So basicly 12 volts has to be "pulsed" to either extend or retract it? Like grounding one wire, then quickly touching and releaseing the other to a hot wire?
I have a couple spare ones from a old dodge tb, I may play with them, if I burn it up there is no loss...lol
79 Jeep Cherokee, AMC 401, T-18 manual trans, hydroboost, 16197427 MPFI system---the toy
93 Jeep YJ Wrangler, 4.0L, 5 speed, 8.8 rear, homebrew hub conversion and big brakes, hydroboost, 2.5in OME lift, 31x10.50's---the daily driver
99 Jeep WJ Grand Cherokee limited, 4.0L, auto, 2wd, leather and power everything, 99% stock---the long distance highway ride.
My test bench is not running, I'm in the middle of building a harness or I would check for you. Pretty sure 12 volts will burn it up. It's a 5 volt signal... IIRC
1990 Chevy Suburban 5.7L Auto ECM 1227747 $42!
1998 Chevy Silverado 5.7L Vortec 0411 Swap to RoadRunner!
-= =-
Ahh, good to know.
79 Jeep Cherokee, AMC 401, T-18 manual trans, hydroboost, 16197427 MPFI system---the toy
93 Jeep YJ Wrangler, 4.0L, 5 speed, 8.8 rear, homebrew hub conversion and big brakes, hydroboost, 2.5in OME lift, 31x10.50's---the daily driver
99 Jeep WJ Grand Cherokee limited, 4.0L, auto, 2wd, leather and power everything, 99% stock---the long distance highway ride.
This article explains pretty well how the various types work: http://www.megamanual.com/ms2/IAC.htm. Just read around the megasquirt configuration stuff that you dont care about :)
- Frank
A stepper motor like the IAC need to have power and ground applied to different terminals to make the armature turn a complete revolution. Look at the gm wiring diagram for your system and you'll see two connections for coil A and coil B. Each of these needs to be connected to 12V in turn on order to make the IAC move. When the ECM shows IAC counts, that's how many times the ecm has applied power to one or the other coils to make the IAC move. I have an old tool made by Thexton but I couldn't find it in their current tool lineup. Here's a thread that gives a homegrown way to check the IAC: http://www.chevytalk.org/fusionbb/sh...96c4b37436442/ There's also a mention of an OTC3320 IAC tester but I really think those old tools are only going to show up in Ebay auctions or swap meets now.
You sure it's 12 volt? I wasn't... then read the IAC procedure .pdf and it says do not apply 12 volt... ?
1990 Chevy Suburban 5.7L Auto ECM 1227747 $42!
1998 Chevy Silverado 5.7L Vortec 0411 Swap to RoadRunner!
-= =-
I tried this procedure and when the A/B pins were shorted the IAC made noise and never stopped. Just kept sort of buzzing. Well, I didn't wait forever, but 30 seconds or so. Should it take a long time to bottom out, or is something wrong with my IAC?
Also, you specifically said to have almost no pressure on the return line. Why is that important? I've never checked it, but I am using a section of my original 1/4" steel return line, which may be on the thin side.
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