Starting to Learn on 95 G30 5.7 for Towing

[Fast355]

I have looked a lot on here the last few days and this place has a lot of information, but no where that I looked was a simple list of what to change for a starting bin when vortec heads and a mild roller cam are added. Here is what I think needed changed, this is not a tune, just a basic changes to fire the engine and prep for wide band logging.

1. Scalar: Change Engine Constants - Injector Flow Rate from 61 to 74 to compensate for 18 psi spring
2. Scalar: Temperature for EGR On changed from 74.8 C (0x99) to 149.8 C (0xFD)
3. Scalar: Initial Spark Advance changed from 0.0 deg (0x00) to 9.8 deg (0x1C).
4. Table: Change both open and closed throttle Main Spark Table vs. MAP vs. RPM to base 1998 truck vortec timing table. zero out all negative numbers, smooth slightly.
5. Table: Desired EGR vs. RPM vs. Vacuum changed to 0.
6. Table: EGR Fuel Reduction vs. RPM vs. Vacuum changed to 0.
7. Flag: Code 32 EGR Failure changed from Set to Not Set.
8. Flag: Linear EGR/EVRV EGR changed from Not Set to Set.
9. Flag: Backpressure EGR changed from Set to Not Set

The idea is to let the computer know that the injectors now flow more fuel. Get the initial timing to 10 from 0 and load the most conservative vortec timing table. The Egr changes were made according to the instructions for the WBO2 zip and I increased the temp for EGR On to make sure it was off as I have it blocked. Any other suggestions? This is not a tune or even a complete list of what has been changed on my Bin, just some basics to build on and get the engine fired when switching to higher flow heads and a small cam on a TBI. There are a few thread where people lose 10 degrees of timing when messing with the scalars for timing so I just changed the one and will check to make sure its working as intended by setting the timing tables to all one number and reflashing as a quick test with a timing light.

In no way shape or form would I use the stock Vortec timing map especially with a bigger cam than the Vortecs cam with.

I would start with the one I attached. Pull about 6° across the whole map if you are running 87 octane then creep up 1° at a time on the dyno until you find the best power or experience knock retard.

I run the same timing tables in Idle and Off-Idle tables. It helps keep the throttle response and transition back to idle from being jumpy.

I would on enable the linear EGR valve if I were using its input for a wideband.

In case anyone wonders the ignition timing map is more or less a computer version of the GMPP HEI distributor that comes in the HO and ZZ series of GM crate engines.

[donf]

Cool, thank you for looking at this. Yes they linear egr input was changed from not set to set, I am thinking that turns it on for the wideband. I think that turns that input on. I will edit the timing map match the one you recommended and pull some out for starters.

[Fast355]

Cool, thank you for looking at this. Yes they linear egr input was changed from not set to set, I am thinking that turns it on for the wideband. I think that turns that input on. I will edit the timing map match the one you recommended and pull some out for starters.

Hey Donf,

Just checking in and curious if you had made any headway on this swap.

[donf]

I got held up a bit. I purchased USA made vortec heads from Jegs. The first one was not bad, but not great either. Just a bit of cleanup below the valve seat got rid of most of the ugly stuff. The second one looked a little cleaner casting wise but was assembled with a defective valve. There was a gouge in the stem and had to go back. They were nice about it and got another shipped within a few days. Some recommended the EQ heads but they have a larger port, I wanted 170cc or below for such a low rpm application. If people get the jegs vortec heads, the castings do look to be thicker than the Gm castings but not as much care is put into the manufacturing process.

[donf]

My project has hit a stop for a week or two. I ordered "made in the USA" vortec heads from Jegs. I wanted to keep the ports small and the EQ heads were rumored to have larger ports in Brezinski's Videos and other posts. The first Jegs 514080 head was a little ugly under the valve seats but OK. It looked like it had some type of liner on the valve guides. They were advertised has having bronze guides. I cleaned it up a little and went the the next one. The second head actually looked a little cleaner port wise but had a giant gack on one of the valve stems. Like there was something in the guide and they beat it through anyway. I returned that head and the replacement showed up today with a promaxx number on the box and no "made in the USA" Its the same ugly casting but no liners in the guides and the retainer to seal clearance is only .420" When the other head was .475" clearance. It was a big mistake to order these but live and learn. I think I will call Jegs in the morning and see what can be done.

[donf]

Still stuck on the heads. I spoke with Jegs, they started substituting promax import heads for their 514080 vortec heads recently without changing the description online. I got one better head and the other is from promax. The castings are the same, even the same casting number, but the machine work is not exactly the same. I think the castings were always imported, just one supplier cared a little more about parts and machine work. Anyway I think I solved the retainer to guide issue with a new set of springs and retainers. A 20lb increase in spring pressure is not a bad thing anyway. Then I found the spring seat needed cut for the inner spring. Summit sent that cutter by Ontrac, what a joke. They have no local office, you can't call the driver. If your not home they keep the package and try the next day. I have been trying to get the tool for three days, but the van shows up at different times and I have a full time job. Eventually I will get heads on the engine. I did do most of the 409 exhaust last weekend.

[donf]

The heads are on the engine. There have been a few odds and ends I have been fixing as I put the van back together that's been holding things up. The last one was the Tbi rebuild gaskets they made it from LA all the way to Oregon in one day, then a postal service worker decides to send it to Texas for a week. Its now due back in Oregon on Monday. I bought a few cheap 409 stainless lengths from Summit and replaced the entire exhaust. It was welding practice mostly, I need to weld more as they still are not that great. It's not structural though and I used angle cuts for budget. This engine will not see 5000rpm on a regular basis, so it will not be maxing out any pipe diameters. They complete system was done for about $200 including the new ss muffler. I did use a lot of argon though so maybe $250 total. I was able to mill out most of the bad stuff in the front exhaust manifold ports and smoothed the iron with carbide burs.

[donf]

One more thing the later style fuel pressure regulator cover is not as easy to unplug. Its threaded part is just crimped lightly into the outer can with a blob of metal dropped over the screw. I followed the instruction for the early style not thinking there was any difference and the crimp came loose causing the whole assembly to just rotate and wobble. I have an aftermarket Jet cover coming tomorrow.

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