I stand corrected... but there's no BPW in this data stream....
I stand corrected... but there's no BPW in this data stream....
1990 Chevy Suburban 5.7L Auto ECM 1227747 $42!
1998 Chevy Silverado 5.7L Vortec 0411 Swap to RoadRunner!
-= =-
not a tool, it's a value you create while editting an ADX. however, as Mark pointed out, the ECM doesn't transmit a BPW value.
i imagine you could hack the datastream though, and replace PROM ID with the injected BPW... just a thought. that is if that is kept on the replaceable PROM and not the other one. (i'm really in the dark on C3s.)
1990 Chevy Suburban 5.7L Auto ECM 1227747 $42!
1998 Chevy Silverado 5.7L Vortec 0411 Swap to RoadRunner!
-= =-
yeah, i've completely reorganized/added/sub'd/etc from the A1 stream when i made it nAst1 to get rid of all of the useless crap, add in interesting stuff, etc...
however, i know next to nothing about the C3 and am not sure of how simple it is on those compared to the P4 units.
the nAst1 project is the culmination of my entire coding knowledge combined with 3 years of being unemployed that i've more or less devoted to learning as many different things as possible.
and to think, it's nowhere near done. the longest term goal is closed loop control of the VVT used on the gen4 60V6 motors (3500/3900).
Guys, I'm so confused. I've got my BPW all the way up to 200 and the BLMs are still high. I saw change in the area around idle, but other areas still climb up to 160-170. Funny thing is that it drives okay. You'd think a ridiculous BPW like that would mess it up. My only guess now is that the pressure regulator is shot and I'm chasing my tail trying to make up for low pressure. Maybe the cells that won't lower with BPW are going static. Do FPRs just go bad sometimes?
When I first fired up the truck, the gauge read 11 PSI. When I stopped driving it was reading about 8 PSI, but everyone says the underhood liquid filled gauges read low when hot, so that might not mean anything. I don't have a way to see the fuel pressure while driving.
Unless you have a bad gauge that is BS!!!
You just proved what I said all along is you don't have enough fuel pressure. You got everything turned up so high you got idle OK but not under load. That is not enough fuel!
Yes regulater diaphrams go bad and the springs crack!
Pinch your return line and see how high pressure goes?
1990 Chevy Suburban 5.7L Auto ECM 1227747 $42!
1998 Chevy Silverado 5.7L Vortec 0411 Swap to RoadRunner!
-= =-
I might actually advise not to do that if you have a low pressure gauge installed! I had a 0-20 psi gauge installed in a T inline to the TB, I was adjusting my FPR to get my pressure up and the max I could get was 13psi. I grabbed some plires and pinched off the return line for just a second and the gauge instantly pegged, and ever since doing that, the needle stopped moving. It just stuck in the middle of the gauge and wouldnt move. I broke it.... I had to go buy a new gauge.
79 Jeep Cherokee, AMC 401, T-18 manual trans, hydroboost, 16197427 MPFI system---the toy
93 Jeep YJ Wrangler, 4.0L, 5 speed, 8.8 rear, homebrew hub conversion and big brakes, hydroboost, 2.5in OME lift, 31x10.50's---the daily driver
99 Jeep WJ Grand Cherokee limited, 4.0L, auto, 2wd, leather and power everything, 99% stock---the long distance highway ride.
I'm going to assume the FPR is bad. What should I buy for a replacement? If I just buy a factory replacement I might end up at 9 PSI. Adjustable is probably my best bet, which one should I get?
OK I should revise my statement to slowly pinch return line and watch pressure rise!
Do the test and make sure it is not fuel pump related first. Then a TBI rebuild kit would have the diaphragm. You may have a broken spring.
You can make your regulator adjustable by drilling out the filling in hole on bottom of regulator. There is a screw in there but if you drill to far you ruin the screw, you can cut a slot in screw to turn with screw driver or find replacement.
http://www.thirdgen.org/tbi-afpr
If you do this leave injector pod off TBI and hook it to your fuel line with pressure gauge in. Turn key on, no start and watch pressure, you only get 2 seconds, or if your fuel pump relay still had a red wire you can power it to run fuel pump and set pressure. Even if you buy an adjustable regulator do this as they are a pain if not impossible to do on TBI. There is one cool one I have seen that has a long knob coming down below throttle body so it can be turned easily while installed, but I forget who makes it.
1990 Chevy Suburban 5.7L Auto ECM 1227747 $42!
1998 Chevy Silverado 5.7L Vortec 0411 Swap to RoadRunner!
-= =-
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