Any an all advice is appreciated!

**dnarby** · 09-13-2016

OK! Been tinkering with this for awhile in my spare time (to get it street legal, install fan solenoids, oil/temp gauges, replace rear diff fluid, etc.). Finally got it out on the road, and it's a really fun car to drive, EXCEPT...

It does not shift out of second. First to second, second to first is fine, operates in drive or manually. Previous owner said it shifted normally, so I'm guessing I don't have something hooked up somewhere. At least I can still drive it around town, LOL!

If anyone could point me in the right direction to troubleshoot this I will be indebted.

**dnarby** · 09-13-2016

Two things that could be important to know:

I basically rewired the ignition and fuel system from scratch using the schematic.

When installing a mechanical oil pressure gauge, I removed the distributor. Although I was careful to mark it before removal, on re-installation I was off by one tooth and it wouldn't idle, so I turned the distributor until it did. I assumed as this has an electronically controlled ignition, it could just be 'close enough' and the computer would adjust for it. It currently runs strong & smooth in first and second.

**89S10_Project** · 09-14-2016

What a great project. I've been considering building one of these myself.

The fan is a dual speed unit, likely from a Taurus. Black is common, and you get two speeds- 1 for each of the other leads.

I'd use a SPAL fan controller relay, can provide a part number if you like. There is also a Volvo factory part, not sure what it came in though. You want more than just a 30 amp relay, as inrush current is in the neighborhood of 70 amps with the Taurus fan.

If you can take a pic of the fan I can verify the above. I used the Taurus fan assembly in the first version of my build, to cool a similar drivetrain (5.7/700R4) in an S10 Blazer. It worked well enough till the fan ate the radiator (my fault, I only had a quarter inch of space between the two and knew I needed more). The fan controller worked fine but the pigtail I had was broken and I had no luck locating a replacement so I went with the SPAL controllers and a less power-hungry dual, dual-speed, fan assembly out of a 97 Intrepid, which fits my stock Chevy S10 4.3L V6 radiator like a glove. Fun fact, the 4.3 radiator is actually larger than the recommended 80's Vette radiator which was recommended for the swap. So far it cools the truck without issue, though admittedly I have yet to commute long-term with it (truck has been laid up for about a year with cascading suspension projects- I ordered tires thinking I had clearance for 35s... I didn't. It was then a series of projects to go spring-over-axle, highsteer, etc). I have an alternator that is nominal at the moment, and I've got the parts on order to install an (145+ Amp) AD244 in place of the (105 Amp on a very good day) CS130 in order to keep up with my winches and comms gear. I will be completing that this weekend and using the truck as my daily driver starting Monday.

As for the trans, it may come down to you missing a shift solenoid wire or two in your rewire job. Google, and Youtube, are your friends. I suspect you know this, though. A shame you don't live in the Charleston, SC area- I'd love to help with this.

You may consider buying the Jaguars That Run swap manual as a sort of reference point for backengineering the build for future reference. That's what I did (they have multiple swap books for Chevy truck engines into S10s, Jags, Datsun 280ZX, Volvo sedans, Chevy Astros, etc). Additionally they have a seperate manual for upgrading to TPI, that I'm ordering soon.

**dnarby** · 09-14-2016

Hi 89S10_Project,

The fan is a Volvo, and I've got it mostly sorted. 30A is fine for each speed (I used an inline fuse holder to test it, it didn't blow a 30A, so should be fine). I'm using a Haynes temperature sensor to run one relay, and will use a switch to run the other. This way if it gets too hot or the Haynes unit fails, I can flip a switch.

I started reading and thinking about how these electronic transmissions work and agree with you, I probably missed a connection in the rewire. Going to look there first.

It's a fun car to drive, gobs of torque compared to a regular Volvo wagon. Sounds good when you punch it from a standing start too...

**89S10_Project** · 09-14-2016

Originally Posted by dnarby

Hi 89S10_Project,

The fan is a Volvo, and I've got it mostly sorted. 30A is fine for each speed (I used an inline fuse holder to test it, it didn't blow a 30A, so should be fine). I'm using a Haynes temperature sensor to run one relay, and will use a switch to run the other. This way if it gets too hot or the Haynes unit fails, I can flip a switch.

Be advised- I've been modifying vehicles for quite some time, and the Haynes thermocontroller units are known to be not very dependable. I'd keep a close eye on things, or if you're more inclined to build it and forget it, go with the SPAL- they're relatively inexpensive as well (though you will need to work in a sense mechanism- I like the BMW dual-zone temp switches, personally).

Originally Posted by dnarby

It's a fun car to drive, gobs of torque compared to a regular Volvo wagon. Sounds good when you punch it from a standing start too...

Don't I know it! My truck still isn't tuned completely, but I have plenty of torque down low, right where it's needed. Plus, as you mentioned, there's that growl/howl as you get on it from low RPMs- very much akin to one of those old car chase movies. I'm actually curious what it is that makes that sound- I'd always heard it was the secondaries kicking in on a carb'd engine, but pretty sure we don't have secondaries in a TBI. Regardless, I love it!

**dnarby** · 09-14-2016

Originally Posted by 89S10_Project

Be advised- I've been modifying vehicles for quite some time, and the Haynes thermocontroller units are known to be not very dependable. I'd keep a close eye on things, or if you're more inclined to build it and forget it, go with the SPAL- they're relatively inexpensive as well (though you will need to work in a sense mechanism- I like the BMW dual-zone temp switches, personally).

Agreed, and I put the temperature gauge front and center so as to easily keep an eye on it (although I eventually to relocate the temp sender as it's near where the heater core valve should be and reads ~15degF cooler than the temp at the radiator). I may eventually wire up a "COOLANT RELAY FAILURE" light, as the relay will be DPDT (DTDP?) so that when the relay isn't tripped, I can wire it so a light will come on (although that may prove annoying as it will oscillate on and off).

Either way, I have a secondary relay I can flip a switch to turn the fan on with as well.

**89S10_Project** · 09-14-2016

Originally Posted by dnarby

Agreed, and I put the temperature gauge front and center so as to easily keep an eye on it (although I eventually to relocate the temp sender as it's near where the heater core valve should be and reads ~15degF cooler than the temp at the radiator). I may eventually wire up a "COOLANT RELAY FAILURE" light, as the relay will be DPDT (DTDP?) so that when the relay isn't tripped, I can wire it so a light will come on (although that may prove annoying as it will oscillate on and off).

Either way, I have a secondary relay I can flip a switch to turn the fan on with as well.

Interesting idea. I will use cheap relays for non-critical systems on my vehicles, but the critical stuff gets Bosche, at least- and typically rated at twice the current they're handling.

**Nasty-Z** · 09-14-2016

Or simply parallel relays to provide a fail safe ......

I like the idea of a fan in operation light , I have two in the switch panel in my Blazer , one for each fan. Only thing they will not tell you is if the motor craps the bed , that is what the Water temp Pro lite is for .

As for the trans , are you sure there is a definite 1-2 shift ? Only reason I ask is default gears on a 4L80E is second and reverse with no operation of the shift solenoids , meaning no power (+12v) to the trans , or no communication with the PCM and the trans.

TOM