Need bin: 5.7 TBI 4L80E, vortec heads, headers, duals, 1.6 ratio rockers, stock cam

[wanderingturtle]

I've got a 94 G30 van with 5.7 TBI, 4L80E. I just put Vortec heads on it, the intake from Summit that uses TBI on Vortec heads, knock-off Doug Thorley tri-Y headers, dual exhaust with flowmaster 50 series mufflers. EGR is connected. Scorpion 1.6 ratio full roller rockers. Stock cam. Going for torque and highway mileage. Oh and I did the convert stock fuel pressure regulator to be adjustable thing and adjusted it to the highest pressure, but I haven't hooked a gauge up yet. And a 3-wire O2 sensor conversion.

So I don't start form scratch, anyone got a bin that would be good for my needs? I already know that I need to adjust the fuel enrichment parameters, since from the little bit of logging I did, it seems to run rich at idle but lean when revving.

Other than a good bin to start for this combination, what else should I look at modifying for starters?

Thanks in advance!

Oh and I borrowed power for the O2 sensor from the ignition-on hot wire to coil/distributor, and thoughts about that?

[wanderingturtle]

Oh and I have the 7427 PCU and a 8625 PCU to work with.

[dave w]

I posted an excel spreadsheet with the timing table from a 1998 Vortec engine here; http://www.gearhead-efi.com/Fuel-Inj...-Throttle-ONLY!

dave w

[wanderingturtle]

Right on, thank you! See, I didn't even know that spark advance was one of the main things to tune. I though fuel would be the main thing. I'm starting to think that I don't even know how much I don't know.

Thank you!

[Fast355]

Right on, thank you! See, I didn't even know that spark advance was one of the main things to tune. I though fuel would be the main thing. I'm starting to think that I don't even know how much I don't know.

Thank you!

Spark, Fuel and Transmission. I would not even try to run the Vortec stock spark map. I put a good timing map in my Express van Vortec 350 and it really woke it up.

[89S10_Project]

Following this thread as it will shortly be relevant to my project- I'm considering the 4l60e or 4l80e transmissions with my 5.7

[wanderingturtle]

So out of the changes I've made, other than the Vortec heads obviously, which if any of the others make much difference on how the bin needs to be set? I would think the 1.6 ratio rockers would make a difference, since the valves are opening more. I would think the headers and intake would also be letting more air through. Will this affect how the timing needs to be, or just fuel? And what all parameters of fuel do I need to worry about?

Thank you for any help, I'm new to this. I have done some searching and reading and figured out most of this on my own, but I'm still really un-educated about the finer points. Any and all help is appreciated.

[wanderingturtle]

I put a good timing map in my Express van Vortec 350 and it really woke it up.

Would you be willing to share your bin file?

[dave w]

I'll go on record as saying "Using the Stock Vortec Timing Table IS NOT A BAD PLAN". Sure, there are likely other modified Vortec type timing tables that are good / better / best options. For a starting .bin file, the stock Vortec timing will likely not provide the optimal all out performance. Using the stock Vortec timing will get the "Ball Rolling in the Right Direction" for tuning purposes.

I'll go on record as saying "Using the Stock TBI Timing Table IS NOT a GOOD PLAN".

dave w

[Fast355]

Stock Vortec timing map will result in a gas hungry SLUG. LT1 B-car is a better starting point than the stock Vortec. Ramjet crate engine also has a good timing map to it.

Finally this is my go to table for everything Vortec headed and slight tweaks from there.

[wanderingturtle]

Looks to run more advanced than the TBI table, I think.

[Fast355]

Looks to run more advanced than the TBI table, I think.

Almost 10° across the board and more in some places, less in others.

I usually set the distributor at 10° to make cold starts easier and let the engime run better should the EST system become disabled. Set the initial timing value to 10° in the .bin too.

[wanderingturtle]

Ok holy crap there is a lot to learn about all this. My engine runs but crappy. I have set too much AE, it gets very rich when AE is active, over 900 mV on the O2 sensor, then leans out after that to really low. O2 sensor output is ok at around 700 when at steady throttle and driving. I'm trying to figure out what to do and I'm learning slowly the more I read.

I know I would benefit from a WBO2 sensor, and I'm going to pick one up in the morning. I still need to figure out if I can run it instead of the normal O2 sensor or if I need to get another O2 sensor bung welded in and run both.

I think I need to adjust VE tables, and I just found out where I think those are (BPW parameters) a few minutes ago, and I still need to figure out what and how to adjust that.

Not many questions right now, but anything you might want to comment and contribute to my learning (and maybe preventing me from damaging my engine) would be muchly appreciated.

Onwards with the old thread reading and learning!

[dave w]

I would recommend adding another O2 sensor bung, and use two O2 sensors (single wire Narrow Band O2 and the WBO2).

I posted information on tuning with a WBO2 here: http://www.gearhead-efi.com/Fuel-Inj...-Band-O2-(WBO2

dave w

[89S10_Project]

I'm right there with you, Wanderingturtle, and the last two posts have answered a few of my questions regarding the O2 sensors I need. Luckily in my build I have a bung in the driver's manifold and in the crossover pipe. I'm putting the single wire in the factory position (crossover junction at bellhousing) and the WBO2 at the driver's manifold.

Man you aren't kidding about lots to learn. My goal is to run an ostrich setup with a 7247 on my 5/7 with 700R4. I have a looooong way to go!