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Thread: Uber-easy DIY USB ALDL Cable

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  1. #1
    Fuel Injected! phonedawgz's Avatar
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    Dec 2011
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    Glad to hear you got it working. Weird that you had to roll back the driver to make it work. I ship the latest drivers along with my cables and they are FT232RL based. FTDI has it's drivers deprogram fake chips so I doubt yours are not real. An FYI to anyone out there trying to do the same thing. If you are purchasing a board at less than $5.00 the chip is most likely fake.

  2. #2
    Fuel Injected!
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    I've been working on getting my van properly running before I can try tuning since getting the cable to work. And then the cable stopped working! One of the conductors solder joints broke from being moved around in my backpack. I soldered it back up, epoxied the cable, and figured it was good. Not quite!

    When I startup tunerpro, and check the cable with the tools utility, it checks out good. It shows the selected port as COM4.

    Then when I hit the connect to the vehicle icon, the program shows Connecting in the lower status window, but it never connects. At that point, if I go back into the utility to check the cable, it shows the selected port as {COM4}, and it fails the check. This is repeatable.

    The other item I noticed, is when TunerPro starts to try to connect, the Rx and Tx LED's on the sparkfun FTDI board start to flash, one flashes red and the other flashes green.

    The connections look good on the cables. I need to verify that I've resoldered the broken connection to the correct line next. Perhaps someone hear knows why the brackets are changing on the COM port? That might be a good clue...
    Last edited by tony-baroni; 11-27-2019 at 07:26 PM. Reason: Added screenshots

  3. #3
    Fuel Injected! PlayingWithTBI's Avatar
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    Maybe a stupid question, is your device manager port set to COM-4 too?

  4. #4
    Carb and Points!
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    Feb 2019
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    After doing some reading here and elsewhere, I bought this:
    Attachment 15422
    .. and it worked!
    I just connected the Tx and Rx wires together and stuck them in the M pin, and the ground wire into the A pin.

    Then after a slight learning curve with ALDLdroid and TunerPro RT, and some tinkering with various definition files that were quasi-related to my car, I finally found the right combination that gave me quality data.

    For my 1993 Oldsmobile 98 (L27) with the 16141470 ECM, the $F5.adx is the one to use. I made a couple edits to the file so that the SEND commands would show up.
    I have the factory service manual so I'm going to go through and edit the .adx file some more so that the values/units jive with the manual - just the plaintext and obvious stuff, not the hexadecimal code about which I'm clueless. Then I'll post it here so the one or two others who still drive '93s can use it in the future.

    What I'm looking for is the .xdf file that fits my car as well as the $F5.adx does. I have the 5B4.xdf, but some of the data is nonsensical.
    Anyone know where I can find that?

    See what I'm really wanting to do here is diagnose my transmission. Either the torque converter clutch solenoid, or the TCC PWM solenoid, aren't behaving correctly.
    According to what I've gathered so far, the TCC is operating at full line pressure pretty much all the time. I want to be able to open and close that solenoid from my laptop/phone to test it.
    That's what the factory service manual is telling me to do as the next step in diagnostics -- but with a Tech 1 tool. I want TunerPro RT to be my Tech tool.

  5. #5
    Fuel Injected!
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    Apr 2020
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    Belarus
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    Hey guyz!
    I have FT232RL cable. It works perfect with 8192. RX and TX are spliced to 8192 baud pin. And ground. Thats it.

    I need to connect it to 160 baud car. Tons of information about it. It differs and no working solution found.
    What modifications I need to do to make it work?

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