Would someone be so kind as to provide a comprehensive sequential step by step instruction to set up emulation with TunerPro. Please advise. Thanks.
Would someone be so kind as to provide a comprehensive sequential step by step instruction to set up emulation with TunerPro. Please advise. Thanks.
What hardware are you using?
The man who says something is impossible, is usually interrupted by the man doing it.
Hardware being used is Moates APU1 Autoprom. PCM is 16197427 0D. Abreviated checklist would be nice. Pictures would be better. Please advise. Thanks.Originally Posted by Six_Shooter
Do you have specific questions about the APU1 information from the Moates.net website http://support.moates.net/autoprom-apu1/ or specific question about the APU1 videos on YouTube https://www.youtube.com/user/craigmo...A878598D87BA29 ?
I use an Ostrich 2.0.
dave w
Last edited by dave w; 03-13-2016 at 01:20 AM.
Dave: Thanks much for the response and links. First, the engine is on the run-in stand as yet. The PCM has a harness fabbed by Howell for a BBC. BBC throttle body, and internal fuel regulator, adapted to 4 barrel manifold. First the battery is connected supplying battery power to PCM. Turn on toggle switch for key on, no start. Then Laptop setup with TunerPro and altered binary loaded. Upload binary file to APU1/Ostrich less the chip. Then hit the starter momentary toggle switch and start the engine. Alternator on, electric cooling fan on. Don't know whether the binary file will be retained or lost in the APU1/Ostrich. If SES light comes on, then upload binary file to APU1/Ostrich AGAIN. Then proceed to tune engine on the fly via TunerPro. Don't understand if changes to TunerPro are automatically transferred to APU1 and binary in it is being used by the PCM. Need whatever clarification to this. Keeping in mind that there is NO DYNAMIC load on the engine on the run-in stand. Therefore, only partial, idle and light load, tuning can be done. Just enough to get it to idle proper once in the pickup truck. From there, will need to tune on the fly running down the road to get a more appropriate tune. Repeat until good tune. May have missed something here. Please advise. Thanks.
There might some differences between the Ostrich 2.0 that I use vs. APU1?
I usually upload a .bin file to the Ostrich 2.0 with "Ignition On / Engine Off", maybe APU1 can do the same?
I enable "Emulation" in TunerPro RT once the engine is running when I want to make real time changes with the Ostrich.
The .bin in the Ostrich will remain unchanged, until a new .bin is uploaded.
dave w
Would have to talk with Dave Blundell at Moates to find out the technical differences between the Ostrich and APU1. Looked at Moates and looks like Ostrich not set up to connect to ALDL vehicle connector. After some thought, likely once the power for the APU1 circuitry comes from the Laptop USB port. Same for Ostrich. Once the .bin file uploaded to APU1/Ostrich, the USB power will sustain RAM in the APU1/Ostrich. Then start up the engine under test. Then select emulate which will allow changes to .bin contained within APU1/Ostrich. Once satisfied with .bin changes, down load new .bin from APU1/Ostrich to Laptop and assign new .bin file name. Then reflash PROM with new .bin and install in PCM. Then verify changes with ALDL connected. The APU1 will allow emulation and .bin changes to be made during a test drive on the fly along with datalogged file. Suspect this is somewhat the procedure. Comments please. Thanks.
I use both an ALDL cable and the Ostrich 2.0 to real time tune (emulate).
I think the process is about the same for Ostrich 2.0 vs APU1, but maybe not identical mouse click by mouse click APU1 vs. Ostrich 2.0.
I think if you had an Ostrich 2.0 like I do, I would be a good resource for helping you with a mouse click by mouse click procedure.
Hopefully, someone with an APU1 will help with the mouse click by mouse click help you are seeking?
dave w
Getting really frustrated with the Emulation. Found binary file "Mask ID" under "Scalers" still set to "0D". Set it to "AA". This is one item that should be on a checklist for "Emulation". Don't know if "Check Sum" needs to be altered. Need to form a Checklist such that EACH time trying to Emulate, the same steps will be FOLLOWED and be successful to get Emulation going. That is to say, turn key on only (no start), SES light lit, with TunerPro open and binary file loaded, hit the connector with pigtail ICON to initialize. Then upload binary file to APU1 with NO chip in it. Then SES light should go out. Then hit the starter and get the engine going. ARE ANY OF THESE STEPS OUT OF ORDER??? ARE ANY MISSING? To the experts, Please advise. Thanks.
May need to purchase Ostrich 2.0 to be in sync? What are the steps with Ostrich 2.0 that need to be made to Emulate? Will keep trying with APU1. Still no JOY! Anybody answer up with suggestions.
I rename the .bin file when I've changed the code mask to AA, to something like this ... Modified BJYL $OD_AA, so later on I can see what the original BCC was, what the original definition was and parameters have been modified. Try uploading a .bin with the code mask already changed to AA. Try starting the engine with TunerPro RT and the APU1 with the same .bin files with the code mask changed to AA in both files.
Usually the SES light will go out when the engine is running. Usually the SES light will be "ON" when the ignition switch is in the "Run" position with the engine "not running".
Maybe skip Emulation for the time being, and upload new files each time you make a change to the .bin file.
dave w
Same steps between Ostrich 2.0 and Autoprom, click wise. The only differences are, single USB cable for the Autoprom to the laptop instead of 2 for the Ostrich and ALDL datalogging cable and the settings under preferences, where you select interface type to be AutoProm/MAFTPro.
Setting the Mask ID to AA is a necessary step for emulation.
Make sure the hardware is connected and detected by Tuner Pro, I will sometimes do this a couple of times just to be sure.
For the AutoProm you need to make sure that the switches are in the correct positions for emulation. I don't recall the positions off hand, I need to look them up pretty much everytime I use mine. lol
Upload the bin with the ignition off (before turning ignition on), I find works best. This ensures that the bin that is loaded to the emulator is the one that is loaded to RAM in the ECM when the key is turned on, otherwise you can load some very wrong settings, and have to start over again, sometimes letting the ECM sit off for 10 to 20 seconds to fully clear the RAM.
The USB cable does not need to be connected to a laptop for the BIN in the emulator to remain.
After uploading the bin you can click on the emulation button (looks like an IC), either before or after turning the ignition on. All this does is enable changes to be automatically uploaded to the emulator when the changes are made.
If you find that the CEL is flashing when you turn the key on, the bin was not uploaded properly, or is a corrupt or incorrect bin. If the CEL starts to flash while emulating the check sum has not been disabled correctly.
The man who says something is impossible, is usually interrupted by the man doing it.
Thanks to both Dave W. and Six_Shooter. Really appreciate the comments that are VERY MUCH needed for proper emulation. Apparently the "Emulator" is the APU1 or Ostrich. It seems that the .bin contents are uploaded into the APU1/Ostrich. The "emulator" likely has volitile RAM. Then it has to have power to support the RAM holding the .bin contents. Where does the power come from? With the Ostrich it seems that it would come from the USB port on the Laptop. Perhaps the APU1 gets it also from the USB cable. Again, thanks ever so much for the comments.
ostrich has battery backup and can be unplugged from laptop and left in the car for years running the ecu code
Thanks much for the comment. That is interesting to know. I have an APU1 and took pictures of the internals and sent them to Moates.net with concerns. Likely the RAM in the Ostrich is FET based as it likely does not require much current to sustain RAM. Do you have pictures of the internals to identify the battery. Will have to open up the APU1 again and get close up pictures of the integrated circuits to get IDs off them and research them.
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