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Thread: Add new items to datalogdash?

  1. #1
    Fuel Injected! JeepsAndGuns's Avatar
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    Add new items to datalogdash?

    So on the actual datalog dash, you have all the items that can be displayed. You can right click on a item and go to values and then change it to what you want from a list of diffrent options. I have done this to a few of the boxes at the bottom of the dash and changed them to what I want displayed. But I was wondering, is there a way you can add new items to the list of selectable items?
    I have noticed under the bitmasks, under a section labeled "mode word 2" there is a item called "idle spark enabled" and it says either true or false.
    First question, is this basicly something in the datastream thats showing when its switching from the idle spark table over to the main spark table? I have always been kinda curious when the switch actually takes place. I know what the bin is set at, but that doesnt help me. I need to see/feel when actually driving it to know when it happens. I thought it would be nice to have something on the dash showing me when it does switch, so I can actually watch and feel (in the driveway or large parking lot ofcourse) the switch taking place, that way I can better tune the parameters for when it does switch. On automatics its probably not as important, but me having a manual, having the two tables is showing to be very nice and helpfull when tuning.

    So, naturally, the second question. If this is the value I am looking for, is there any way that could be added to the dash? If it could, I would love if it could be something basicly like the one showing when your in open or closed loop.
    Mabey have the box title "spark table" and have IDLE with a green background (just like it has when it shows closed loop) when its in the idle table, then when it switches to the main table, have it switch to MAIN with a white background. Is that even possiable?


    Last, I am wondering if a specific value can be changed. Specificly, coolant temp. It has the large virtural "gauge" showing engine temp in *F, but its hard to read. There is also engine temp on one of the little boxes thats easy to read, but it displays in *C. Can this be changed to display *F instead?
    79 Jeep Cherokee, AMC 401, T-18 manual trans, hydroboost, 16197427 MPFI system---the toy

    93 Jeep YJ Wrangler, 4.0L, 5 speed, 8.8 rear, homebrew hub conversion and big brakes, hydroboost, 2.5in OME lift, 31x10.50's---the daily driver

    99 Jeep WJ Grand Cherokee limited, 4.0L, auto, 2wd, leather and power everything, 99% stock---the long distance highway ride.

  2. #2
    RIP EagleMark's Avatar
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    Yes. Any gauge can read any value by right click and choose value. If you have a value for coolant temp in F and C well you just choose the one you want. If it does not have coolanr c and coolanr f you can add another value for coolant F, would be same as coolant C but need a differant/unique ID and conversion would need to be done in F, not C. If you can't figure out how to do this attach your adx and I will add one for you.

    For the Idle Spark table I think that is a Bitmask. If you click on all your dash board items you will see some say Values and some say Bitmask only Bitmasks can be put in Bitmask and same for values.

    If you want to change one go to Acquisition, Edit Acquisition file, then click on dashboard you want to change. You will see a list of items in dashboard, click on one and down below is a list of Analog (Value) Digital (Value) or Status Flag (bitmask)

    If you don't like the way coolant temp reads, say it goes to 350 degrees? And you only want the gauge to go to 250 degrees? Go to Acquisition, Edit Definition, values and click on coolant temp F and change range low and high to what you want and it will show only between those ranges in dashboard. Just looked at one and low was -40.0000 and high was 344.250000 so change them to 0.00000 and 250.00000 and that's what the analog dashboard will show for a range. Of course digital would not need change as it only displays the reading, not a full sweep gauge from min to max. This makes the gauge easier to read because the full sweep is much less. Putting in a high alarm will put a red mark on gauge from that point up!

    1990 Chevy Suburban 5.7L Auto ECM 1227747 $42!
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  3. #3
    Super Moderator Six_Shooter's Avatar
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    Tuner Pro V5 has a fully customizable dash. AFAIK, as long as it is a defined value and actually in the datastream, it can be added to the dash.

    Just a tuning note, you should never feel the switch from one table to another, that would indicate that one, or both tables is not tuned well, or for smooth transition.
    The man who says something is impossible, is usually interrupted by the man doing it.

  4. #4
    RIP EagleMark's Avatar
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    He's been wondering when the tables switch from Idle VE to Main VE and found Idle Flag and Idle Spark Enabled in Item list view. If you open item list view while playing back a data log you could watch when they change. Or add them to dash board to watch the change. And yes that would indicate it is changing from Idle spark to main spark. Not feeling it is good!

    1990 Chevy Suburban 5.7L Auto ECM 1227747 $42!
    1998 Chevy Silverado 5.7L Vortec 0411 Swap to RoadRunner!
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  5. #5
    Fuel Injected! JeepsAndGuns's Avatar
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    "feel" is a bad choice of words on my part. I have never actually "felt" the change. I was just trying to discribe that the way my brain works, I need to be actually driveing (in a safe location that is) when the change happens so I can see what/when/and where it changes.

    AHH, I figured out the coolant temp thing. After reading what you said, I looked at the dash and noticed the "gauge" says engine temp, but the box at the bottom said coolant temp. Right clicked on the box and changed it to "engine temp" Now it should be right! (just now did this, so havent tested) The gauge goes from -40 to 250, It never gets down to -40 here. So I will up it to simply 0. It never even gets that cold, usally the 20's is the lowest it ever gets here....lol


    Ok, going by your instructions, I think I have got everything set up the way I want. I changed one of the boxes at the bottom to the idle spark bitmask I was talking about. I then used your instructions for changing the range of the gauges. I changed my coolant temp range, I changed my spedo from 200mph max to 100, changed the high alarm to 80 (this is a jeep remember) changed my tach high alarm to 4500. I never knew you could do all this!
    I also figured out how to change the background color of the bitmasks already on the dash. Now when PE. AE, and closed loop become active, its a eayser to see darker color of green than it was before. I then changed the idle spark to where when its in idle, its green, and main, its red. I then after a little pokeing around, found out where you can change what it says. So now my idle spark box simply say "spark table" and says "idle" or "main" instead of true and false.

    If this all works I will be quite glad I posted this thread, as I never knew you could do all this, and was too afraid of messing something up to just start clicking random stuff to see what it does. So just to be safe, I saved this as new, so if I did mess something up, I can go back.
    Only problem, just like every time, its gonna bew next weekend before I can get the time to test it out
    79 Jeep Cherokee, AMC 401, T-18 manual trans, hydroboost, 16197427 MPFI system---the toy

    93 Jeep YJ Wrangler, 4.0L, 5 speed, 8.8 rear, homebrew hub conversion and big brakes, hydroboost, 2.5in OME lift, 31x10.50's---the daily driver

    99 Jeep WJ Grand Cherokee limited, 4.0L, auto, 2wd, leather and power everything, 99% stock---the long distance highway ride.

  6. #6
    Vintage Methane Ejector
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    It'll work!

    Feel free to push all the buttons, try things out, just remember to always save a new copy before changing anything and save often. A lesson I learned the hard way while working with the beta versions of TP5.

  7. #7
    RIP EagleMark's Avatar
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    You don't have to wait till next weekend! Just play back one of your data logs you recorded! It'll show the differences you made.

    Like PE should be off and when on say BIG POWER!

    Always saving a backup on everything is good practice. But when I tune a car I have a folder for it. In it is original bin and a fresh copy of my adx and xdf. Every car has it's own. When I make a change to the bin in say PE Delay Time, I also make a change in XDF. Right click on PE Delay Time and click edit parameter xdf info, a box will open and top line is the title PE Delay Time and I add a + then OK now it reads
    "PE Delay Time +"
    so I know everything I have changed and save bin as new name like add V1, V1.1, V1.2 I can always go back and compare to original things I have changed.

    All the PE changes are because of the thread you started. I haven't even got this system in the truck yet but lots of work done on bin for the conversion.

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    1990 Chevy Suburban 5.7L Auto ECM 1227747 $42!
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  8. #8
    Vintage Methane Ejector
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    Off topic, but don't get too carried away with the PE tuning until I get finished going through the PE code. Several things need to be renamed in the xdf. The "Base PE AFR" actually leans-out the AFR if in PE for an extended amount of time. I'll have more later.
    Last edited by 93V8S10; 01-16-2012 at 06:21 AM.

  9. #9
    RIP EagleMark's Avatar
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    I actually changed that back once I found the PE AFR table...

    Going off topic is normal around here... but we all learn... and OP can always remind us if we forgot his issue, but we usually have that done and keep going!

    Glad to see guys still improving!

    1990 Chevy Suburban 5.7L Auto ECM 1227747 $42!
    1998 Chevy Silverado 5.7L Vortec 0411 Swap to RoadRunner!
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  10. #10
    Fuel Injected! JeepsAndGuns's Avatar
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    Yea I am in the habbit of always saving a bin as new any time I make a change. I then add something to it so I know basicly what I did. Has helped me several times. I have made changes and didnt have good results. So instead of going back and undoing the changes, I just simply deleted that bin and went back to the one before it.

    I dont have any reccorded datalogs, so I wont see the fruits of my labor untill I try it.
    I wish I wasnt so broke, I really would love to have a WBO2.
    79 Jeep Cherokee, AMC 401, T-18 manual trans, hydroboost, 16197427 MPFI system---the toy

    93 Jeep YJ Wrangler, 4.0L, 5 speed, 8.8 rear, homebrew hub conversion and big brakes, hydroboost, 2.5in OME lift, 31x10.50's---the daily driver

    99 Jeep WJ Grand Cherokee limited, 4.0L, auto, 2wd, leather and power everything, 99% stock---the long distance highway ride.

  11. #11
    Fuel Injected! JeepsAndGuns's Avatar
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    I had some time this morning to try out my new dash. It works great! Being able to see when it changes from idle to main is great.
    I found me a short dead end road about 1/4 mile away from the house and spent some time just starting and stopping, pulling out and putting around to see when it actaully changes. Having my foot on the gas and being able to feel where its at, and seeing how fast I am going made a diffrence. I have now done some more tweaking of my timing tables and when it changes from idle to main and have made a good improvement.
    Looking at the numbers programmed ino the bin is nothing like actually feeling and knowing where your foot and vehicle is when it changes. If anyone else has a manual and the 7427, I suggest adding this to your dash. it may prove to be quite handy.
    79 Jeep Cherokee, AMC 401, T-18 manual trans, hydroboost, 16197427 MPFI system---the toy

    93 Jeep YJ Wrangler, 4.0L, 5 speed, 8.8 rear, homebrew hub conversion and big brakes, hydroboost, 2.5in OME lift, 31x10.50's---the daily driver

    99 Jeep WJ Grand Cherokee limited, 4.0L, auto, 2wd, leather and power everything, 99% stock---the long distance highway ride.

  12. #12
    RIP EagleMark's Avatar
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    Cool! But even when done you need to blend those 2 tables. Should not feel the change when driving.

    1990 Chevy Suburban 5.7L Auto ECM 1227747 $42!
    1998 Chevy Silverado 5.7L Vortec 0411 Swap to RoadRunner!
    -= =-

  13. #13
    Fuel Injected! JeepsAndGuns's Avatar
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    The change is not felt, never has been.
    79 Jeep Cherokee, AMC 401, T-18 manual trans, hydroboost, 16197427 MPFI system---the toy

    93 Jeep YJ Wrangler, 4.0L, 5 speed, 8.8 rear, homebrew hub conversion and big brakes, hydroboost, 2.5in OME lift, 31x10.50's---the daily driver

    99 Jeep WJ Grand Cherokee limited, 4.0L, auto, 2wd, leather and power everything, 99% stock---the long distance highway ride.

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