After 20 years in retirement from the auto industry I recently started taking select clients to help pay rent on my lab.
In the 1980s I had a small fuel injection and carb shop with a partner who was the carb guy.
I must have repaired hundreds of DFI and 468 Cadillacs Olds and Crossfire Corvettes.
After the carb shop I had a Small Corvette shop for 5 years and was recruited by DCS Corvette action center.
Raced 28 weeks of the year as a Busch Grand National Nascar crew chief.
Then I retired and walked away from the whole industry.
I was contacted by a guy who had 3 of the 1984 corvettes and no 1226026 ECMs available.
There might be a few still alive but it does not matter much anyway.
The only way the old tune is going to feel right is to run REC90 fuel since all the old O2 sensors are targeted at 14.7 narrowband.
You see they are selling 10% ethanol as pump gas and it is stoichiometric at 14.2.
On the old engines with TBI lean power is 14.6 and that is dangerous lean for Gasohol stuffs going to break.
Another old trick the 160 ThermoStat means most likely your oil is going to be black with alcohol and water.
180 is needed to evaporate alcohol completely and purge the water vapor from the oil.
So I built a Harness Adapter and installed a Microsquirt first hard street pull it jumped the timing chain so I will be back tuning it next month.

I actually pulled my notes from the attic and built a flow bench for the crossfire again.
Nothing like rebushing 35 year old Throttle Bodies.

Another friend is HotRodding a 1967 Mustang.
His number one desire is to have a reliable ride with HotRod looks and sound.
I actually recommended he switch to a TBI to cope with the drivability issues he has had with 4 different new carbs.

So is it time for TBI to come back?

Also I am trying to decide about my own truck.
I got a very nice 95 suburban with 278K on the clock interior is great with later model seats, dual zone ac and all the LS niceness.
The motor not so much bad fuel pump, EGR valve, broken exhaust manifold bolts and manifolds.
The truck was set up full hill billy 2 inch raise with rubber in the front springs and spacer in the back, Reese hitch and electric brakes, Over sized tire on 15" rims, running boards, busted grill with brush guards, 6 inch side belts monkey snot glued on, basically embarrassing.
So far I have dropped it 6 inches all around, drilled the heads and installed Tri-Y headers and Zoomies at the rear door.
Stripped the plastic chrome and built a grill for the front, lost the rear bumper, made some foam rear valance panels, set 285 / 40 R 17 on Black 17x10 rims.
Pulled the 8 track and cassette decks placed a Pioneer DVD head unit.
Painted the top hammer coat silver (Mandatory in Florida), the lower valance, hood and boot black hammer coat.

So I have two choices on my engine for this build.
I have a nasty LT-4 that tachs out to 8500 and peaks at 600HP at 6500, 595Ft# at 5200.
I need to re-ring and re-seal, Replace the crank trigger and DIS about $3500.

The other is to put the old stock LT-4 roller cam in the truck block, timing gear set, Port and cut the heads, MOD the injector, Rebuild Dizzy, victor junior, Microsquirt Module, Oil pump, 2 piece timing cover, One piece pan gasket, Electric water Pump Good for about 375 Max at RW. $1000

One thing that is making me back away from the hotter engine is that I already have rear end wind up causing a really impressive squat at take off from the lights but scaring the crap out of me with the lowered springs in the rear. With the Zoomies I no longer have room for slappers or a caltrak. So I need to build a torque arm for a 10Bolt chevy. 400HP real easy 600HP the arm will break when I punch it.

Also I might give one of those cheap power stroke diesel turbos a try later.

Opinions welcome.