That wasn't my intended methodology. I was seeing a staggering amount of knock so I removed 3+ degrees of timing and it made no difference so I started looking at fueling. I think I might have got into a situation where the more timing I removed the worse it got because it would fall on it's face sooner. Also, see my comment about VE below.
That would be easy with someone to do the driving. I think I just had an idea to add to eehack...
Edit: thinking on this, the only way I can imagine it being "easy" is with a driver and a chassis dyno. You're going to be chasing a moving target (MAP). Or am I missing the point? Is this the intended purpose of auto spark?
I ran a bit with a fuel pressure gauge the other day and it looked good to me ~38psi @ idle (45kpa) and ~44psi at WOT. Nice and steady too. Impressive b/c it looks like the original pressure regulator.
After giving it some thought I'm going to go back to square 1 with my tune and start from scratch with the original VE tables. I just looked back at the second log I took before I killed my MAF (and subsequently started tuning SD) and the IAT was over 100F then. In hindsight the knock map wasn't bad at all. I had to remove a lot of VE up to around 3000 rpm, and I'm beginning to think it wouldn't be bad to leave that more or less alone except for 0-1000 rpm where it was so ridiculously rich. It was raining the day I started tuning idle without the MAF and I nearly passed out from the fumes in my garage waiting for it to switch to CL.
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