, trash it and get one with 10 components.
    That's interesting, do you have any other information to back that up? Not saying you're wrong or anything, but I stayed up late and read all 22 pages of this thread and you are the first and only person to say anything like that. It seems that this may be an updated version of what you're talking about, but many people use them, or at least try to. There seems to be a high percentage of them which are simply DOA, which doesn't surprise me since they're all made in china, and very cheaply to boot. Again, not disagreeing with you, just curious if you have any more info to support that.

  15. #330
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    I still haven't gotten this to work yet, but I'm not giving up yet either. I've got the correct resistors and diodes coming, I figured I may as rule that out as the problem. Particularly since there are people who've gotten it to work with them, and the youtube video where I originally found this shows the exact same board I'm using with a resistor and diode added to the wiring. Perhaps there is a slightly different version of the board that doesn't require these extra items and those are the ones that work without adding anything, either way I'll find out soon enough.

    On a slightly unrelated note, anybody have any idea if something like this would also work?

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/HC-06-Wireless-Bluetooth-Module-Slave-RS232-Serial-RF-Transeiver-MCU-for-Arduino-/291690665706?hash=item43ea1e56ea:g:OTsAAOSwuAVWymE 7


    My thought here would be to use it to run ALDLdroid without having to buy an $80-90 adapter on top of the nearly $20 app. I don't mind paying for the app, I've been wanting something like that for years for OBD1, I would just prefer to make my own adapter at a fraction of the cost if I can.

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