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Thread: What does a good data log look like?

  1. #1
    Carb and Points!
    Join Date
    Oct 2015
    Location
    St. George Utah
    Age
    57
    Posts
    4

    What does a good data log look like?

    Does anyone have or could post what a good data log would look like with something similar to what I have? I have a 93 4.3 CPI running $E6 custom tune and I am getting an idle surge issue. This being my first go at custom tune/reprogramming I am not familiar with what my data log from TunerPro RT should look like. I didn't do the actual tune such as reprogram the chip and I'm still learning if and how I can copy the .bin.
    I'm not interested in changing anything (at least for now) but mainly trying to resolve my problem. what I need is:

    -Coolant Temperature
    -IAC Present Motor Position
    -Integrator (INT)
    -Knock Retard
    -MAP (kpa)
    -O2 Sensor (volts)
    -Spark Advance
    -Tachometer or Engine Speed / RPM
    -TPS Voltage

    I'm hoping someone has something on the computer they grab and post up without to much trouble. This way I have something to compare and find anomalies on my data log. If you have something I would be most grateful.


  2. #2
    Fuel Injected!
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
    Location
    Tulsa, Ok
    Age
    48
    Posts
    457
    Having a "custom" tune, it's impossible to say what normal values should be. Has then engine itself been modified?

    Idle surge can sometimes be attributed to spark timing so I would look at the Spark Advance monitor. I'm not sure what a "normal" advance is for your setup so I can't help you there but if it seems high(like 15* or more at idle) then it may be an issue.

    Knock retard should likely be Zero unless you are experiencing spark knock.

    Coolant temp depends on what temp thermostat you have install. Is it factory 195? If so they usually run around 190-205*F

    IAC position will depend and the bin. And the IAC position will change as the engine temp changes, like when it reaches say operating temp(~190*F) the IAC counts will be different then they are at 60*F. So to determine what the counts should be, is almost impossible to say but around 10 +/- 3 is a good start.

    Integrator, usually 128 is target +/- 7.

    Map, it's gonna depend on the engine condition/any modifications. Off hand I can't remember what a normal value is but I think maybe between 4-8" at idle but don't quote me on that.

    O2s, Ideally it would be around 500mv(actually ~450mv) but a properly working sensor should swing from low to high(100mv-900mv). No set number it should be on, and if it is stuck at one value or a very narrow range of mv, say 300mv-350mv for example. This could be due to an overly lean condition, or a contaminated or inoperative sensor.

    Engine RPM, this too varies like, and corresponding to IAC position. Depending on if you're automatic or manual trans, it will vary. With that said, normal ranges for RPM at idle 550-750RPM+/-.

    TPS volts should be 045vdc minimum, upwards of 0.75vdc max at idle.

    Hope this helps,

    Buddrow
    If it don't fit force it, if it don't force fit f&%@ it!

  3. #3
    Carb and Points!
    Join Date
    Oct 2015
    Location
    St. George Utah
    Age
    57
    Posts
    4
    I know this reply is a little slow and the thread old but the reason I asked is because I have a 93 GM 4.3 CMFI transplanted in a CJ7 that is running rich that I can't figure out why...
    I have looked at everything I can think of but my INT and BLM are settled at around 108, the H2OS is >850mV and the exhaust is obviously rich. After a drive DTC 45 is set.

    I have:
    Reinstalled the original PCM and get the same condition.
    Checked H2OS by grounding to get less than .350mV
    Double checked fuel pressure
    Replaced CMFI spider injection assembly and again checked for leaking
    double checked fuel pressure regulator and for a clear fuel return line

    Disconnected MAP for PCM value read
    Checked the HO2S heater wire and system is working
    No Fuel canister purge installed

    TP sensor output correct and solid
    ECT correct and verified

    I tend to believe something is adding EMI as references pulses but I can’t see anything obvious like broken wires or incorrect grounds in the ignition system I could have missed something. How sensitive is the system?

    What does the data log report for the Injector pulse width? What does the PCM send or can it read actual injector pulse? Is there a way to test that?

    I am open to any other ideas at all and any help would be appreciated!

    Thanks!
    Last edited by Junker2; 10-18-2016 at 11:40 PM.

  4. #4
    Carb and Points!
    Join Date
    May 2017
    Posts
    1
    Quote Originally Posted by Junker2 View Post
    I know this reply is a little slow and the thread old but the reason I asked is because I have a 93 GM 4.3 CMFI transplanted in a CJ7 that is running rich that I can't figure out why...
    I have looked at everything I can think of but my INT and BLM are settled at around 108, the H2OS is >850mV and the exhaust is obviously rich. After a drive DTC 45 is set.

    I have:
    Reinstalled the original PCM and get the same condition.
    Checked H2OS by grounding to get less than .350mV
    Double checked fuel pressure
    Replaced CMFI spider injection assembly and again checked for leaking
    double checked fuel pressure regulator and for a clear fuel return line

    Disconnected MAP for PCM value read
    Checked the HO2S heater wire and system is working
    No Fuel canister purge installed

    TP sensor output correct and solid
    ECT correct and verified

    I tend to believe something is adding EMI as references pulses but I can’t see anything obvious like broken wires or incorrect grounds in the ignition system I could have missed something. How sensitive is the system?

    What does the data log report for the Injector pulse width? What does the PCM send or can it read actual injector pulse? Is there a way to test that?

    I am open to any other ideas at all and any help would be appreciated!

    Thanks!
    OK granted this post is over six months old. Have you checked that the injectors are the original type/model? Whatever injectors that are in your engine may not correspond to what the ECU thinks and/or programmed for.

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