Thanks Bro, I will contact them next week when I am back on the project, good info. The customer just texted me a pic of what he removed when he put the speed sensor in. It was the speedo gear so no reluctor. Should I just put a reluctor on the shaft from a ~'94 4L60E? Are the reluctors the same in the early T700R4 TBI 7747 apps? Or have him get one of those speedo cable adaptors and put the gear back in? (I might have one in stock)
Thanks again, guys, for all the help :)
-Carl
I'm not going to edit my post but I want to apologize for laughing above about the removal of the speedo gear drive. Heck, we all had to start learning somewhere and even though I've been doing EFI tuning since the early 90's, I still learn something new almost every day.
Last edited by In-Tech; 03-07-2020 at 08:51 AM.
-Carl
When I got my stage 2 700r4 it didn't come with any gear on the tail shaft (they rarely do), I ordered one from Amazon, IIRC, and used my OE reluctor. You should be able to get it from Amazon too along with the gear. It's real easy to remove the tail housing, pay attention where the gear is, pull it off, heat up the replacement gear in the oven or boiling water, slide it on to the same position as before, re-install the housing and bolt in the reluctor. FYI, if you jack up the back of the pickup, you won't lose hardly any ATF, you'll lose more when you pull the drive line. Another way would be to use a GPS.
https://www.dakotadigital.com/index....rod/prd837.htm
Thanks for the link. I won't need that on this project but I have a Ford Coyote in a '40 Ford to work on soon and the customer wants the cruise control to work. We're not sure what computer we will use yet but that device might come in handy.
-Carl
-Carl
If there's no mechanical speedometer then I'd probably opt for all electronic components, unless the cost to do so is crazy high. IOW if you need two or three converters all purchased at retail price to make this work, go with mechanical. But the reluctor is interchangeable with the plastic gear, with a small exception that later shafts are not always drilled for the gear retaining clip. The hole in the tailshaft housing can be different depending on whether you had a gear driver, gear driven electronic sensor, or a reluctor. Details, details.
Just to satisfy my own curiousity. When putting dip switches on the vssb do you use 2 sets of dip switches or just the bank on the right?
-Carl
As I remember it the double jumpers are not redundant. If you look at factory calibrated VSSB units there are always seven jumpers. If you place a jumper on the right then you have a matching open on the left. If you have an open on the right there must be a jumper on the left. I would use 14 DIP switches.
Thanks bud, from memory I think it says the left is mirror opposite of right. I'll look at the vssb I have. I picked up a couple at the junkyard for 5.99 each the other day.
-Carl
1995 GMC K2500 SUBURBAN 2001 LB7 DURAMAX/ALLISON swap, mostly stock, tuned by me with EFILive
1999 Tahoe 2 door 2X4, 5.7l with 0411 swap, and marine intake
Interesting. I guess you've never had to have a divide ratio below 1.00? I bet most people use lower gears and not higher, just for fun I calculated a 2.56 gear with ~30" tire and the divisor was ~.55 It's Bonneville time with a DRAC module
I've got a couple to solder up and have 7 pos switches so I'll use them. I did notice it's going to be a tight fit.
-Carl
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