Micro-mini startup Guide for Beginners

[RobertISaar]

for datalogging, XDF is not required.

[E129745]

OK.
.ADX used by TunerPro as data stream definition when logging dynamic data,
.XDF used by TunerPro as definition for static data such as BIN data. i.e., editing parameters
Sound about right?

[RobertISaar]

that's how it works.

[E129745]

Nice, now I can play...thanx Robert
and how do I create .XDF, hook up and save as?

[EagleMark]

http://www.gearhead-efi.com/Fuel-Inj...is-a-must-read

[E129745]

Thanks EagleMark, absolutely have been needing that and am welcoming any more direction. The tutorial concept with files available is exactly what I am needing to getting started on the learning curve.

[E129745]

Nice, now I can play...thanx Robert
and how do I create .XDF, hook up and save as?

I'm sorry. Question looks unclear in my earlier post; Do I set-up and stream/log ECM data via TunerPro and use a "save as" function in order to create needed OEM *.bin file and same for needed *.xdf file? I am not finding either of these at the designated locations here for neither 16196397 nor BLZX chip.
If not, can you post or email to me?

[RobertISaar]

to create a BIN, you'll need a different program to read the calibration through the ALDL port.

the XDF is created based on hacking through the BIN file to see what everything does. luckily, i've already done that majority of that work as i have an XDF and probably all of the 93-95 V6 flash BINs already.

[EagleMark]

I think he does not understand it's a flash PCM and not a chip?

[E129745]

OK, I'm beginning to understand a little more. Maybe I would be better to expose my original intentions...
1995 Lumina w/ 3.1L and 4T60E trans. Stock OEM and no plans to alter engine such as cam, heads, etc. Seems to have EGR issues, but doesn't effect power, MPG, or drivability as far as I can tell. CE light may come on occasionally when decelerating on off-ramp from freeway speeds, but upon restart, CE light is off until another deceleration event. It is the expensive 3 solenoid/wire EGR valve(s).
What has recently started happening is the trans. seems to shifting too soon when accelerating and stays in gear too long when coming to a stop, almost dieing. Its difficult to distinguish between not down-shifting as it should or maybe the torque convertor lock-up is staying engaged too long. I suspect the TCC is having the issue. The brake should release TCC, but doesn't seem to be. I don't know if it uses the on/off TCC solenoid function or duty-cycle means of gradual engagement of TC.
I thought if I could see real time data I might be able to get an idea of what was or wasn't happening sensor wise and maybe get some direction as to what sensor to put a VTVM to; checking for grounds and sensor operation.
I also want to look into why my ABS light remains on. I've read that I can't effectively bleed the whole system with out manually activating solenoid valving. I wanted to see if I could access the ABS module and read fault codes and/or activate valves to at least bleed system.
Those are what my ambitions are. That is why I got ALDU1 and Cable1 from Moates and downloaded TunerPro RT v5 and why my previous questions and requests. Any ideas or direction would be greatly appreciated.
Patrick

[RobertISaar]

got it.

ABS, i built a definition for as well, but it doesn't have commands built into it for solenoid tests/etc, that information just isn't available. would need to do some port sniffing on a handheld unit that has those capabilities to do that. i also have definitions built to play with the airbag module, should you ever need to scan it. i think that's all of the modules you would have that communicate.

the 95 4T60E has 2 TCC circuits, one is on/off, the other is PWM. the on/off is the TCC itself, the TCC PWM takes over the job of the TCC accumulator and controls line pressure to the TCC.

since the shift points are entirely controlled by the shift solenoids, i would say that watching the TPS% would be the first place i would go.

[E129745]

OK, I Understood Robert. TPS volts and % look good, in Volt range, 0-100%, smooth and linear, not glitchy. I may have sticking TCC valving but, the release at 2-3 mph coming to a stop is extremely consistent and besides, when accelerating the up-shift point wouldn't occur until higher VS. I assume VS sensor is reading good, I haven't driven with PCU logging in TunerPro as I'm logging in CTW mode (cable-thru-window mode) no lap-top. Also my Speedometer reads accurate, although odometer rarely ticks tenths, maybe 20 miles in 5 years.

[RobertISaar]

hm..... had something similar happen to someone on the W-body forum last year...... he hasn't opened the trans up yet that i know of, but is expecting broken accumulator springs among a potential valve body issue.

[E129745]

hmmm, sounds suspiciously like my initial thoughts, I moved them aside with the idea to get fault codes read. Local Autozone, O'Rielly,etc couldn't get any codes out. "95 and all. And that's when I continued on down this road you found me on.
Do you think the odometer not adding distance is likely an in the dash issue? I pulled it out and cleaned the gear mechanism and lubed with very light oil, like gun oil way back 6 or so years ago and it probably worked for about a week, then went to sleep. Looks to me like the VSS sends pulses that excite the gear pinion on the odometer gear train. The pulses are causing the Speedo needle to indicate, but odometer is a no-go.
I thank you for your thoughtful time.
Patrick

[RobertISaar]

the 1.5W(95-99 monte carlo and 95-01 lumina) have odd instrument cluster issues at times....

assuming you have a tach, it probably reads quite high at times compared to what you see in the datastream.... coolant temp guage can go all stupid. fuel guage swings around like a monkey on cocaine with even the slightest bump in the road.... ABS light turning on/off on it's own, even with the ABS computer disconnected.... low coolant light doing odd things....

i've never had the odometer drive go out, nor have i seen it happen, but it doesn't really surprise me. i've studied the PCB and it does seem to be more or less directly driven off of the 4K PPM signal. the speedo being at least close to accurate would imply that the pulses exist that far in but the odometer isn't rolling, the pulses eventually get pushed into a frequency to voltage IC and the variable voltage drives the needles.

since cleaning it seems to have brought it back to life at least temporarily, i'd say doing it enough times or even replacing the "module" and adjusting the miles shown would fix it.