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Thread: Help adj some bins for nitrous

  1. #16
    RIP EagleMark's Avatar
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    http://tunerpro.net/

    Get tunerpro RT

    and all the files you'll need

    http://www.gearhead-efi.com/Fuel-Inj...rmation-EE-EEB

    Then read the stickys on top of this forum

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  2. #17
    Fuel Injected!
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    Thanks, i got every thing lined out on the car. Regaped the plugs AND IT PULLS HARD... Can i get some help on converting the .uni files from TTS datamaster so i can show you the runs i made sat?
    Last edited by mynumber1hater; 04-03-2012 at 01:27 AM.

  3. #18
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    I don't know how to convert them, can you save data logs as an excell, or just zip it and post it I think I have datamaster EE that will play them...

    so you running the nitrous or just getting ready?

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  4. #19
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    Yes im running the spray...
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    Last edited by mynumber1hater; 04-03-2012 at 04:24 AM.

  5. #20
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    n20sat.uni file, cruising at 50 to 60 mph your incoming air temp is 95f? I want to live there! or do you not have a cold air intake? Even at lite cruise you were getting tiny knock... voltage little low at 12.5 at highway cruise? Little rich everywhere but not sure that's a bad thing right now with low voltage and high IAT...

    n20 2.uni file... WOW that's a lot or knock retard at WOT!!! Couple other things at WOT voltage goes down to 12.1 volts? Comes back to 12.8 at lower RPM. Watch your inj Duty Cycle at that WOT run around REC 900 and your in the 80% ++ plus range, so near or at running out of fuel, IIRC voltage on these $EE is from fuel pump so 12.1 volt over where it should be at closer to 14 volt could be lowering fuel delivery. Again IAT 86f? I want to live where it's 86f!!! I'm cold here...

    Other than that it looks pretty darn good! Just some tweaking, pull some timing... Voltage is where I would look first and why so high Incoming Air Temp?

    1990 Chevy Suburban 5.7L Auto ECM 1227747 $42!
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  6. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by EagleMark View Post
    n20sat.uni file, cruising at 50 to 60 mph your incoming air temp is 95f? I want to live there! or do you not have a cold air intake? Even at lite cruise you were getting tiny knock... voltage little low at 12.5 at highway cruise? Little rich everywhere but not sure that's a bad thing right now with low voltage and high IAT...

    n20 2.uni file... WOW that's a lot or knock retard at WOT!!! Couple other things at WOT voltage goes down to 12.1 volts? Comes back to 12.8 at lower RPM. Watch your inj Duty Cycle at that WOT run around REC 900 and your in the 80% ++ plus range, so near or at running out of fuel, IIRC voltage on these $EE is from fuel pump so 12.1 volt over where it should be at closer to 14 volt could be lowering fuel delivery. Again IAT 86f? I want to live where it's 86f!!! I'm cold here...

    Other than that it looks pretty darn good! Just some tweaking, pull some timing... Voltage is where I would look first and why so high Incoming Air Temp?
    First i want say thanks for your help. Second i live in baytown tx. Not sure what the temp was that day but it was warm outside, i am running a cold air intake into the finder... Third im very new to tuning. So im going to ask some noob questions.

    Low voltage, bad alt? Or some wiring issue with the after market pump?
    How do i get less knock retard at WOT?
    WOULD you like a copy of my tune? I can post it.
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    Last edited by mynumber1hater; 04-04-2012 at 03:40 AM.

  7. #22
    Fuel Injected! PJG1173's Avatar
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    low pump voltage could also be an indicator of a bad ground. as for less KR I'd be looking to get rid of the knock by backing off the timing or giving it more fuel at WOT.
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  8. #23
    Fuel Injected!
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    Ground for the pump thats an easy check(i did the trap door mod) I will get on the voltage issue tomorrow that seems to be a major problem. And could line the rest of the issues out.

    Would you guys pull timing in the tune or use an ign box.(i have a mallory 685 not installed)
    Also how much is to much "KR"? 1-3 0r 5-8 exc.
    Adj what bin/file to get more fuel at WOT???
    Im new and learning fast.
    Last edited by mynumber1hater; 04-04-2012 at 04:47 AM.

  9. #24
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    when it comes to nitrous, any knock is too much.
    1995 Chevrolet Monte Carlo LS 3100 + 4T60E


  10. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by RobertISaar View Post
    when it comes to nitrous, any knock is too much.
    GOOD point......

  11. #26
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    I didn't study those data recordings to death but I would before I did anymore WOT nitrous runs. You were hitting 10 degrees spark retard in a couple places and I cringed while looking at the low voltage and Short term long term fuel not locked.

    Your asking for help and I will, I'm sure others will too. But in the end if you blow a motor we are only trying to help avoid that!!!!!

    If you have a big fuel pump the issue could be a ground at pump or more commonly on the modified LT1 you need a hot wire kit for fuel pump. Check your charging system at batterey to see if it is working up to par. It probably is and IIRC the voltage showing in data log is from fuel pump. So lower voltage is lower fuel. Need to fix this or confirm it is wrong, the way it drops at WOT high rpm and comes back up some lower RPM I do beleive your pump is taking more power then stock wiring can provide.

    Been looking through the TunerPro $EE mask and just can't seem to find any PE spark? Do you have TunerPro or since you had a DataMaster log I'm guessing TunerCat. Look through the mask for PE spark, if you find it see if it gives an address and I will try to add it to TunerPro mask and find it in some partial hacks I have for $EE LT1. But that is where I would pull spark. Study your data log and click on view Spark Retard, go slow and match up spark knock RPM in the 90 100 MAP and pull as much as it was showing retard. Even add a couple more for safety at this point... If you can't find a PE spark added then you'll have to pull it from main spark table.

    From looking at your log earlier it looks like you were still getting some INT and BLM movements Short term and long term fuel in Datamaster. Need to download and read instructions on WOT BLM locker in EE thread:
    http://www.gearhead-efi.com/Fuel-Inj...rmation-EE-EEB

    This will lock BLM and INT to 128 and add fuel from there when you adjust WOT fueling. If not then who knows what fuel it will add, your rich most places so it may not be adding enough, your voltage is low, you don't have a Wide Band O2 sensor so you really don't know how lean your running.

    Look for a paremeter called "%Change To Fuel/Air Ratio Vs. RPM at WOT" and add 20% to all numbers in column. This needs to be done on a stock engine with good voltage so you may need more. But voltage has to be addressed first! Spark has to be pulled first! No more N20 till your a good boy! Now go to your room and study your knock retard to find out where to pull spark advance!

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  12. #27
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    assuming EE has a PE spark adder, or at least has been documented, i'm thinking there is nowhere near enough play in it as-is to get all of the KR out.

    that and you would absolutely have to be in PE for it to be in effect as well.
    1995 Chevrolet Monte Carlo LS 3100 + 4T60E


  13. #28
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    I can't find one so far so don't know how much is there, if there? He's got plenty of room in the main spark tables for now...

    1990 Chevy Suburban 5.7L Auto ECM 1227747 $42!
    1998 Chevy Silverado 5.7L Vortec 0411 Swap to RoadRunner!
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  14. #29
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    if nothing else, it could always be patched in.

    i'm sure there is plenty of room on the E side for a patch like this.
    1995 Chevrolet Monte Carlo LS 3100 + 4T60E


  15. #30
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    Yeah but Uber Nerd hasn't taught grasshopper enough to do that yet...

    Plus all I have is bits and pieces of $EE dissembly so I don't know? Weather is getting better here and I have so much to do it's going to be next winter before I'm even intrested...

    1990 Chevy Suburban 5.7L Auto ECM 1227747 $42!
    1998 Chevy Silverado 5.7L Vortec 0411 Swap to RoadRunner!
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