When you run cylinder 1 up to TDC, you need to make sure you are on the compression stroke. To do this, you can stick your finger into the cylinder 1 plug hole and feel for pressure as you rotate towards the zero mark.
Now when putting the plus on the distributor cap, you want to start with the number 1 plug wire on the post where the rotor is pointing to. Then 2,3,4,5,6 in that order going clock wise.
i will attempt to do so, might have to pull most of the egr stuff off to get down there.
The balancer ring could have slipped. You are basing all your diag on this. Verify the balancer mark is true. Common on Small blocks and some 60 deg.
ill bump this, it still wont run! pulled the alt out of the way to get more access to cyl 1 figured out tsc on #1 set the timing all over again, got a chug or two while rotating the distributor, stopeed set it there and nothing. kept messing with it and stll nothing, i have spark i have fuel, i checked all the specs on ICM, wires, coil, cap rotor etc etc etc. and have nothing, fuel pressure is still fine.
what else is there? if vats were an issue the security light would pop up correct?
i have the esc still unplugged. the alt is unplugged does it need to be plugged in? is there a secondary fuse that controls the brain? the only other code i got from it was a map code but i was under the assumption it would still indeed run
Have you used a timing light yet?
"got a chug or two while rotating the distributor" does not mean "it's timed to 10*BTC"
Did you unplug the ESC module or the ESC timing wire? It's a single tan-with-black-stripe wire with a 1 pin weatherpack connector on it, IIRC.
no sense in using a light as it wont even run yet. its btdc!? not tdc? how is one suppose to set something at tdc, that goes against everything ive ever known.
esc wire is unplugged. so what set it at 0 at tdc then retard it to 10* on the balancer and drop the distributor in at 0 pointing at cyl 1?
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