VE coming out way over 100

[1project2many]

Unless you have a bad gauge that is BS!!!

You just proved what I said all along is you don't have enough fuel pressure. You got everything turned up so high you got idle OK but not under load. That is not enough fuel!

Yes regulater diaphrams go bad and the springs crack!

Pinch your return line and see how high pressure goes?

Check fuel filter??

[Mastiff]

Thing is, the symptoms aren't so different from before I replaced EVERYTHING on the fuel delivery side. The pump is new, most of the lines are new, the filter is new, and it's all stock (EFI fuel filter, etc.). Anything is possible, but FPR seems like my best bet. I'll replace that and see what happens. Next step is to get real time fuel pressure into the cab. That stuff's not cheap.

[EagleMark]

I agree. But new parts do not mean good properly working parts!

And if you pinch return line carefully and pressure goes through the roof you know for sure it's the regulator.

You can also make and adpater with long hose from your fitting at TBI and run the gauge up under windsheild wiper to watch WOT fueling. Once your done and confident it will be fine and you save hundreds of dollars for in cab fuel pressure gauge.

[gregs78cam]

You can also make and adpater with long hose from your fitting at TBI and run the gauge up under windsheild wiper to watch WOT fueling. Once your done and confident it will be fine and you save hundreds of dollars for in cab fuel pressure gauge.

That's how I found my lagging regulator, had to move it closer to TBI.

[JeepsAndGuns]

I guess I'm the only one who that gauge on a long line doesnt work. I tried that, got a T fitting and ran a hose through a hole in the firewall and hooked to the gauge. When I started it, it only read a couple psi, took the line loose and put the gauge right in the T and it read the correct pressure. Put it back on the long hose and only got a couple psi. I tried bleeding the line of air and it made no diffrence other than getting gas everywhere. It just didnt ever work.

[EagleMark]

that's strange? Even my tool gauge has about 12 inches of hose...

[Mastiff]

Well, I pinched the hose and it flew up over 15. I didn't push it anymore. I took apart the FPR and the spring is rusty and the diaphragm ratty and rust, but it all looks functional. I replaced it anyway and it made no difference. The rebuild kit came with a few sponge rubber rings. They weren't on the exploded view anywhere. Anyone know what they are? I didn't see anything like them in there.

I'm attaching a picture of the insanity I'm up against. I'm running out of ideas. Let me ask this: how hot does an engine need to be to overload the factory setup? This motor is not factory. I don't think of it as heavily built up, but it has the headers, Edelbrock intake, maybe a slightly hotter cam than factory. Could I be going static, even at low RPM?

[gregs78cam]

Maybe leave VE1 as is, and fill VE2 back in like stock? Just a thought.

I've heard a lot of people 0 out VE2 and add it to VE1 but you need to leave the number in 0 RPM in VE2. That said, I have never done this. I always leave VE2 alone and tune VE1 and I get results in tables that add over 100. Why? I don't know but it works.

[dave w]

Well, I pinched the hose and it flew up over 15. I didn't push it anymore. I took apart the FPR and the spring is rusty and the diaphragm ratty and rust, but it all looks functional. I replaced it anyway and it made no difference. The rebuild kit came with a few sponge rubber rings. They weren't on the exploded view anywhere. Anyone know what they are? I didn't see anything like them in there.

I'm attaching a picture of the insanity I'm up against. I'm running out of ideas. Let me ask this: how hot does an engine need to be to overload the factory setup? This motor is not factory. I don't think of it as heavily built up, but it has the headers, Edelbrock intake, maybe a slightly hotter cam than factory. Could I be going static, even at low RPM?

I'm thinking maybe for the time being, let's assume the fuel system is OK. I'm wondering about the O2 voltages? The O2 volts are used by the ECM to calculate the BLM's I like the heated 3-wire O2 sensor with headers.

dave w

[EagleMark]

The rubber sponge goes under the regulator to seal off air coming into engine from underneath (un filtered air).

Your specs on engine are no where near these issues. Unless you have wrong injectors. But.............. wait for it......................














Your fuel pressure is to low!!!!!

Something is wrong with the way your regulator is set or your spring is bad. Since you have to take it off and put the sponge in put a new spring in, or new spring with adjustable regulator, or at least scratch the spring by a third.

But you could also do a test for us. Put 25.00 in VE2 RPM 0 column and re-datalog to compare. I've read that needs to be there. Why? I don't know or remember because I never do this. You could also do a test by going back to stock VE1 and VE2 for another test. These tests help us all learn!

This would also rule out your Fuel Pressure Gauge being inaccurate!

[Mastiff]

I'm not sure I understand about the sponge thing. The kit has two of them by the way, one big and one small. Do you mean it goes outside the regulator assembly on the bottom? If I'm thinking of it right, I could do that without taking it all apart. The kit did come with a new spring, which I installed.

Are you saying 11 PSI is not enough to tune the engine? I could pull the pod off and tighten up the spring some... It looks like a person could bend the tab, rotate the cup a few times and bend it back out. Is that right?

I do have a 3-wire heated O2 also.

I'll try the stock bin and putting 25 in RPM 0. I'll be surprised if it matters, but it's pretty easy to do.

[EagleMark]

I don't know why there are 2 sponges? One goes under center of regulator, I am looking at one right now and you will have to remove injector pod to get it down in hole. Now if one is a little bigger it looks like it could go on regulator above that. But again injector pod is going to have to come off.

Your up to 11 psi and saw no difference? I thought you were still at 9 psi? Up 2 more PSI to 13 is still a lot of fuel! 11 PSI is getting close to some gauges that are not accurate. What is the scale on your gauge? 0 to 15 is way more accurate then say 0 to 60...

I never though about bending the tab and giving it a couple turns tighter?

Is your O2 sensor clean on outside? Have you pulled it to see if it's sooted up? Did that old motor ever use non O2 sensor safe gasket sealer/silicone? You could read the O2 sensor thread for testing procedure on it.

Pull a couple plugs and see what color they are?

I'm really curious of those 2 tests if you have time before making any more changes?

[EagleMark]

I missed dave w post on O2, but I was thinking same thing...

[Mastiff]

Here's a picture of the kit I got:



I guess I wasn't clear I always had 11 PSI when I first fired up. After it was hot, it read 9 PSI. I was reading a thread on thridgen that said the underhood liquid filled gauges were notorious for reading way low once hot, so to just pay attention to the cold readings. Both FPRs had this same behavior. I can't remember my full range, but it would be in the neighborhood of 50 PSI.

Yeah, I was looking at the FPR and there has to be some reason for the threaded rod, cup, tab, etc. That's all I could think of. If they didn't intend for it to adjust, why not just have a fixed cup and be done with it...

I haven't pulled the O2 in a long time. I don't think I ever put any silicone on it or anything. I did verify it's getting voltage to the heat wire and that the ground was good.

The thing that confuses me is, if it's not a fuel pressure problem, where is all that fuel going? If the O2 was bad, I;m still dumping 200 BPW with 172 BLM worth of fuel into the thing and it runs decent and doesn't stink like gas. How is that possible? I passed emissions with it like this too. It almost HAS to be a fuel pressure thing, but I don't know how.

I don't know why there are 2 sponges? One goes under center of regulator, I am looking at one right now and you will have to remove injector pod to get it down in hole. Now if one is a little bigger it looks like it could go on regulator above that. But again injector pod is going to have to come off.

Your up to 11 psi and saw no difference? I thought you were still at 9 psi? Up 2 more PSI to 13 is still a lot of fuel! 11 PSI is getting close to some gauges that are not accurate. What is the scale on your gauge? 0 to 15 is way more accurate then say 0 to 60...

I never though about bending the tab and giving it a couple turns tighter?

Is your O2 sensor clean on outside? Have you pulled it to see if it's sooted up? Did that old motor ever use non O2 sensor safe gasket sealer/silicone? You could read the O2 sensor thread for testing procedure on it.

Pull a couple plugs and see what color they are?

I'm really curious of those 2 tests if you have time before making any more changes?

[PJG1173]

read your plugs lately?