Last edited by Rally Smith; 03-30-2012 at 01:21 AM.
$100. more then if you take the whole motor?
I don't know? I got to get my engine and trans out and parts stripped to take hulk to JY, then get other one here to pull engine and get my engine in... was trying to get rid of the entire engine. It's at least 3 weeks out before I could even get heads etc... off if things go well. When are you needing them?
I'm getting some good offers on parts from the Roadmaster but going to have to get a shipping broker, pallet parts and drop off at terminal in Spokane to ship this big stuff. Would rather just sell the wrecked car with bad LT1 motor as a whole. Seems some of these B body wagon parts are rare and expensive so maybe I should keep some... Really don't need this project right now but such is life...
1990 Chevy Suburban 5.7L Auto ECM 1227747 $42!
1998 Chevy Silverado 5.7L Vortec 0411 Swap to RoadRunner!
-= =-
Well I found a few old dead links on how to drill the LT1 intake for a distributor then one with pictures. Seems it is not hard but other issues arise if not using LT1 heads. So make sure LT1 heads will bolt on your motor/
http://www.popularhotrodding.com/tec...ls1/index.html
1990 Chevy Suburban 5.7L Auto ECM 1227747 $42!
1998 Chevy Silverado 5.7L Vortec 0411 Swap to RoadRunner!
-= =-
Well, I don't really want to do a lot of or (any) extra work if I don't have to. I didn't realize that those heads would require mods to get to work.
I have been surfing/researching heads that would work that would be better w/o any mods and came up with the L98's. Might see if I can locate any for cheap and use those.
So the LT1 heads will not bolt on your motor? The regular heads need work for LT1 intake is all I read...
1990 Chevy Suburban 5.7L Auto ECM 1227747 $42!
1998 Chevy Silverado 5.7L Vortec 0411 Swap to RoadRunner!
-= =-
I know you said you didn't want to mess with vortec's, but they are the best bang for the buck. stock they perform just below the high dollar aftermarket heads. my neighbor has sportsman II heads on his motor comparing the flow ratings his didn't flow much more than my vortecs, at least not $1200 more...
87 4Runner, 15" spring lift, 3" body, chevy vortec 355, 5.29 gears, 38.5x15.5x15" Boggers, 280hr, 16168625 running $0D
93 S10, 36x12.5x15 TSL's, custom turbo headers, 266HR cam, p&p vortec heads, $0D Marine MPFI with 8psi boost.
05 Silverado, 2' lift, 4" exhaust, Bully Dog programmer,
Distributor hole looked like an easy chore, one guy made a tin template from a TPI lower plenum and drilled the hole and used a 1/4 inch spacer for distributor without a machine shop. Now if the LT1 head bolts on, that is only issue.
But if Vortec heads are as good as said above then an intake on them would be killer! Vortec heads are only 10 years newer tech then LT1... but the spider technology sucked compared to MPFI or SFI... but that is what worked in the board room for mass production so we got spider injection...
1990 Chevy Suburban 5.7L Auto ECM 1227747 $42!
1998 Chevy Silverado 5.7L Vortec 0411 Swap to RoadRunner!
-= =-
woody80z28 just finished up tuning his vortec tbi. might want to ask him about the performance gains he saw from switching to vortecs.
87 4Runner, 15" spring lift, 3" body, chevy vortec 355, 5.29 gears, 38.5x15.5x15" Boggers, 280hr, 16168625 running $0D
93 S10, 36x12.5x15 TSL's, custom turbo headers, 266HR cam, p&p vortec heads, $0D Marine MPFI with 8psi boost.
05 Silverado, 2' lift, 4" exhaust, Bully Dog programmer,
My head is starting to hurt. Here is my goal, better flowing heads with the least amount of work/$, better cam, with engine rebui
Here's the thing guys. I need my truck back up and running soon. I would like some more power out of it and I do have a Autoprom, LM-1 wideband O2 and running TunerPro RT. I have messed with the tune a little bit on my truck, but still not that comfortable making big changes. I basiclly have tuned my VE Table and that's about it. I don't get a lot of time to work on the truck tuning and gas being as expensive as it is and where it's headed doesn't bod well for lots of tuning time in the future. So I think as simple as I can keep this project the better.
Last edited by Rally Smith; 03-30-2012 at 06:54 AM.
I think that anyone who has faced a rebuild and wanted to upgrade has been in the same boat with same headache.
Six probably has the easiest and cheapest solution. Getting a set of Vortec heads and rebuilding them instead of yours should be cheap and big bang for buck. Buying the intake to put your TBI on and headers would be only other expense. Your going to rebuild your bottom end and change cam anyway.
You have an AutoProm and wideband and have tuned before so don't underestimate yourself. You can do this and there's plenty of help. Vortec spark table is available, truck will run, just warm it up to temp before going to work and record data to work, adjust VE at lunch time with Daves VE fixer spreadsheet, warm up truck and drive home and do the same. No added expense of gas driving around to tune.
Then if you would like to continue driving a vehicle with petroleom gas, vote Obama out of office so this country can continue to become self suffecient without being held hostage by foreign contries oil while spending all our money being world police. We have all we need, just need to let them do it and technoligy will proceed. If you'd like to see what a true leader could do with this country watch Newt Gingrinch speach at the graduating class collage yesterday. The guy is amazing at american history, inovation and technoligy. I don't think he will win the republican convention but sure hope he is part of the countries future!
If not get a bicycle, because our electric infastructure can not handle electric cars and if everyone went electric we could not afford electric for our homes and there's no other infastucture to distrbute natural gas...
OK I'd better stop and get back to your engine.
1990 Chevy Suburban 5.7L Auto ECM 1227747 $42!
1998 Chevy Silverado 5.7L Vortec 0411 Swap to RoadRunner!
-= =-
I bought my 4bbl vortec intake off ebay for $120 new. If you go vortec just keep in mind that they cannot handle much more than .450 lift with out changing the valve springs or having the pockets cut. I've read the springs can be swapped for LS7 springs for a mild cam like your talking about. Mine are modified to handle .600 I have a whole whopping $650 in them and that includes buying them. If you look at the GMPP crate motors in summit most the ones that put any kind of decent power out are using vortec heads.
87 4Runner, 15" spring lift, 3" body, chevy vortec 355, 5.29 gears, 38.5x15.5x15" Boggers, 280hr, 16168625 running $0D
93 S10, 36x12.5x15 TSL's, custom turbo headers, 266HR cam, p&p vortec heads, $0D Marine MPFI with 8psi boost.
05 Silverado, 2' lift, 4" exhaust, Bully Dog programmer,
I'll give another vote for Vortec heads. Match the cam to the gears, use factory roller if possible, and big lift not needed. Use TBI intake from Ebay etcetera, find someone with a mild engine similar build willing to share calibration adn you should be at a good starting point.
Historical notes: Vortec heads are not so much newer than LT1 head. Ports and chambers are extreeeemely close to LT1 iron ports and chambers. Don't tell anyone but Vortec heads were on marine engines in '92. Ever wonder how GM knew so much about making them do good things the moment the '96 truck went into production?? :)
HTH
PS Lately I seem to have an airflow problem with my bicycle. On short runs it develops a rasping wheeze. On long runs, well, it just doesn't seem to make long runs anymore.
Last edited by 1project2many; 03-30-2012 at 07:11 PM.
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