Help pick the correct bin plzz

[dave w]

I own an Ostrich 2.0, which uses a ribbon cable connected to a G1. See attached pictures.

An accomplished tuner will use a Wide Band Oxygen Sensor (WBO2) for ALL EFI System, OBD1, OBD2, and Aftermarket (including the slow learning / auto tuning EFI systems).

dave w

[Ed_p]

I own an Ostrich 2.0, which uses a ribbon cable connected to a G1. See attached pictures.

An accomplished tuner will use a Wide Band Oxygen Sensor (WBO2) for ALL EFI System, OBD1, OBD2, and Aftermarket (including the slow learning / auto tuning EFI systems).

dave w

I appreciate your answer but I'm so not there yet... I can't even get a BIN on a chip... I sent a letter to Moates... we'll see how that goes.. these dipswitches could be the culprit, or perhaps the box is bad... I'm reading the help files within TP to try and gain some knowledge.

Tehse switches should be laberled and a chart made, perhaps once I figure this out I will make such chart... I'd love to get to a point where I could provide some help to knuckleheads like myself

[Ed_p]

I wish I knew what this Ostrich is ... Do I need that too?

[CDeeZ]

I agree. I would never recommend this programming software to anyone.... A person would be 1000 times better off. Buying a stand alone fuel injection system!!!! 900 dollars spent on something you can actually do something with

That's not what I said!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I wish I knew what this Ostrich is ... Do I need that too?

I'll have to let Dave and some of the other guys speak about the Ostrich but it's an emulator and no you don't need one. It's a matter of convenience more than anything.

The ONLY stuff you should need is a chip burner, some chips, and a datalogging cable. You will need a way to get the chips into the ECM/PCM you're working on, either a ZIF socket, a G1 adapter etc.... All the rest of the stuff available is just "extra credit".....

My tuning toolbox for OBD1 is limited compared to someone like Dave. I have a burner, chips and an ALDL cable.

DON'T GIVE UP.... Stick with it and ask questions...... The benefit to learning how to do this yourself vs buying a self tuning standalone is you will develop an understanding of HOW and WHY....... Don't get me wrong some of the standalone systems are great... I for one have to understand how something works which is usually the hard route compared to buying a self tuning setup......

And listen to what Dave is saying about accomplished tuners using a wideband....... IMO it is the ONLY way to go about it..... I never liked using BLMs or fuel trims for tuning OBD1 or OBD2. AND! Dave is nice enough that he has shared his WBO2 spreadsheet with the community!!!!!!!

[CDeeZ]

Here's what I use to tune OBD1.... It should really be all a person needs. Everything else is a nice bonus to have like I said.


Here is the Moates ALDL cable for logging data.


The box on the right with the aluminum panel is an ALDL interface that I made. It serves the same function as the Moates cable next to it but it will be hardwired in the truck permanently.


The PCM I'm working with is a 7427


Here is the chip burner. Note the orientation of the chip in relation to the burner as depicted in the drawing on the sticker.


And here is a 27SF512 chip installed in the burner ready to be written to/erased/read.


Note the notch in the end of the chip. This is important for properly orienting the chip in the burner AND the PCM.


I hardmount WBO2s in a project of this magnitude usually. Using a WBO2 will make your tuning more accurate AND easier.


This is all you really need and the WBO2 is optional but HIGHLY reccommended. Aside from this you just make sure your chip is in the burner correctly, blank check, PUT IN THE CORRECT OFFSETS FOR THE CHIP AND BINARY SIZE YOU'RE WORKING WITH. And program your chip.

[Ed_p]

I got a little further today. I was able to emulate a chip , run the truck on that BIN file, I made changes to Idle speed to make sure I knew what I was doing, commited them to the running config, idle dropped, didn't save file. reloaded, idle was good again. So that tells me that I have established basics. This BIN file is very strange though. I got it off of here. The engine comes out tomorrow so I wont be able to play much until the new beast goes in. In the interim I will be hunting down a BIn file that matches that engine as close as possible...and we'll go from there. I sure wish Moates suggested to buy a HDR1 so I could of used my running BIN file from the truck, damn thing runs so good... I couldn't kill the engine, knowing full well a new one was in the cards, I never changed the oil, filter , nothing, SOB wont die... 20180324_143910.jpg

[CDeeZ]

Engine looks good! Consider a single plane next time. A dual plane is good for street manners with a carburetor since it's dependent on vacuum signal for fuel delivery. EFI doesn't care though!! I put a single plane on my 355 TBI I'm working on and I haven't driven it yet because I'm still working on building the 4L80 for it, but I can tell it's going to rip! I don't expect it to sacrifice one bit of low end with the single plane either.