Running a 16197427 PCM with TunerPro RT. Set the base timing by disconnecting wire from Distributor to PCM. Set with timing light on balancer to zero degrees. Reconnected wire from distributor. Timing as seen on the TunerPro screen is something totally different from that read off the balancer with timing light. Should I disconnect the knock sensor and insert a 1Kohm resistor in place of the knock sensor then adjust the timing tables in TunerPro?
Did you clear the codes after reconnecting the distributor wire? When I've had that happen, it was a bad ignition module. It's even happened to me with brand new modules. TunerPro should be telling you the amount of knock retard and knock counts, so I'd only do something to knock if things are out of hand there. For testing, you can zero out the knock retard and see what that does, but I wouldn't keep it that way long term.
1973 K-5 Blazer, TBI 350, TH400, 1 ton axles & 38" SSRs'
1975 280Z, TBI 350, 700R4
1953 M-38A1, TBI Buick 231
1951 Ford Panel, 5.3 with 4L80E
Assume I am a newbie which I am stumbling through this stuff. How does one go about clearing the codes? This distributor is new, yet I will try another module. I see thousands of knock counts and have zero understanding of what that means. Need an education on this stuff. How does one go about zeroing out the knock retard numbers. What is the hell do they mean? Have measured the knock sensor wire previously, not connected to knock sensor, and measured a LOT of AC noise on the line? Don't know what that is all about!Originally Posted by fastacton
Trying to understand what is going on here and getting very confused. Trying to get this engine to run OK so that it can replace one in the pickup.
You can clear the codes by disconnecting the battery (or power from the computer) for about 30 seconds. Hopefully someone else can chime in as well as I'm not an expert on knock count issues, but that sounds like a lot of knock without any load on the engine. I would think you can disable knock retard by maxing out "Minimum RPM for Knock Retard" in the Knock Retard Parameters section (I don't know if that will take care of burst knock as well or if you have to change something there as well).
1973 K-5 Blazer, TBI 350, TH400, 1 ton axles & 38" SSRs'
1975 280Z, TBI 350, 700R4
1953 M-38A1, TBI Buick 231
1951 Ford Panel, 5.3 with 4L80E
three things I can think of. 1. is your adx file setup for 0* 2. is you balancer slipping on the rubber sleeve? 3. is it the correct timing mark for that balancer (there are two that I know of).
87 4Runner, 15" spring lift, 3" body, chevy vortec 355, 5.29 gears, 38.5x15.5x15" Boggers, 280hr, 16168625 running $0D
93 S10, 36x12.5x15 TSL's, custom turbo headers, 266HR cam, p&p vortec heads, $0D Marine MPFI with 8psi boost.
05 Silverado, 2' lift, 4" exhaust, Bully Dog programmer,
Don't understand the adx file setup thing. Relative newbie at TunerPro. 16197427 ECU seems over complicated, and strange terminology, in TunerPro. Can you shed any light. The timing issue is that what TunerPro reads and what is seen on the balancer with timing light are TWO different things. Go figure. Took extra care to index the graduated balancer on the engine. Stuck and object into cylinder number 1 to ascertain top dead center, then adjusted custom timing pointer to zero. Maybe one or two degrees off, but that is minor. Balancer is Fluidyne. No rubber sleeve to slip. Prefer Fluidyne balancers as most effective type for balancing throughout RPM range. Others resonate, not good, at differing RPMs. Fluid does not resonate it dampens resonation.
Beginning to suspect EMI/RFI interference on the Knock Sensor input line. Lots of AC noise measured on the Knock Sensor wire. Should be a way to nullify the knock sensor input.
Comments please.
How far off is it? What does tunerpro say and what are you reading on the balancer?
79 Jeep Cherokee, AMC 401, T-18 manual trans, hydroboost, 16197427 MPFI system---the toy
93 Jeep YJ Wrangler, 4.0L, 5 speed, 8.8 rear, homebrew hub conversion and big brakes, hydroboost, 2.5in OME lift, 31x10.50's---the daily driver
99 Jeep WJ Grand Cherokee limited, 4.0L, auto, 2wd, leather and power everything, 99% stock---the long distance highway ride.
Timing light on the balancer reads from 0 to 10 degrees advanced. TunerPro says everything from 14 to 27 degrees of advance based on RPM and other parameters. Last evening inserted 3.3 Kohm resistor in series with knock sensor wire to ground. Measured DC and AC volts. DC was 2.1 and AC was low millivolts which is very good. Routed the knock sensor wire away from spark plug wires. Suspect they have high EMI radiation level inducing noise into adjacent wiring. May reroute TPS and MAP wires also. Would like to replace with twisted shielded cable to keep EMI noise out.
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