new $EE tuning thing!

[steveo]

aren't there any optispark related parameters on the eside?

[jthompson122183]

anyone know what the o2 related tables starting at 21cd t-side does?

[lionelhutz]

Steve, I can help you with the transmission stuff, but I'm still waiting for better weather to get my car out of storage.

I really haven't figured it all out but I came-up with a setup I like better.

The shift tables are mostly an exponential looking curve. I turned them into more of an S curve and I really like how that drives. I don't have it here, but I could grab my calibration so you could see these tables.

The pressure table uses %TPS so when you increase part throttle torque you should increase the part throttle pressure to match. The thing is that the pressure control is rather convoluted. Best I can tell this is what happens. You first have the %TPS vs speed tables which gives a "line pressure" value. Then, you have other tables with adder values that adjust the "line pressure" value. Finally, the "line pressure" is used to lookup the force motor current in the "line pressure" vs temperature table. I put line pressure in quotes because it's not really the line pressure. It's just an intermediate percentage value that could be between 0 and 96. I have to assume that the force motor tables were calibrated to the transmission build being used for the platform. This is why I'm hoping you can add the ability to manually control the "line pressure" or alternatively the force motor current. Then I can basically garage test the line pressure control to see if I'm getting what I expect.

There is a "maximum pressure" scalar. This just caps the "maximum pressure" determined from all the tables. You don't want to ever set this above 96. You also have to be careful because I have seen calibration with the "maximum pressure" set to 90 and the force motor tables all have a sudden drop to 0 in the 96 column meaning the calibration won't work right using 96 as the "maximum pressure" unless the force motor tables are fixed.

As for the actual pressure you get. Well, you have to do any of this pressure tuning with a gauge on the transmission. From what I have read, somewhere in the 200psi to 220psi is the maximum you should use on a stock pump. You should be able to raise the pressure since the used force motor current never goes to 0 in a stock calibration and the lower the current the higher the line pressure. As I posted above, I have seen tables with 0's but the column wasn't used.

Stall wall - are you talking hitting the rev limiter or the limp-mode where you lose 1st gear until you re-start the engine?

You cure the first one with shift point tuning. There are 2 kickdown tables. One with speed and the other with rpm. Both have to be met before a shift occurs. If you just try adjusting one and don't see a difference it's because the shift is waiting for the other one. When I started, I was first banging the rev limiter because of the mph table. I knew because my first attempt at lowering the rpm didn't change anything. Some people set the mph table at 0 or very low and just rely on the rpm. I have never read about any bad side effects from doing this, so it seems to be a valid way to do it.

Everything I have read says you cure the second one simply by raising the VSS diagnostic scalar. I've read to go 400rpm over the stall or just use around 5000 or 6000rpm. I don't have a high enough stall to have this problem or to know if this is the cure.

[steveo]

i think stall wall is when you put a big converter in your car and it refuses to shift at WOT. not entirely sure, my only automatic 4l60e car was stock and untuned.

[steveo]

if i said make me a set of shift tables that'd be not great but just passable for a midsize cam with a medium and large stall, could you rough them out? how about just more aggressive for a stock-ish car, a bit more line pressure and higher shift points?

[steveo]

now on beta 12.

im thinking this one is ready for public use

i've tested it on windows xp and it seems really good.

it uses way less ram than previous versions.

i added a 'programming stability test' to the flash routine section that repeatedly uploads routines and retrieves data for 15 iterations to ensure programming is stable (so you can see if flashing is a good idea or not).

the only thing that's missing is additional data from the e-side, but im not sure i even care about the e-side data right now? it's just a treat that it works at all.

and the only fault i can find is that cpu usage during playback with the graphing window open is fairly high due to constant graph refreshing. it works well, though.

[steveo]

manged to cut cpu usage in half for cursor refresh. might be good enough. it's 5% on my quad core, just concerned it'll be heavy on a netbook or whatever.

[fbody_Brian]

i think stall wall is when you put a big converter in your car and it refuses to shift at WOT. not entirely sure, my only automatic 4l60e car was stock and untuned.

Stall wall is actually the computer seeing the stall at launch as the transmission slipping because of the setting of the vss diagnostic rpm, the trans then goes into "limp mode" and you get second gear starts until the car is restarted. From what I've read doing research, changing the vss enable min diagnostic rpm to something above your stall speed is supposed to cure this. I did read something from a highly respected high dollar lt1 tuner where he straight up stated that there's more to it and there's something else you have to change that isn't available in tuning software and he had a special hack to fix it. I got the feeling that he was saying this because he charged a lot of money to do tunes...

[steveo]

Stall wall is actually the computer seeing the stall at launch as the transmission slipping because of the setting of the vss diagnostic rpm

ahh i never even noticed what the diagnostic rpm was really for. that's a good tip.

[fbody_Brian]

Also I don't really know a lot about tuning the trans, but I do know that the stock firebird/camaro trans tuning is very soft. I read that the best stock lt1 auto tables were from the caddy with the towing package. I copied them over and was very happy, so that's somewhere to look that can point you in the right direction and it's a factory calibration.

[steveo]

can you send me your current bin so i can play around with it?

have you done much with shift points? im trying to throw together a set of tables for my automatic tuning tool.

[fbody_Brian]

ahh i never even noticed what the diagnostic rpm was really for. that's a good tip.

I'm just going on what I've read on forums though, and that info is pretty varied and sometimes straight up wrong, so....
it would be nice to actually know that particular setting actually triggers some kind of limp mode and not just be guessing at it. I have no high stall so I've never had the issue.

[fbody_Brian]

can you send me your current bin so i can play around with it?

have you done much with shift points? im trying to throw together a set of tables for my automatic tuning tool.

I'll send it when I get home, but I have my tables a little jacked right now trying to bandaid a 3-4 slipping issue I have. also I'm running 3.42 gears and shifting at 6100rpm so my shift points and scalars and everything are set for that.

[fbody_Brian]

So what do you imagine this OS Code hack is for high stall OBDI?

http://ls1tech.com/forums/lt1-lt4-mo...l#post17162485

http://ls1tech.com/forums/lt1-lt4-mo...l#post17032019

[Thatdudeorion]

Would you mind sharing what your slipping bandaids are? Mine is slipping mostly on the 1-2 shift and in 2, it'll hold a decent amount of torque in 3 and 4, so right now I'm having it basically short shift to get into 3rd as quickly as possible and fully lock the TCC sooner, obviously it lugs a bit, but that's better than it going to full slip in second before I can get hit the stock 2-3 upshift speed, hilly stop and go traffic is a bit dicey right now. I haven't messed with any pressure tables as based on my rudimentary experimentation using the perform switch and putting the gear selector in 2 or 3, I think those selections add line pressure by default and I think the added line pressure is making the slippage worse.

Obviously the trans needs a rebuild, but I recently dropped the pan and there weren't any hard parts or anything, so I'm just trying to keep it going as long as possible on fresh fluid, filter, and tuning, until I decide whether I can/want to afford a rebuild. T

he car has body damage and what seems like is an RMS leak that recently got worse, so I know it's probably headed to the junk man if the trans really lets go, but it gets as high as 27 mpg on the highway, which is saving me considerable over my other cars at the moment, so I really hope I can baby it and keep it going a while longer, that's what's got me back into tuning, after having left it alone for a few years.

I'll send it when I get home, but I have my tables a little jacked right now trying to bandaid a 3-4 slipping issue I have. also I'm running 3.42 gears and shifting at 6100rpm so my shift points and scalars and everything are set for that.