new $EE tuning thing!

[steveo]

all that matters is PIN 9 at the ALDL connector (bottom left corner). your aldl cable only uses that one pin (and a ground).

ensure it is connected to D30 @ your ECM (blue 30), this is usually a tan wire. trace that tan wire and make sure nothing else is spliced into it.

i usually run a fresh wire for it to ensure data integrity.

disconnect D7 at the ECM (purple wire), it's not needed, but that way you can still use OBD-II diagnostic tools to read codes from your ABS module and whatever else at your ALDL.

[Casey96SS]

all that matters is PIN 9 at the ALDL connector (bottom left corner). your aldl cable only uses that one pin (and a ground).

ensure it is connected to D30 @ your ECM (blue 30), this is usually a tan wire. trace that tan wire and make sure nothing else is spliced into it.

i usually run a fresh wire for it to ensure data integrity.

disconnect D7 at the ECM (purple wire), it's not needed, but that way you can still use OBD-II diagnostic tools to read codes from your ABS module and whatever else at your ALDL.

Cool! I will run a new wire directly from ALDL Pin 9 to ECM D30. I did not think of that. I know the EBCM is wired into the tan wire on my car based on the wiring diagram in the FSM. I believe that is what is causing my logging issues.

Do you happen to know if the pins on the ALDL and ECM side are something you can easily buy? I have been trying to avoid cutting into my factory wiring. It would be nice to just throw new pins on the new wire and plug them into their correct places.

Also, would leaving the purple D7 pin hooked up to the ECM cause any problems? That's the way it came from the factory on my car. Thanks for the help!

[steveo]

just unhook it at the ecm. its unused but god knows what its pinned out to on the obd-1 ecm board

[Casey96SS]

all that matters is PIN 9 at the ALDL connector (bottom left corner). your aldl cable only uses that one pin (and a ground).

ensure it is connected to D30 @ your ECM (blue 30), this is usually a tan wire. trace that tan wire and make sure nothing else is spliced into it.

i usually run a fresh wire for it to ensure data integrity.

disconnect D7 at the ECM (purple wire), it's not needed, but that way you can still use OBD-II diagnostic tools to read codes from your ABS module and whatever else at your ALDL.

So I ran a new 20-ga TXL wire from my ALDL pin 9 directly to my ECM pin D30. I crimped and soldered a new pin and terminal to the ends of the wire. EFI Connection is a great place for these things! I also disconnected D7 from the ECM. I believe I should have a good ALDL connection to the ECM.

Unfortunately I am still getting random dead spots in my logs and am not able to flash. EEhack makes it to about step 4 or 5 of the programming stability test and then fails. The really weird thing is that I was able to flash when I had the factory tan ALDL wire in place. Maybe that was a fluke? I am able to read the bin with Winflash but did not try writing anything out of fear of bricking the ECM.

Could this be related to the cable? I am using this one from Red Devil River. http://www.reddevilriver.com/aldl.html I took the adapter end apart and there is a resistor in the wiring in there. Would this have something to do with why I can flash when the factory tan ALDL wire is in place?

Is there a better cable I should be using? I have tried two different laptops with no difference.

Thanks for any help! I am stumped!

[steveo]

if you can garuntee that the power and ground are solid then it must be the cable

[Casey96SS]

What would be the best way to troubleshoot the #4 and 5 grounds on the ALDL connector? Does the cable rely on both of those or just one of them? Would it be worth trying to run a temp ground wire from 4 or 5 or both to the ground stud under the hood? Sorry for my ignorance in all of this. Definitely learning a lot!

[steveo]

What would be the best way to troubleshoot the #4 and 5 grounds on the ALDL connector? Does the cable rely on both of those or just one of them? Would it be worth trying to run a temp ground wire from 4 or 5 or both to the ground stud under the hood? Sorry for my ignorance in all of this. Definitely learning a lot!

worth a shot

the cable only uses one of them but i forget which

[Casey96SS]

worth a shot

the cable only uses one of them but i forget which

Well running the new ground wires directly from ALDL pins 4 and 5 to the ground post on the inner fender changed nothing. I did find that the ground stud was loose where it bolts to the fender but even tightening that did not help.

I did some more research on the RDR cable I am using. Looks like I got one with a fake FT232RL chip. The letters on the chip appear to be printed on instead of laser etched. http://hackaday.com/2014/02/19/ft232rl-real-or-fake/

I went ahead and ordered a Moates cable. Hopefully that solves my problem.

I almost feels like it was easier removing and rebuilding the engine by myself than it has been to log and tune this damn car!

[Casey96SS]

Well running the new ground wires directly from ALDL pins 4 and 5 to the ground post on the inner fender changed nothing. I did find that the ground stud was loose where it bolts to the fender but even tightening that did not help.

I did some more research on the RDR cable I am using. Looks like I got one with a fake FT232RL chip. The letters on the chip appear to be printed on instead of laser etched. http://hackaday.com/2014/02/19/ft232rl-real-or-fake/

I went ahead and ordered a Moates cable. Hopefully that solves my problem.

I almost feels like it was easier removing and rebuilding the engine by myself than it has been to log and tune this damn car!

Major victory today! It looks like all of the issues I was having were due to the Red Devil River cable and the fake FT232RL chip. The Moates cable I ordered works perfectly. No dead spots while logging and no errors with the programming stability test. I did not try flashing anything yet, but I am assuming it should work without a problem. Best of all my AEM wideband now works with EEHack!

I sure spent a lot of time messing around with this just to find out an $80 cable was the problem. I guess at least I now have a nice clean wire for my ALDL data in my car and I also wired the wideband data directly to the ECM D27 pin while it was apart. Looking forward to working on the tune for this thing! (maybe)