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Thread: 0411 PCM usage Dave W. please comment

  1. #1
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    0411 PCM usage Dave W. please comment

    Considering converting to 0411 PCM in '95 Chev Pickup w/SBC. Already have PCM, motorized throttle body, electronic gas pedal and harness for PCM and TAC module. Lack the TAC module and EFI Live tuner package. Was going to use this package for SBC in 1971 Datsun 240Z. Shelved it in favor of Electromotive TEC-3 system. Looks like they are both EXPENSIVE. Considering using the GM package in the '95 chev pickup. Then would build up 383 stroker with Holley 4 barrel EFI manifold and use GM system. 800+ dollars to EFI Live tuner system! Just have to bite the bullet and purchase same. Already have stroker block, piston and rings for same, just need crank and rods. Also have AFR-195 heads for it. Should make a powerful combo. Have the PCM modified to RoadRunner by Moates. Then can tune on the fly. Would have to add wiring for 4L60E trans.

    Dave W. comments on this type project please..

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    Quote Originally Posted by rsicard View Post
    Considering converting to 0411 PCM in '95 Chev Pickup w/SBC. Already have PCM, motorized throttle body, electronic gas pedal and harness for PCM and TAC module. Lack the TAC module and EFI Live tuner package. Was going to use this package for SBC in 1971 Datsun 240Z. Shelved it in favor of Electromotive TEC-3 system. Looks like they are both EXPENSIVE. Considering using the GM package in the '95 chev pickup. Then would build up 383 stroker with Holley 4 barrel EFI manifold and use GM system. 800+ dollars to EFI Live tuner system! Just have to bite the bullet and purchase same. Already have stroker block, piston and rings for same, just need crank and rods. Also have AFR-195 heads for it. Should make a powerful combo. Have the PCM modified to RoadRunner by Moates. Then can tune on the fly. Would have to add wiring for 4L60E trans.

    Dave W. comments on this type project please..
    Not sure why anyone would want to convert to drive by wire from cable operated.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Fast355 View Post
    Not sure why anyone would want to convert to drive by wire from cable operated.
    Two advantages, one is the harness is already made. Second, cruise control uses motor in throttle body. Just wire it up and have cruise control. No hassels about mechanical cable.

  4. #4
    What base file are you planning on? That will determine what tac module. Well, now that I see you have a pedal.... What pedal do you have?

    I would go drive by wire in a heartbeat. We have raced off road and build many harnesses for drive by wire off road rigs. Its all in Ultra 4 racing, King of the Hammers.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Skinny Pedal View Post
    What base file are you planning on? That will determine what tac module. Well, now that I see you have a pedal.... What pedal do you have?

    I would go drive by wire in a heartbeat. We have raced off road and build many harnesses for drive by wire off road rigs. Its all in Ultra 4 racing, King of the Hammers.
    Have not researched the binary files for 0411 PCM. So far as I know there are 2 TAC modules. The newer PCMs have the TAC module functions contained within. Do you have any suggestions as to what base file to use with what GM part number TAC module. I have the one that will not work with the 0411 PCM with the custom harness I have.

    I think Dave W. is pissed off at me as I was trying to invoke his comments. No joy. I am trying to get this 350 Vortec running well enough, with 16197427 ECU, to transplant into my '95 pickup. Have run into ignition timing situation wherein TunerPro says on thing and the timing light on the balancer says something else. Checked voltage on Knock sensor wire. LOTS of AC voltage NOISE on knock sensor input. Go figure. Comments please. Thanks.

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    Super Moderator dave w's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rsicard View Post
    I think Dave W. is pissed off at me as I was trying to invoke his comments. No joy. I am trying to get this 350 Vortec running well enough, with 16197427 ECU, to transplant into my '95 pickup. Have run into ignition timing situation wherein TunerPro says on thing and the timing light on the balancer says something else. Checked voltage on Knock sensor wire. LOTS of AC voltage NOISE on knock sensor input. Go figure. Comments please. Thanks.
    I'm not pissed off, I am busy person. I hold down a full time job, and operate a small EFi business. I enjoy helping others, but my employer / customers are a higher priority. I've considered upgrading my 93 K1500 to a 5.3 LS engine, mostly to increase my custom LSx wiring harness business.

    For budget reasons, I would use the 2002 Express Van Vortec '0411 system on a SBC. I would avoid Drive by Wire. Everything for OBD2 tuning is expensive!

    Troubleshooting is not easy. Troubleshooting over a keyboard can be very challenging! I don't like seeing someone waste time and money when troubleshooting. With an engine that is 100% original and 100% completely stock, troubleshooting strictly by the technical book is helpful. When an engine is not 100% original and not 100% stock, the individual doing the troubleshooting will usually require more troubleshooting experience than the technical book typically offer. Myself and other members here at gearhead-efi.com often share troubleshooting experience to other members.

    It seems to me, you have more than one thing not 100% correct. I would focus on one problem at a time. I would configure the ESC (Knock System) to 100% factory stock wiring and parts. Usually having things configured like it was when it left the factory is a good plan.

    dave w

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    Quote Originally Posted by dave w View Post
    I'm not pissed off, I am busy person. I hold down a full time job, and operate a small EFi business. I enjoy helping others, but my employer / customers are a higher priority. I've considered upgrading my 93 K1500 to a 5.3 LS engine, mostly to increase my custom LSx wiring harness business.

    For budget reasons, I would use the 2002 Express Van Vortec '0411 system on a SBC. I would avoid Drive by Wire. Everything for OBD2 tuning is expensive!

    Troubleshooting is not easy. Troubleshooting over a keyboard can be very challenging! I don't like seeing someone waste time and money when troubleshooting. With an engine that is 100% original and 100% completely stock, troubleshooting strictly by the technical book is helpful. When an engine is not 100% original and not 100% stock, the individual doing the troubleshooting will usually require more troubleshooting experience than the technical book typically offer. Myself and other members here at gearhead-efi.com often share troubleshooting experience to other members.

    It seems to me, you have more than one thing not 100% correct. I would focus on one problem at a time. I would configure the ESC (Knock System) to 100% factory stock wiring and parts. Usually having things configured like it was when it left the factory is a good plan.

    dave w
    Dave: Thanks for the comments. I will correct the issues encountered one at a time. Rerouted ESC wire away from spark plug wiring. inserted 3,3 Kohm resistor in the ESC wire to ground. Measured DC and AC voltages across the resistor. AC volts in the low milli-volt realm. Before was VERY HIGH AC voltage. Learning this, will route other sensitive inputs such as TPS and MAP as far away from spark plug wiring as possible. May resort to shielded twisted 3 wire to keep radiated noise way down.

    An aside, read an article about EFI connection conversion of SBC with Gen III PCM, coils etc. The gist of the article was that separate coils per cylinder gives each coil time to settle electrically before next firing. Therefore, there is more spark energy released per coil yielding increase in TQ and HP. Interesting article.

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    Super Moderator dave w's Avatar
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    The knock sensor specification shows 3.9K ~ 4.1K ohms.

    dave w

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    What pedal do you already have?

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    Quote Originally Posted by dave w View Post
    The knock sensor specification shows 3.9K ~ 4.1K ohms.

    dave w
    Understand.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Skinny Pedal View Post
    What pedal do you already have?
    From what I can remember, it works with the 0411 PCM.

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    I understand that but there is a difference in a truck pedal, vette, caddy......... Once you get into the 1 meg blue/green ecm it all changes as far as compatibility.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Skinny Pedal View Post
    I understand that but there is a difference in a truck pedal, vette, caddy......... Once you get into the 1 meg blue/green ecm it all changes as far as compatibility.
    I think it is a vette pedal assy. Need to go back and check for compatible TAC module GM part number. The 0411 PCM, TAC module and pedal assy go together as a compatible group. For some reason, others are afraid of TAC modules and electronic gas pedals. Appears that they are the early generation of drive by wire prior to incorporation of this function within the PCM proper.

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    Quote Originally Posted by rsicard View Post
    I think it is a vette pedal assy. Need to go back and check for compatible TAC module GM part number. The 0411 PCM, TAC module and pedal assy go together as a compatible group. For some reason, others are afraid of TAC modules and electronic gas pedals. Appears that they are the early generation of drive by wire prior to incorporation of this function within the PCM proper.
    They have good reason to be concerned, many of people end up frying parts that aren't compatible. Sometimes changes to the throttle mapping in the PCM itself have corrupted the PCM beyond repair. I am on my 4th vehicle with OEM drive by wire and I have hated them all on factory tuning. The absolute worst is my 2014 Nissan Sentra with the 6spd stick. Its almost impossible to get it to respond the same way to the pedal every time.
    Last edited by Fast355; 03-27-2015 at 10:23 PM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Fast355 View Post
    They have good reason to be concerned, many of people end up frying parts that aren't compatible. Sometimes changes to the throttle mapping in the PCM itself have corrupted the PCM beyond repair. I am on my 4th vehicle with OEM drive by wire and I have hated them all on factory tuning. The absolute worst is my 2014 Nissan Sentra with the 6spd stick. Its almost impossible to get it to respond the same way to the pedal every time.
    The TAC module should only control the TB motor taking two position pot signals and communicating with the PCM via CAN serial data bus. Should be straight forward. The TAC module/ gas pedal functions are now contained within the PCM itself. Perhaps the TAC module tech was not as mature as it should be. Have a 2011 VW Jetta TDI DSG wagon with only one occasional go pedal anomoly. Otherwise go pedal responds fairly well. The Germans did a good job with the algorithms and CAN communications. Its pretty smart embedded computer tech. Suspect the Nissan's algorithms need refining.

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