Need help with my tuner pro

**Fast355** · 10-12-2015

On the otherhand I almost never use a wideband. Tuned for years without them and find they are often not accurate. Innovative LC1 units are JUNK.

**Six_Shooter** · 10-12-2015

I tuned for a long while without a WBO2 as well, but I have always found that I can dial in a tune much tighter with a WBO2 installed than without one. If a WBO is inaccurate, it's installation related, or the sensor itself is worn out, since any WBO2 on the market today is quite accurate, when installed properly, and properly maintained. With the WBO2 you can see if a little change is made is reflected by what is coming out of the tail pipe, either for the positive or negative in real time. No need to shut the car off and wait for it to cool to read plugs. ;) No NBO2 sensor will show .1 or better resolution in AFR changes from one run to the next, or if that small change at idle actually made an effect or not. ;)

While I don't care for LC-1s, I NEVER had a problem with them, I had 2, one was installed in my car, the other I used for tuning other people's cars. They were reliable, and always worked well. The only time the data was incorrect, or maybe a bit misleading was when the sensor itself was old and failing, other than that they just worked. I don't care for them because they use serial communications, and that requires not one, but TWO adapters to get the data from the LC-1 to the laptop, the mini headphone jack to serial adaptor from Innovate and a serial to USB adapter which in my experience is usually quite flaky.

**Fast355** · 10-12-2015

Originally Posted by Six_Shooter

I tuned for a long while without a WBO2 as well, but I have always found that I can dial in a tune much tighter with a WBO2 installed than without one. If a WBO is inaccurate, it's installation related, or the sensor itself is worn out, since any WBO2 on the market today is quite accurate, when installed properly, and properly maintained. With the WBO2 you can see if a little change is made is reflected by what is coming out of the tail pipe, either for the positive or negative in real time. No need to shut the car off and wait for it to cool to read plugs. ;) No NBO2 sensor will show .1 or better resolution in AFR changes from one run to the next, or if that small change at idle actually made an effect or not. ;)

While I don't care for LC-1s, I NEVER had a problem with them, I had 2, one was installed in my car, the other I used for tuning other people's cars. They were reliable, and always worked well. The only time the data was incorrect, or maybe a bit misleading was when the sensor itself was old and failing, other than that they just worked. I don't care for them because they use serial communications, and that requires not one, but TWO adapters to get the data from the LC-1 to the laptop, the mini headphone jack to serial adaptor from Innovate and a serial to USB adapter which in my experience is usually quite flaky.

I prefer BLM to wideband and only use wideband data in PE.

Most Widebands require "Free Air" calibrations and become innacurate if this is not performed.

I have an AEM on the Express but found I was pretty darn spot on without it anyway.