Boost control solenoid isn't much, maybe half an amp at most. Intercooler pump draws 10-15amps, so it will be on a relay. I took your advice and am starting with a 94 L-body bin.
Boost control solenoid isn't much, maybe half an amp at most. Intercooler pump draws 10-15amps, so it will be on a relay. I took your advice and am starting with a 94 L-body bin.
i would put a meter on it at least once.... I wasn't expecting the linear EGR solenoids to pull over 2 amps and have to design a " quad driver current booster" module to account for it.
1995 Chevrolet Monte Carlo LS 3100 + 4T60E
I'll throw a meter on it when the sun comes up, I have five or six suitable vacuum switches.
Measured some of the boost control solenoids I have, all of them measured 36-48 ohms. Under a half amp, no problems there.
Got the upper intake manifold and supercharger mounting plate drilled, tapped, and countersunk today for the supercharger mounting plate. I may start assembling the engine next week, and just use the camaro oil pan to keep the sump covered and clean until I can buy another S10 oil pan.
Just need the oil pan and to make new pushrods, and that'll have the engine assembled all the way up to the lower intake manifold. That's the stage I need to get to in order to set the belt drive up and the super positioned properly on the manifold. Until I have the supercharger position nailed down, I can't machine for the intercooler core.
Of course I could just dummy everything up...which is the right way to do this.
Am installing the added circuitry for the general purpose A/D input on the ECM right now. I am thinking instead of pin A28, which is allll the way on the other side of the ECM, why not just use C7? So that's what I did. There's nothing at all tied to C7 on any diagram I found so I just appropriated it.
After adding the A/D input onto Pin 60 of the E-side MCU, the ECM still flashes and appears to function completely normally. Of course, I can't see it do anything yet really, but at least nothing got broken yet.
On the hardware side of things I've managed to butcher the top plate, things are slightly wonky but everything is going to seal up fine and nothing is a deal-breaker. And on the outside of things it looks like it's meant to be that way, so it's all good.
Dummied up the engine for the ten minutes it took to measure for the supercharger belt alignment, got all that worked out. Once the belt alignment was known, the rest of the top plate was easily hacked out and the intercooler core positioned. I still need to get proper screws for everything but so far the pile of bolts in the floor has provided everything I have needed. (A literal pile of bolts in the floor, when I go to the junkyard I collect free bolts and then dump'em in the floor to sweep the dust off)
Next up is the water lines, how to get them in and out of the manifold and intercooler core.
that can work, assuming there isn't connection to the pin anywhere else on the board(and damn can they get difficult to find)... I get around that by just cutting the pin off of the board entirely and soldering to the "stub" left on the connector.Originally Posted by Xnke
1995 Chevrolet Monte Carlo LS 3100 + 4T60E
Forgot to do the rocker arm thing today. I'll get around to it...
I did assemble the Tower Of Power today, needed to figure out what to get to make the throttle body fit where it belongs. This may be a wide flat cowl hood when I finally get it on there...
Gonna have to address this problem...
It's possible I'll need to add a little metal to the back of the base plate, but more likely I will need to add a bolt boss to the supercharger case. It's doable.
And this is why. The bypass valve pretty much straddles this screw, there's plenty open area there to flow air through but I'll have to bevel and radius the opening to make airflow smooth, to keep bypass noise down. I didn't do this on the datsun and the bypass valve is FUCKING LOUD.
I did get the intercooler core mounted, just gotta work out the tubing inside the intake manifold. May get interesting.
The Tower, minus the cylinder head I didn't need. I may bolt it up tomarrow to level things out, but for what I needed, it was just more bolts.
And this is where I want the throttle body to sit, If I can get it here then I will have absolutely no problem removing the valve cover without unbolting the supercharger. Will take a 135 or 180* 3" aluminum bend, Or I could be a cheap bastard and pie-cut it.
If I were to pie-cut it it would be hours of grinding and sanding inside the bend to get it smooth, so it may be worth it just to get an aluminum bend when I order more exhaust parts.
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