Quote Originally Posted by steveo View Post
from what i remember the maf and all the pink wire stuff is on a totally different power feed from the CCP solenoid and all the brown wire stuff, it's independent all the way back to the key switch, i don't even think they're on the same connector between the engine and body harness. having them both fail simultaneously may be a coincidence but is suspicious and that should be taken into account when tracing this failure. could be a ground thing?
@Steveo According to the FSM, the 1995 Caprice/Impala has the MAF, both 02's, AIR, EGR, and CCP valve all running off fuse #4, which is the one that blew-out, giving me some of the codes. The trans codes are weird, and I am digging into those too.

I replaced the fuse, codes went away. Started car. 02's initially showed "normal" voltage swings as the car warmed up. Once it entered closed loop, voltage swings slowed on both 02's, with one of the 02's stopping entirely. Car pegged BLM's, and the MAF started show an increase in flow, despite being at idle. Shut the car down before the fuse popped again because something is obviously screwed up.

Tested pink leads at the CCP and MAF. Both over 400 ohms to the fuse block. Tested continuity on those same wires (positive leads) to ground - both show 12 ohms resistance to ground, so there's something to check into. (The positive leads carry 12v AND go to ground. Not good.) Interestingly enough, while I was confirming the readings from the MAF to ground, it showed the 12 ohms and then instantly went to infinity, like something switched off. The CCP also showed infinity. Could it be a sensor or switch failing internally that ground when hot?

Quote Originally Posted by Fast355 View Post
If the LT1s are similar to the Vortecs, on my Express vans Vortec 5.7 the MAF grounds to the engine block itself. If the block was painted it is likely not making a solig ground through the bolt itself.
Good suggestion, but these grounds were 100% and nothing was painted there. The engine ground strap goes to the head - which is raw aluminum. The front grounding stud at the coil is the same I was using before - also to the bare head.