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Thread: new $EE tuning thing!

  1. #916
    Fuel Injected! steveo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Casey96SS View Post
    Hey Steve finally had a chance to get my car back together and do a little data logging yesterday with the wideband disconnected. The ABS Inop and Low Trac lights seems to be turning on occasionally while logging. If I look at the graphs in EEHack while this is happening there is a flat spot on any of the data and I cannot double click in the flat area. The lights do not come on if I do not have the laptop hooked up. Hope this makes sense. Any idea what is going on? Thanks!
    for your obd-i conversion, make sure only your ecm is connected to the aldl data wire.. sounds like your ABS module is hooked up there; it would be incompatible with the older data

  2. #917
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    Quote Originally Posted by steveo View Post
    for your obd-i conversion, make sure only your ecm is connected to the aldl data wire.. sounds like your ABS module is hooked up there; it would be incompatible with the older data
    It looks like my Red Devil River Cable is reading on Pin 9 which would be Serial Data (UART). (See Pic)

    Car is a 1996 with the OBD-II ALDL connector. I converted over to an OBD-I with the correct knock module.

    Should be reading off Pin 2 Serial Data (Class II)?

    Does that sound right before I get the soldering iron out? Also do you see any issues with the resistor they have installed on there? Thanks!
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    1996 Camaro SS #308, M6, 3.42 (4.10 on the way), OBD-I Conv, OBX 1-7/8" Stainless Headers, Custom 3" Stainless Y Pipe, 2OTL
    355-Stock Crank, 6" Forged Rods, Forged Pistons-11.5:1 SCR
    LE2 Heads, LE2 Ported Intake, LE/Lunati 231/239 110 LSA Cam, Comp Pro Mag 1.6 RRA, Bosch III 30-lb Inj, Stock TB, Tune In Progress

  3. #918
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    Quote Originally Posted by Casey96SS View Post
    It looks like my Red Devil River Cable is reading on Pin 9 which would be Serial Data (UART). (See Pic)

    Car is a 1996 with the OBD-II ALDL connector. I converted over to an OBD-I with the correct knock module.

    Should be reading off Pin 2 Serial Data (Class II)?

    Does that sound right before I get the soldering iron out? Also do you see any issues with the resistor they have installed on there? Thanks!
    I got it figured out after searching the net and looking at the wiring diagrams in my FSM.

    Swapped #2 and #9 wires on the ALDL connector

    Swapped #7 and #30 wires on the blue PCM connector

    This basically eliminated the EBCM wiring from the ALDL data wire.

    It logs just fine now. I wish that would have help my wideband issue, but no luck there.
    1996 Camaro SS #308, M6, 3.42 (4.10 on the way), OBD-I Conv, OBX 1-7/8" Stainless Headers, Custom 3" Stainless Y Pipe, 2OTL
    355-Stock Crank, 6" Forged Rods, Forged Pistons-11.5:1 SCR
    LE2 Heads, LE2 Ported Intake, LE/Lunati 231/239 110 LSA Cam, Comp Pro Mag 1.6 RRA, Bosch III 30-lb Inj, Stock TB, Tune In Progress

  4. #919

  5. #920
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    Quote Originally Posted by Casey96SS View Post
    I got it figured out after searching the net and looking at the wiring diagrams in my FSM.

    Swapped #2 and #9 wires on the ALDL connector

    Swapped #7 and #30 wires on the blue PCM connector

    This basically eliminated the EBCM wiring from the ALDL data wire.

    It logs just fine now. I wish that would have help my wideband issue, but no luck there.
    It starting to look like my 96 F body with an OBDI PCM is wanting to be a real bastard to log and tune. I previously switched my tan and purple wires from my ALDL to PCM so that it would take the EBCM off the ALDL wire and stop creating dead spots in my logs and tripping the ABS light. This did the trick when logging.

    I went to load a new bin file this weekend for some larger injectors and could not get the bin to load. I tried EEhack and Winflash and neither would work. I could read fine but not write. I switched my purple and tan wires back to the factory locations and both programs write just fine.

    With the ALDL wires back in their factory locations, I tried switching off the setting for "Silence Extra Modules". This seemed to prevent the ABS light from coming on while logging, but is still looking like I was getting dead spots in the data stream.

    Would there be any extra or different modules that need to be silenced on a 96 F body to stop them from interfering with the data stream? Would it be possible to just pull the fuse or relay for the EBCM while logging to avoid the interference? Just looking for ideas....

    I think my only other option would be to swap the ALDL wires back so I can log correctly and then build a bench harness if possible to load bin files. This is definitely getting frustrating! It would be great to be able to use this awesome software to it's full potential on my car.
    1996 Camaro SS #308, M6, 3.42 (4.10 on the way), OBD-I Conv, OBX 1-7/8" Stainless Headers, Custom 3" Stainless Y Pipe, 2OTL
    355-Stock Crank, 6" Forged Rods, Forged Pistons-11.5:1 SCR
    LE2 Heads, LE2 Ported Intake, LE/Lunati 231/239 110 LSA Cam, Comp Pro Mag 1.6 RRA, Bosch III 30-lb Inj, Stock TB, Tune In Progress

  6. #921
    Fuel Injected! steveo's Avatar
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    all that matters is PIN 9 at the ALDL connector (bottom left corner). your aldl cable only uses that one pin (and a ground).

    ensure it is connected to D30 @ your ECM (blue 30), this is usually a tan wire. trace that tan wire and make sure nothing else is spliced into it.

    i usually run a fresh wire for it to ensure data integrity.

    disconnect D7 at the ECM (purple wire), it's not needed, but that way you can still use OBD-II diagnostic tools to read codes from your ABS module and whatever else at your ALDL.

  7. #922
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    Quote Originally Posted by steveo View Post
    all that matters is PIN 9 at the ALDL connector (bottom left corner). your aldl cable only uses that one pin (and a ground).

    ensure it is connected to D30 @ your ECM (blue 30), this is usually a tan wire. trace that tan wire and make sure nothing else is spliced into it.

    i usually run a fresh wire for it to ensure data integrity.

    disconnect D7 at the ECM (purple wire), it's not needed, but that way you can still use OBD-II diagnostic tools to read codes from your ABS module and whatever else at your ALDL.
    Cool! I will run a new wire directly from ALDL Pin 9 to ECM D30. I did not think of that. I know the EBCM is wired into the tan wire on my car based on the wiring diagram in the FSM. I believe that is what is causing my logging issues.

    Do you happen to know if the pins on the ALDL and ECM side are something you can easily buy? I have been trying to avoid cutting into my factory wiring. It would be nice to just throw new pins on the new wire and plug them into their correct places.

    Also, would leaving the purple D7 pin hooked up to the ECM cause any problems? That's the way it came from the factory on my car. Thanks for the help!
    1996 Camaro SS #308, M6, 3.42 (4.10 on the way), OBD-I Conv, OBX 1-7/8" Stainless Headers, Custom 3" Stainless Y Pipe, 2OTL
    355-Stock Crank, 6" Forged Rods, Forged Pistons-11.5:1 SCR
    LE2 Heads, LE2 Ported Intake, LE/Lunati 231/239 110 LSA Cam, Comp Pro Mag 1.6 RRA, Bosch III 30-lb Inj, Stock TB, Tune In Progress

  8. #923

  9. #924
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    Quote Originally Posted by steveo View Post
    all that matters is PIN 9 at the ALDL connector (bottom left corner). your aldl cable only uses that one pin (and a ground).

    ensure it is connected to D30 @ your ECM (blue 30), this is usually a tan wire. trace that tan wire and make sure nothing else is spliced into it.

    i usually run a fresh wire for it to ensure data integrity.

    disconnect D7 at the ECM (purple wire), it's not needed, but that way you can still use OBD-II diagnostic tools to read codes from your ABS module and whatever else at your ALDL.
    So I ran a new 20-ga TXL wire from my ALDL pin 9 directly to my ECM pin D30. I crimped and soldered a new pin and terminal to the ends of the wire. EFI Connection is a great place for these things! I also disconnected D7 from the ECM. I believe I should have a good ALDL connection to the ECM.

    Unfortunately I am still getting random dead spots in my logs and am not able to flash. EEhack makes it to about step 4 or 5 of the programming stability test and then fails. The really weird thing is that I was able to flash when I had the factory tan ALDL wire in place. Maybe that was a fluke? I am able to read the bin with Winflash but did not try writing anything out of fear of bricking the ECM.

    Could this be related to the cable? I am using this one from Red Devil River. http://www.reddevilriver.com/aldl.html I took the adapter end apart and there is a resistor in the wiring in there. Would this have something to do with why I can flash when the factory tan ALDL wire is in place?

    Is there a better cable I should be using? I have tried two different laptops with no difference.

    Thanks for any help! I am stumped!
    1996 Camaro SS #308, M6, 3.42 (4.10 on the way), OBD-I Conv, OBX 1-7/8" Stainless Headers, Custom 3" Stainless Y Pipe, 2OTL
    355-Stock Crank, 6" Forged Rods, Forged Pistons-11.5:1 SCR
    LE2 Heads, LE2 Ported Intake, LE/Lunati 231/239 110 LSA Cam, Comp Pro Mag 1.6 RRA, Bosch III 30-lb Inj, Stock TB, Tune In Progress

  10. #925

  11. #926
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    What would be the best way to troubleshoot the #4 and 5 grounds on the ALDL connector? Does the cable rely on both of those or just one of them? Would it be worth trying to run a temp ground wire from 4 or 5 or both to the ground stud under the hood? Sorry for my ignorance in all of this. Definitely learning a lot!
    1996 Camaro SS #308, M6, 3.42 (4.10 on the way), OBD-I Conv, OBX 1-7/8" Stainless Headers, Custom 3" Stainless Y Pipe, 2OTL
    355-Stock Crank, 6" Forged Rods, Forged Pistons-11.5:1 SCR
    LE2 Heads, LE2 Ported Intake, LE/Lunati 231/239 110 LSA Cam, Comp Pro Mag 1.6 RRA, Bosch III 30-lb Inj, Stock TB, Tune In Progress

  12. #927
    Fuel Injected! steveo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Casey96SS View Post
    What would be the best way to troubleshoot the #4 and 5 grounds on the ALDL connector? Does the cable rely on both of those or just one of them? Would it be worth trying to run a temp ground wire from 4 or 5 or both to the ground stud under the hood? Sorry for my ignorance in all of this. Definitely learning a lot!
    worth a shot

    the cable only uses one of them but i forget which

  13. #928
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    Quote Originally Posted by steveo View Post
    worth a shot

    the cable only uses one of them but i forget which
    Well running the new ground wires directly from ALDL pins 4 and 5 to the ground post on the inner fender changed nothing. I did find that the ground stud was loose where it bolts to the fender but even tightening that did not help.

    I did some more research on the RDR cable I am using. Looks like I got one with a fake FT232RL chip. The letters on the chip appear to be printed on instead of laser etched. http://hackaday.com/2014/02/19/ft232rl-real-or-fake/

    I went ahead and ordered a Moates cable. Hopefully that solves my problem.

    I almost feels like it was easier removing and rebuilding the engine by myself than it has been to log and tune this damn car!
    1996 Camaro SS #308, M6, 3.42 (4.10 on the way), OBD-I Conv, OBX 1-7/8" Stainless Headers, Custom 3" Stainless Y Pipe, 2OTL
    355-Stock Crank, 6" Forged Rods, Forged Pistons-11.5:1 SCR
    LE2 Heads, LE2 Ported Intake, LE/Lunati 231/239 110 LSA Cam, Comp Pro Mag 1.6 RRA, Bosch III 30-lb Inj, Stock TB, Tune In Progress

  14. #929
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    Quote Originally Posted by Casey96SS View Post
    Well running the new ground wires directly from ALDL pins 4 and 5 to the ground post on the inner fender changed nothing. I did find that the ground stud was loose where it bolts to the fender but even tightening that did not help.

    I did some more research on the RDR cable I am using. Looks like I got one with a fake FT232RL chip. The letters on the chip appear to be printed on instead of laser etched. http://hackaday.com/2014/02/19/ft232rl-real-or-fake/

    I went ahead and ordered a Moates cable. Hopefully that solves my problem.

    I almost feels like it was easier removing and rebuilding the engine by myself than it has been to log and tune this damn car!
    Major victory today! It looks like all of the issues I was having were due to the Red Devil River cable and the fake FT232RL chip. The Moates cable I ordered works perfectly. No dead spots while logging and no errors with the programming stability test. I did not try flashing anything yet, but I am assuming it should work without a problem. Best of all my AEM wideband now works with EEHack!

    I sure spent a lot of time messing around with this just to find out an $80 cable was the problem. I guess at least I now have a nice clean wire for my ALDL data in my car and I also wired the wideband data directly to the ECM D27 pin while it was apart. Looking forward to working on the tune for this thing! (maybe)
    1996 Camaro SS #308, M6, 3.42 (4.10 on the way), OBD-I Conv, OBX 1-7/8" Stainless Headers, Custom 3" Stainless Y Pipe, 2OTL
    355-Stock Crank, 6" Forged Rods, Forged Pistons-11.5:1 SCR
    LE2 Heads, LE2 Ported Intake, LE/Lunati 231/239 110 LSA Cam, Comp Pro Mag 1.6 RRA, Bosch III 30-lb Inj, Stock TB, Tune In Progress

  15. #930
    Fuel Injected! steveo's Avatar
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    i'm always hesitant to blame the cable in these cases (since if it ends up being my code's fault then i feel bad), and i do get a lot of them

    ... but it's always the cable

    ... 'cause my code is never bad

    in reality, my software doesn't interact with the serial port directly, it uses QT's serial port abstraction layer, written by real programmers, not hacks like me. so there'd have to be a bug in that, or a bug in the usb/serial driver. otherwise every user would be affected.

    this does help too, as the serial driver usually defaults to high latency, not so good for our purposes: http://fbodytech.com/ftdi-serial-lat...readed-eehack/

    another aldl problem i've seen involves people powering their laptops from their car's cigarette lighter. you can end up with weird ground faults if your power supply sucks. try running off of battery power (so the only ground to your car is through the aldl port)

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