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Thread: TBI tuning

  1. #16
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    I've got connection, data and can playback. What should I do next? This is getting fun and I'm ready to learn more.

  2. #17
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    dhworkin,

    How you progressing with your learning curve? I'm also new to this kind of stuff so I am interested and going to follow this thread...although somewhat old...to learn along with you.

  3. #18
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    Hey Handyman, I've learned the tunerpro rt program enough to make changes and correct my truck from running rich. dave W helped and was the one that got me into it. I asked questions and got no reply(that happens a lot on this forum) at times but as I learned more, they were stupid questions. At first I watched youtube turtorials and that was confusing, and lead to more ignorant questions. The help tab on the top toolbar in tunerpro rt helped me the most, so I read the help topics and I was on my way to make a few more mistakes, but with the help of this forum I worked it out. I don't know a lot, but I can help with the getting started part of the process, data logging and working with the ostich 2.

  4. #19
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    Thanks for responding. I will be asking for some help shortly as I recently upgraded the 16144288 TBI ECM in my '92 4.3L S10 to a 16168625 TBI PCM out of a '93 4.3L Sierra. I decided to upgrade to a PCM since the 4.3L is semi-modified and would enable more turning. Because tuning is new to me, I wanted to be able to swap back to my stock ECM setup in the event I screwed up something when tuning. Thus, I made an adapter to do this.

    At the moment, I have the adapter and 8625 installed but have a fuel issue. Once I get those issues resolved and embark on making the kinds of changes to the PCM, I will begin asking questions and seeking help.

  5. #20
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    dhworkin, this is just an update. A few weeks ago, I was very fortunate to find someone selling a used but complete Moates APU1 setup on this site. The price was more than reasonable so I jumped at it and was able to get it. This past week, I've been trying to get TunerPro RT to connect with the AutoProm via the serial USB and COM port. Slowly by read and re-reading, as well as clicking on buttons in TP, I am making some progress.

    Once I get this part down pat and have confidence that I know what I'm doing, I want to read, copy, and download the .bin that is currently in the old 16144288 ECM.

    I'm still tracking this thread to see if you have found answers to your problem.

  6. #21
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    57 handyman, yes I've gotten past the connecting problems and have made changes in realtime with my ostrich 2. It's time to do more changes bc I got my a/c working and I'm having idle problems with the compressor on and in drive. I installed dual fans and when the comp is running the voltage drops and the engine tries to stall.

  7. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by dhworkin View Post
    57 handyman, yes I've gotten past the connecting problems and have made changes in realtime with my ostrich 2. It's time to do more changes bc I got my a/c working and I'm having idle problems with the compressor on and in drive. I installed dual fans and when the comp is running the voltage drops and the engine tries to stall.
    I had this same issue with a weak battery. What alternator do you have? And what's your idle speed set to?

  8. #23
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    I was hoping it was the battery, but a new one made no difference. I bought the powermaster 140 and it looks good but no better. After the build I installed a stall converter bc of the cam, so I can have the idle set higher just to keep it from stalling at stops. The iac tested good, but I may change it even though it came new with the SPR performance throttle body I bought. It runs perfect and will idle down to 500(but I set it at 650) if you don't use the a/c. I put it in drive turned a/c on high,high beams on,and then adjusted idle at the throttle body until it stayed running, but it doesn't go as high as you would think since the set screw was turned 4 full turn after initial set. Other than not being able to hear the cam lope as well, the trans down shifts hard in all gears as it comes to a stop. Plus I don't like a rig fix, I want it right.

  9. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by dhworkin View Post
    I was hoping it was the battery, but a new one made no difference. I bought the powermaster 140 and it looks good but no better. After the build I installed a stall converter bc of the cam, so I can have the idle set higher just to keep it from stalling at stops. The iac tested good, but I may change it even though it came new with the SPR performance throttle body I bought. It runs perfect and will idle down to 500(but I set it at 650) if you don't use the a/c. I put it in drive turned a/c on high,high beams on,and then adjusted idle at the throttle body until it stayed running, but it doesn't go as high as you would think since the set screw was turned 4 full turn after initial set. Other than not being able to hear the cam lope as well, the trans down shifts hard in all gears as it comes to a stop. Plus I don't like a rig fix, I want it right.
    You're supposed to set the idle in the bin not with the screw. Then you adjust the screw until your IAC counts are around 10 at idle. I think this may be your problem. If the computer is set at 500rpm and you manually set it to 650rpm it's going to be constantly trying to bring the idle down. That would mess up your timing and IAC....the things that help recover your idle when the engine gets a load.

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