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Thread: 1995 lt1 M6 tuning

  1. #1
    Electronic Ignition! Trevor's Avatar
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    1995 lt1 M6 tuning

    So I’m new to the tuning game. I bought a low miles 1995 TA with a rod out. Ive nearly finished my engine, a 358 with flat tops, .6 valve springs, cc306 camshaft. Ported stock heads, port matched intake, roller rockers. Doug’s headers. I purchased a wideband kit for it, and about to purchase TunerCat. I was hoping someone would have a similar setup bin file to get me close on tuning., or any hints or pointers. I appreciate any help

  2. #2
    LT1 specialist steveo's Avatar
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    it'll run well enough to get you going without a 'starter bin', you can fine tune and learn from there

    you should try my software at fbodytech.com it doesn't cost anything

    - eehack for scanning/logging/analysis/parameter testing/reading and writing the bin file
    - tunerpro with EEX for modifying your bin
    - trimalyzer if you prefer a bit more automation to your fueling corrections (it's fairly new)

    software configuration:

    - download eehack
    - download tunerpro
    - download eex definition
    - load eex definition into tunerpro
    - set 'view by' (top left corner) to 'parameter category'
    - read stock bin with eehack (use eehack's flash module)
    - load stock bin into tunerpro and poke around in it

    tune idle:

    - warm up vehicle
    - open eehack's parameter control
    - enable 'spark' and 'override idle' (also maybe enable 'expert mode' and turn off 'limit 5 degrees', as you might want to try more advance)
    - play with the sliders to find out how much additional timing and idle speed your car 'likes' (it's also to taste)
    - in tunerpro, open the spark timing > closed tps spark advance and idle air control > idle speed target rpm, and set the speed and add timing advance to suit

    further tips for idle tuning in http://fbodytech.com/tutorials/idle-stabilization/

    tune cruise fueling:

    - open eehack's datalog thing, start your car, connect eehack, and make sure it's logging, and going into closed loop
    - go for a lot of drives in varied conditions, and save the resulting logs
    - load all the logs at the same time
    - open 'analysis' and 'run analysis'
    - scale your air fuel metering -> maf calibration gently based on that data, then do a new set of logs and repeat

    full throttle fueling:

    - install blm locker patch using tunerpro and EEX
    - wire your wideband's analog output into your ECM at either D12 or D27 (D27 works great) and attempt to calibrate your wideband input in eehack's settings (it's not perfect but you can get it close)
    - do more datalogs
    - run analysis and look at power enrichment AFR tab

    once you do this stuff a bit you'll get a feel for it, and be doing more advanced tuning before you know it

  3. #3
    Electronic Ignition! Trevor's Avatar
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    I really appreciate it! So I should just get the cable and avoid TunerCat? I traded my truck for this car and somehow sank a few thousand quick. My wife is not happy so the less I spend finishing the better

  4. #4
    Fuel Injected! spfautsch's Avatar
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    eehack is fairly full featured compared to tunercats. Having started where you're at (including the missus watching the cash flow like a hawk) 4 years ago I would have saved my $20. I could count on one hand the number of times I used TC before I found eehack.

    If you're handy with a soldering iron you can make your own cable - all you need is a usb to ttl serial converter cable / board, a couple resistors (1k ohm if memory serves), and if you want to get "fancy" a OBD-2 style aldl connector. I may have a surplus of the aldl connectors and surely have a stockpile of resistors I'd gladly donate to your cause assuming you're within reach of the us postal service.

  5. #5
    Fuel Injected!
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    EEhack and Tunercat are 2 completely different programs that do different things. Tunercat lets you adjust parameters and EEhack lets you scan and log the operation. I think you meant Tunercat vs Tunerpro, which both work similar. You need one of them to do any actual tuning.

    The cable can be made with a FT232RL based USB to serial adapter. I bought a few JY-MCU adapters that I've been using. I also added a resistor and diode. I'm trying to recall this quickly, but I'm pretty sure it's a 1K resistor from the TX to the ALDL port data line and a signal diode like a 1N914 from RX to the ALDL port data line with the band towards the RX pin. It's worked well for me, but others have reported issues. Others have also reported counterfeit IC's that could be causing issues.

  6. #6
    Electronic Ignition! Trevor's Avatar
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    I don’t mind spending $55-80 for a cable. As I understand it tunerpro is free with voluntary donation, and I would need winflash to actually flash the pcm. I had not heard of eehack prior to this forum, so I don’t know much about it. Would any wideband kit work for these tuners as far as logging? I was looking at the aem kit with bosch 4.9 sensor, it has a 5v serial output on it. I was raised around double pumpers and big blocks so this is new to me.

  7. #7
    Electronic Ignition! Trevor's Avatar
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    Steveo I have heard nothing but good stuff about your program during many hours of tuning research. I really appreciate all the members pointing me in the right direction, we all must start somewhere

  8. #8
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    EEhack will flash, so you can use it to do all the PCM connected work. You need Tunercat or Tunerpro to make tuning adjustments. You could use Tunercat to flash too, but it won't scan or log.

  9. #9
    Fuel Injected! spfautsch's Avatar
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    I did confuse Tunercat with Winflash earlier. It's been that long since I used either. I would not recommend Tunercat for editing your bin as it's definition file is somewhat outdated and missing a lot of parameters that are available with one of the many EEX files floating around here. Winflash is also unnecessary.

    As far as a cable what I used was this. Unfortunately it's currently out of stock everywhere, but it already has the necessary buffer circuitry. All one has to do is solder RX+TX together and wire that to pin 9 of the aldl, and then connect ground to aldl pin 5.

  10. #10
    Electronic Ignition! Trevor's Avatar
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    Will trimalyzer work with maf system now or is it still speed density?

  11. #11
    Electronic Ignition! Trevor's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by spfautsch View Post
    I did confuse Tunercat with Winflash earlier. It's been that long since I used either. I would not recommend Tunercat for editing your bin as it's definition file is somewhat outdated and missing a lot of parameters that are available with one of the many EEX files floating around here. Winflash is also unnecessary.

    As far as a cable what I used was this. Unfortunately it's currently out of stock everywhere, but it already has the necessary buffer circuitry. All one has to do is solder RX+TX together and wire that to pin 9 of the aldl, and then connect ground to aldl pin 5.

    Excuse me for my lack of knowledge but a tunerCat/tunerpro aldl cable still requires soldering? I was under the impression they were out of the box hookups

  12. #12
    Fuel Injected! spfautsch's Avatar
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    Probably not, but paying $55-80 for something you can make for $30 is against my "religion". Also, I had all the parts I needed to make a cable in my parts drawer, which was a factor. So if you're intimidated by soldering buy a ready-made cable. Or, learn a new skill - it's easier than tying your shoes.

    Trimalyzer does work for MAF tuning. I haven't messed with it since last fall so all the details are a little fuzzy, but unless you've changed sensors or modified any intake plumbing you shouldn't need to make very drastic changes to the MAF calibration.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Trevor View Post
    Excuse me for my lack of knowledge but a tunerCat/tunerpro aldl cable still requires soldering? I was under the impression they were out of the box hookups

    Yes, if you buy a complete cable it will work without modifications. If it doesn't, you'd return it for a different one.

    I'm not sure where you're looking but http://www.reddevilriver.com has a cable for a decent price.

  14. #14
    Electronic Ignition! Trevor's Avatar
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    I don’t mind soldering, I build rgb guage clusters and headlights. I just stay so busy at work it’s hard to find extra time. Time is more valuable than money to me. Intake is only slightly modified, cold air intake 52mmtb and air foil so I probably won’t have to worry. I researched and found a/c pressure is the best to tie in wideband

  15. #15
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    What you need is the adapter from the link.

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/FT232RL-3-3...8AAOSwrklVMjIp

    You can buy several and have spares. It is the best design from all usb to ttl and proved the most durable.
    Tie rx and tx lines and connect ground.

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