I did check several times the time chain position, the chain is stretched of course but is less than half a spocket tooth. I was concerned but didn't have the money at time I was replacing couple valve seals (long story as out gasket kit) and didn't thing it was enough to condem chain.
I I found some before and after pics of head and took some of supercharger and turbo, turbo #says its from a 340hp flat 6 air plane engine. Benz charger is still in car.
Pic of intake is all most exactly like mine except mine has a larger plenum. Runners look small too!!! I will get the before and after pics of head up in a bit. The intake ports on the head look larger than that intake by a good amount, I wish I would have put a tape measure in the pic!!!!!
Ok so I can't get the pictures off my old phone and it won't load the to this site.
The pics of intake ports look like they are bigger than the exhaust ports after I ported them.
Question; this .bin has egr parameters and egr spark correction tables, I also read that the cams need to stay as matched pair for emissions. Are these things for passive egr?? Because there was no egr valve on this engine.
I am also replacing timing chain, tensioner and stuff. Having a low oil pressure issue when heat soaked, suspect cam towers are warped, head was but heat straighted, hopefully they didn't mill it to much, making timing chain to long, gonna find a high volume oil pump too if I can.
Wil index cams while I have apart to see exactly what I'm working with.
I have this thread saved on my phone so when I replace cam towers, chain, oil pump ect I will take intake off and check out what you are saying about measuring black in intake. Clean and run again. It has a 4-2-1 stock header but 1 and 4 tubes are not same length as each other or 2 and 3 which are equal. Should I make an equal length 4-2-1 exhaust, it would b easy! The intakes are equal.
Anyway thank you for replying and helping sorry it takes me so long to respond!!
Last edited by BigBanks78; 05-31-2016 at 06:32 PM.
Ok so I didn't turn off egr when I tuned ve table. But here are those pics Attachment 10590 Attachment 10591 Attachment 10592 Attachment 10593 Attachment 10594
Last edited by BigBanks78; 06-15-2016 at 01:20 AM.
Attachment 10596 Attachment 10597
How do these affect the other tables? Do they add to the spark table and injector pulse width??
Does this chart mean that the crankshaft is advanced 15 degrees? If so that would be for passive egr and the reason I have egr parameters but no egr valve??
I have a 1990 vin D
Attachment 10634
GM changed the position of the DIS notches in order to improve starting. AFAIK they did not change the crank / cam relationship so the crank is not actually advanced. The EGR tables generally reduce fuel when EGR is active but unless the EGR is active, the tables won't be used. If you have no EGR then disable the EGR in the .bin and use the VE and timing tables to tune with any "passive" egr built into the engine.
Ok that makes sense :-) I'm still not sure how all these tables, parameters ect ect work with the ve and spark tables but I get the egr stuff now. I'm guessing it will be the same with other pids that deal with spark, ve and bpw, adding to main tables??
I'm still confused about the correction tables. What does a high number of correction do compared to a low number of correction? Like when a table has a high number of correction at a low coolant temp and as the temp climbs the correction number value gets less and less, for example the ae correction vs coolant temp? Does that mean it's adding more fuel at higher correction value than at lower correction values?
Generally fuel corrections add fuel when cold and remove it as the engine or air temp warms, except that some of the earlier cals added fuel at the highest engine temps to help cooling. AE correction should decrease as intake and engine temperature warms because warmer air is less dense and contains less oxygen.
This 1 does get really rich when hot. I was reading about mods people have done on quad4forums.com and found some using 170*f thermostats, my info says stock is 195*f so I used the stock temp. I have a 160f thermostat (couldn't find 170) and a very large aluminum radiator in it as of last weekend, fan turns on at 75*C off at 70 or so. I'm really just playin around till I get time and space to swap cam towers. Driving it around the last week in 95-100*f fairly humid weather I haven't had the crappy drivability, crappy power and back firing when shifting after its heat soaked but I didn't see it get to 200 degrees, 188-195 before. Of Coarse oil pressure doesn't drop as low either after about ten miles on highway. Anyway stupid me for running a marginal cooling system, hopefully that will solve an issue or two some where else.
I figured that was how they worked but without someone telling me I would be assuming and that gets me in trouble Plus my brain won't let me work on an assumption!
Haven't had time to swap timing chain and stuff yet but read a thread where guy said timing was voodoo so I been playing with timing. I started over with HO 5 speed been bout a month ago and swapped in my timing tables and VE tables. I have got timing table way different and have got the VE table higher than stock in a couple areas. The HO VE table was quite a bit lower than the LO VE table I started with but HO looks to have lil more BPW, I haven't learned much about pulse width yet. I'll post the compares in a bit.
Attachment 10791Attachment 10792Attachment 10793Attachment 10794
1st timing, mine compared to stock LO auto trans + 6 miles traffic history. 2nd mine compared to HO 5speed. 3rd mine to LO auto. 4th mine.....with knock retard set at 0, I watch knock history table!!! It reads 1 knock even from a missed gear retard stays on till cycle key off. It runs pretty good with only intermittent knock. No constant knock in any 1 cell, I can drive it hard with no knock if I don't mis a gear (my shift pattern is upside down :-)
Attachment 10797Attachment 10798Attachment 10799Attachment 10800
Last edited by BigBanks78; 07-21-2016 at 05:31 PM.
Ok got cams degreed. Intake opens at 36 degrees btdc and exhaust closes 24 degrees atdc. Cams both have 3.77 lift, exhaust cam has 266 duration and intake cam has 274 duration zero to zero. I drilled out the hole in intake sprocket for retainer pin, it just so happens that small block Chevy offset cam degree bushings fit, so I retarded the intake with the most offset bushing. The cam cover is easy to remove so I can change pretty quick, I've read these engines don't like low rpm so gonna try this see what happens.
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