Introduction

[Fast355]

For a modest low cost, for modest performance gains, for ultra easy tuning, and for next to nothing headaches using TBI heads on a stock L31 roller camshaft short block assembly is an option worth considering. Other options available will: add cost, add headaches, increase performance, and add time for tuning.

dave w

All due respect Dave, those cams don't even work as well as the stock 201/208 LT1 cams in the 350s. I ran a LT1 cam on a STOCK 299' AWLD calibration for months with nothing more than 14 psi of fuel pressure, 6° BTDC on the timing, and a slight tweak of the minimum air rate screw on the throttle body. It was smooth, made good torque, had a great idle, and gave great fuel economy. Idle was a bit rich with the BLMs in the 110 range but otherwise worked very well. Minimal tuning would have fixed the VE tables and the advance curve could have been quicker with more initial timing to give even more low-end power.

[Fast355]

I put slightly milled Vortec heads with 2.05/1.60 valves in them on the 350 TBI and brought it up to 9:1 with a .016" thick compressed head gasket. Running the Performer RPM intake I lost some TQ and throttle response under 3,500 rpm in trade for about 40 HP more. Stock heads would have been hard pressed to gain 20 HP IMO.

[dave w]

All due respect Dave, those cams don't even work as well as the stock 201/208 LT1 cams in the 350s. I ran a LT1 cam on a STOCK 299' AWLD calibration for months with nothing more than 14 psi of fuel pressure, 6° BTDC on the timing, and a slight tweak of the minimum air rate screw on the throttle body. It was smooth, made good torque, had a great idle, and gave great fuel economy. Idle was a bit rich with the BLMs in the 110 range but otherwise worked very well. Minimal tuning would have fixed the VE tables and the advance curve could have been quicker with more initial timing to give even more low-end power.

I wanted to highlight a low cost option. The principles of engine building are fairly consistent; add money, time, and experience to achieve desired results. Your posts provide outstanding insight on “how to” achieve desired results, saving others valuable time and money!

dave w

[Fast355]

I wanted to highlight a low cost option. The principles of engine building are fairly consistent; add money, time, and experience to achieve desired results. Your posts provide outstanding insight on “how to” achieve desired results, saving others valuable time and money!

dave w

Power, Reliability, Cost is at each end of a triangle. For a good street engine you want a good balance of all 3, especially in a daily driver. Vortec cam has Cost and Reliability going for it. Will certainly make a little more power than stock but won't win any speed races.

[Danoby]

I was just out tinkering with the car. I saw the coolant was a little low, looked around, and found the radiator is leaking a little bit. I guess I will start acquiring all the parts I am going to need to do this cam swap, including the radiator now too. Will 1.6 rockers work with the 395 cam without drilling out the push rod holes? And do I need self-aligning rockers with the TBI swirl port heads?

[1project2many]

Swapping to the LT1 cam and self-aligning 1.6 rockers will make a noticeable difference. Improved intake flow will complement the cam and rockers.

You must check the pushrod holes for clearance. Some heads need metal removed, some do not. You can do it on the vehicle if you are extremely careful although the safest way is with the heads removed.

[Danoby]

I scored a 395 cam on ebay for a hundred bucks. It's a brand new marine engine take out. The engine needed to be converted to reverse rotation prior to install. My plan is to put this cam in along with new valve seals. I am wondering how it will run without any tuning. I really need to get on board with the tuning process. I have heard too many bad things about online chips with remote tuning. Plus I think I could really enjoy playing with it. How do I get started?? If you guys could walk me through this I would be elated. I think the benefits will be half as great installing a cam without a tune. In fact, the benefits of all the upgrades I have already done are probably only half realized at best.

[Fast355]

I scored a 395 cam on ebay for a hundred bucks. It's a brand new marine engine take out. The engine needed to be converted to reverse rotation prior to install. My plan is to put this cam in along with new valve seals. I am wondering how it will run without any tuning. I really need to get on board with the tuning process. I have heard too many bad things about online chips with remote tuning. Plus I think I could really enjoy playing with it. How do I get started?? If you guys could walk me through this I would be elated. I think the benefits will be half as great installing a cam without a tune. In fact, the benefits of all the upgrades I have already done are probably only half realized at best.

First step is find the ECM and take a picture of the label and post back here. Probably has a part number ending in 8746'. If it is an 8746', the best place to start is a 9C1 chip and 65/68 lb/hr police car injectors. Have to get your engine enough fuel to be able to start the tuning process. The Marine cam is similar in overall duration and lift to the L98 cam. In a 96-2002 vortec engine the 395' cam will fire up and run without much work, but it also uses a mass airflow sensor and a more advanced PCM.

[Danoby]

I got to the ECM today. It is indeed the '8746.' I see the following on the ECM: "SERV. NO. 1228746" under that "86ATCR K193480464" and under that "16143661." I can post up a pic of the label if that is necessary.

Where might I find a 9C1 chip and what kind of changes would that make in itself? I looked around on ebay and found a ton of "JET" chips, "Stage 1" and all this as well as numerous used ECMs.

I did have some avail finding the injectors though. Would these do the trick?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/SET-of-TWO-H...1TArGl&vxp=mtr