Having those spark plug wires so close to the ECM wiring is not helping. Probably getting a good bit of inductive coupling to the low voltage signal wires running to the ecm.
Having those spark plug wires so close to the ECM wiring is not helping. Probably getting a good bit of inductive coupling to the low voltage signal wires running to the ecm.
Good point. Thanks.
Take a look at the vacuum elbow at the TB on the passenger side. It's the one below the bigger line that goes to the valve cover. A common one to get brittle. Just noticed mine last weekend. The good fix is to use an old spark plug boot off the original 7mm wires. Which i just threw out a couple months ago... :( As a temp, i just coated with some black rtv.
Yep, that elbow was split. Already plugged up. I think it may be the iac but Im getting tired of throwing parts at it without being sure. $$ I can get idle down by partially covering the triangular air opening between the throttle blades with my thumb.
Anyone know how to check the iac? It ohms out ok but it would be nice to be able to power it open and closed and check the plunger depth vs the bore depth. Seems like 5v on rt pins and lt pins would do it but not sure. Thanks.
How long was it running? Can't make out the time. Temps look cold. The IAC steps at 127 is making it idle high.
the IAC is jacked wide open but you're above target idle, probably because your tps needs to be 0% at idle (it isn't trying to control idle at all), your TPS is 1.6%. close your throttle blades all of the way so they're almost stuck in the bore.
this may be due to a wiring fault or interference, , meaning TPS voltage may be unstable?
the LT1 ecm usually finds 0% tps by minimum voltage without issues, so unhook the battery for a bit to reset the ECM memory. then start it while giving it no throttle. it should self-calibrate.
yes, eehack 'control' section, check idle 'steps', then idle 'override', you can move the pintle that way.Anyone know how to check the iac? It ohms out ok but it would be nice to be able to power it open and closed and check the plunger depth vs the bore depth.
another thing for that tps reading, without the engine running, move the throttle from closed to wide open a few times really slowly while logging, then graph 'throttle position'. it should be smooth with no dropouts or spikes, and return back to exactly zero every time. i designed eehack to be stupid easy to diagnose this kind of stuff with. you can also graph raw tps voltage instead of percentage by selecting view level 'extended' and looking for TPSVOLTS.
.. graphing stuff usually finds the cause of problems for me
It was cold. Ran a few min. Didn't get any better as it warmed up. I forced closed loop it started to settle down then the injector pw hit 9.5 and had to shut it down.
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