if you're lucky, you'll be able to thread the sensor in place of the high-side switch?
Grabbed a tank from a Gen2 Blazer, so the fuel sending unit isn't the correct one for the dash gauges. (Dash gauge wants 0-90 ohms, Gen2 blazer is 40-240 ohms) The solution, I think, is to cannibalize a Gen1 S-10 pump hanger and swap the sending units. Blazer pump arm is a different shape though, so either will need to be a gen1 blazer sender or will need some work. At least this sending unit has the correct pump hanger, no mods needed.
I went to a new You-Pull yard today, was a boon as they don't slash the tank like most yards do, just a nice neat 25mm hole cut in.
A little file work to clean off the galvanization, slapped a patch on the tank, and pressure tested with water to 20PSI.
Now I gotta get this bit of junk out of tank, it's pretty clean inside other than that.
Tomorrow I'm gonna try to pull the bed off and see what I can get done as far as mounting the tank. I chopped out a fuel filler door from a Gen1 truck, just need to get the tank mounted and lock down the fuel door location along the length of the bed. I'm going to be cutting it in right at the same vertical level, so need to figure on how low the tank needs to be to make it fill correctly. Last thing I want is a tank that chokes at the pump, or that can't be filled at all!
Heh, ten minutes after I posted the above, I managed to swap a spare Chevy sending unit onto the Blazer one. A little fiddling got the float arm on it, and whadda ya know, it works out to be 10 ohms to 100 ohms...supposed to be 0 to 90 ohms, but it seems close enough.
Cut the foam wrap on the fuel pump to check the part number, whadda ya know, it's already been changed out for a Delco EP381...same pump I put in the front tank. Double score! Needs a new fuel strainer, I'll risk a lot but I won't risk that. Six bucks is cheap insurance for the junkyard pump.
Now, a bit of wire, bit of steel, bit of swearing, and it'll all be together again.
Have to run some fuel lines in the truck, so I started looking for a Parker Tubing Bead Roller tool to put proper hose beads in the end of the tubing. The price was SKY-HIGH for a new one and I couldn't find a used one, so I made a few of them myself. They seem to work just fine.
Will be a big help in hose retainment on the high pressure fuel lines.
Also started the rustectomy, this is the doubler panel behind the seat that is right below the rear window-the speaker wiring runs through here.
Started cutting it out and this is what the back side looked like:
The actual outside layer of the cab however was completely unrusty-just a little blackening, no pits or anything. A patch will get welded in and painted, job done.
Also hit the big 2 today:
Time to get on it and finish this engine swap. Only lack a little wiring and some hoses, and a little sawz-all work on the hood...
Ok, so been working on finishing up the wiring. Basically connectorizing everything I "need" to run the PCM. I'm down to the following:
Serial Data-ALDL data line
Vehicle Speed-this is a 4000 PPM speedo drive.
Oil Pressure-Does what it says on the tin.
Clutch Anticipate-Not sure on this one. I have an automatic harness and PCM...
SES light-this grounds to light the SES light.
Diagnostic Request-Dunno. Probably goes with the ALDL stuff.
Tachometer to Cluster-would go to the gauge cluster-wish I had a tachometer for it to go to though.
A/C request-I *think* this needs to go to the Low-Pressure Cutout switch, as that's where the 8052 PCM gets this line from.
Now, speaking of A/C, the truck I have uses ONLY a low-pressure switch, so I'll have to splice in the high-pressure sensor port in the high pressure line. The original low-pressure switch will just go unused, as the 4373 doesn't use it, nor does the 6397.
I'm still trying to work out the Clutch Anticipate switch connections, is it an active-high, or active-low, how does it hook up to the current clutch switch, etc.
Looks like the Auto harness does not have the pin in the right place-even though it claims to use that pin for other stuff, there is no A22 pin in there. I'll have to repurpose one.
Bought myself another truck to drive while I work on this-plan is to strip the engine bay out and paint the firewall, then get this ECU and engine combo installed. Wish me luck in getting it done before I sell the new truck!
So, I'll never buy another GM product with the drive-by-wire throttle. Biggest nightmare I've ever dealt with...after replacing the throttle, throttle wiring to computer, accelerator pedal, ECM, BCM, complete engine wiring harness, complete body harness, AND the fuse block assembly...
The P2135 code in my "drive this" truck STILL plagues it. And on top of that the 2.8L 4-cylinder shit a rod bearing out, as evidenced by the knocking and glitter in my engine oil.
Soooo....Anyone wanna buy an engine swap canadate? 2005 GMC Canyon...I'll make you a sweet deal! (Or I'll do a OBD2 3500V6 swap...)
Back to your regularly scheduled (yeah, right) updates, I'm taking the afternoon to finish up the remainder of the wiring for the project truck. So far, not much has changed but I do have a complete(ish) fuse block connector, so I should be able to work on that some. Unfortunately due to the newly crapped out rod-bearing, I'll be driving the project truck. Not a good plan, but it is what it is.
Time to dig back into the wiring diagrams and get the harnesses finished 100%!
So this happened...
There are some bugs to sand out. One bug in particular jumped onto the panel RIGHT as we were spraying the first coat of clear and I didn't catch him until we were done...he is perfectly preserved for eternity. The rest of them will sand out, as they're standing on top the clear.
Now THIS is what primer should look like off the gun, alright alright!
Sanded out to 600 grit wet, that spot of sanded-through-to-filler will bite me in the ass later:
Totally spaced on getting any shots of the sealer...it makes the whole thing feel like a grey plastic milk jug, and you totally doubt it'll look any good at all in that stage. Oh well. Also spaced out on getting photos of the minor color-because I'm a doof. I do have shots of masking over the gunmetal getting ready to spray today, though!
Taping over raw basecoat is not exactly recommended, but it works for me. I'll have to get a photo of WHY it's not recommended as I had an issue in one of the fenders, but it's way too late to fix it at the point I discovered it...I used the wrong type of masking paper and shot blue clean through it. One of the fenders has a tiny bit of blue overspray on top of the gunmetal, and since the metallic basecoat can't be sanded, nor wiped with reducer, and can only just be nibbed without fucking with it...I'll have to live with it and learn from it.
All taped up and ready to shoot the major color!
Blue is on, still taped up there. No clear on that yet...not too shabby for painting it on the loading dock!
Final clear on, letting it flash off here-the bugs don't show in the photos, but they're still there.
Drug the cab out into the sun to try and get some heat into it, and so we could see both colors together for the first time:
And the fenders under "streetlamp" type lighting, the sun was too bright to get a glare-free enough photo.
Pretty fuckin' stoked, guys. Pretty fuckin' stoked.
Got this thing cranked over and ran a little tonight-having some fairly irritating issues with Tunerpro to work out. It cranks up and fires off immediately, but will stall out unless I keep the RPM's over 1800, anything over 1800RPM is fine. Could be a lot of things there, tuning, cam, blower in bypass mode, etc. Can't know yet. Still haven't got the O2 sensors in the pipes yet, that happens tomarrow. Tunerpro seems to have a very dirty data stream-it's somewhat difficult to connect(Easy to connect if I connect within a few seconds of turning the ECU on)but once connected, the RPM/CoolantTemp/BatteryVolts etc all will cease updating, drop to implausible numbers, and update slowly, then all the sudden back to normal for a few seconds, then update slowly, implausible numbers, etc. Gotta be a datastream issue. Need to mount the battery and actually assemble the vehicle, right now the battery is laying on the ground with the cables run out the fenderwell...it actually belongs behind the driver's seat. Once the battery is mounted and I have the exhaust roughed in, I'll drive it back to the house and get actual usable, data for you guys here to see what's going on.
Have the exhaust finished up far enough to get the O2 sensors in it, that should take care of any DTCs that would be set-now to seal up the leaking accessory bolt to keep the coolant inside the engine, and things should be ready for the actual run-in. Hope to get better data regarding the Tunerpro connection issues this evening, seems that it might be the DIC chatter.
Turns out the DTC's were transmission fluid temperature out of range. Also, Scan94/95 seems to think I don't have a cam signal? dunno. Working on that bit later, I think. Engine wouldn't run under 2000RPM due to the patch being applied for the 2/3 bar map sensor, but the flag to toggle the 2/3 bar map sensor usage was unset. I set the flag, flashed the ECM, and now the map sensor works correctly. Curiously enough, when the computer thought I was making 20Kpa at 2000RPM, the fueling was spot on... What did we decide about baro updates and being able to datalog the wideband signal on that AD0 pin? Those will be important shortly, both can be worked around easy enough in hardware. Really if the AD0 pin was just converted to a 0-255 value and sent out to Tunerpro, I think that'd be plenty enough, just like logging battery voltage or similar. Dunno what to do with the baro updates, other than just do the baro updates when RPM = 0
at this point, memory isn't much of an asset... if you're certain it was AD0(E-side mux'd signal anyways), about the only thing required would be to remove the A/D to real-world conversion on the a/c pressure sensor item and change it to whatever matches your wideband controller for an AFR signal. that's all done in a few clicks in tunerpro. it's already sent out in the datastream as a raw A/D conversion. baro updates.... may be stuck with only having updates with the engine off. I'm not sure what I did in the code about it at this point, I would have to dig around and rediscover. to have it update at any other time would absolutely require a dedicated barometric sensor.