if the dist turns the opposite direction from the engine you took it out of you need to reverse the green and white wire from the pick up coil to make it function right.other wise it will retard timming spark and I think injector firing.
if the dist turns the opposite direction from the engine you took it out of you need to reverse the green and white wire from the pick up coil to make it function right.other wise it will retard timming spark and I think injector firing.
90% of All GM V4 V6 V8 turn Clock Wise and so does the DistributorOriginally Posted by ony
The engine that I have is a counter rotating motor. It has a gear to gear timing. With the gear to gear timing the only direction that is change is the crank direction. the cam and the distributor both still turn clockwise while the crank and external components turn counter clockwise.
But on the other hand.
I have replaced the faulty pickup coil actually just replaced the whole the distributor.
I have increased the time of running from 2-3 seconds to about 5-7 seconds.
On initial crank. The engine bust off nice and easy. Runs for about 7 seconds now.
I have watch the conical spray of the tbi it is nice and round and strong spraying until the engine starts to die then it starts to thin out.
It seems as if the initial crank bypasses the main computer then engine cranks runs up to 1000 rpms then dies out
Is there something I am missing.
if you have a noid light see if the injectors are pulsing as the engine dies. if you have 15 lbs of pressure and it dies I would look at the grounds that hook to the ecm and make sure they are on the right pins.
Wonder what the chances are that there are cold solder joints on the pins of the injector drivers ECM.
I forgot, see if you still have 15lbs as the engine dies also if you have your pump wired direct.
The harness is from PFIsys.com.
I I do not have a noid light. But I can check to see if I can find one.
OK here is what has happened so far.
Noid Light hooked up and while cranking and attempting to run lights flash.
Ignition on coil voltage is 12.96
Coil while cranking 11.84
Removed one of my water/fuel seperators and fuel pressure went from 15 psi to 18 psi even while cranking
Now strange part. I removed the tach lead that goes to my tach and it seems it wants to run longer but it still dies now in about 10 secs
Only sensors being used is the
tps
o2
iac
map
ect
It holds 15 lbs for about 30-45 seconds after it dies
I have zero experience with tbi but could you just need to tune it? like the cranking fule is correct but the idle ve or coolant temp table off a lot?
have you tried the old trick of running it off starter fluid to see if it stay running? how do the plugs look?
Have not tried that. I will try that this evening when I get off work.
Basically ly all I do is remove injector connectors and spray and start and continue to spray a little to keep running.
Also so I have not messed with any programming on the ecm. It is all stock.
you could disconnect the injector but I doubt it matters. just have someone fire it up and be ready with the spray, just use short bursts and see if it stays running. don't over use the stuff. you might get a back fire. should be pretty easy to tell if wants to keep running.
ok so after removing the injector connectors and having my daughter crank the engine I was able to keep engine running for about 20 or 30 seconds.
Didn't want to run much longer do to no water running in exhaust
that's good. sounds like you just need to start tuning. again, I know nothing about this ecm tbi tuning, so you might wanna find a thread about the logical order to start tuning it.
without knowing that, I'd probably find the coolent temp map, throw some more fuel at it there as a temp to get it up to operatiing temperature and start on the base Ve table
I think steveo works on boats mybe he will have a suggestion.
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