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Thread: My twin supercharged tbi 350 miata build

  1. #31
    Fuel Injected! brian617's Avatar
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    Maybe a later model GM serp set up, then bolt another pulley to the front of the water pump to drive the SC's?

    Last edited by brian617; 03-12-2015 at 01:37 AM.
    89 K1500 Scottsdale 5.7L 5spd 3:42 RamJet cam Dart iron TBI heads 427 PCM swap
    95 C2500 Cheyenne 6.5L turbo diesel 4L80e 4:10 DB2-4911 Manual pump conversion 0411 PCM trans control 2Bar COS
    05 Outback XT 2.5L turbo gas auto

  2. #32
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    No idea.

    These are the only pictures that i have to go off of.

    https://www.google.com/search?q=satu...h=677#imgdii=_

  3. #33
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    you also gotta think, it's going in a miata so i gotta keep it as compact as possible. can't run my alternator on the lower passenger side of the block cause of my sway bar. I have to use a modified one because the crank pulley is in the way of it.

  4. #34
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    I know it sucks to change things around but their is a way their somewhere. What if you move the drivers side blower further forward like the passenger side, then you can get a longer belt and to go around both superchargers crank and alternator and clear the water pump and power steering.

  5. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by joegreen View Post
    I know it sucks to change things around but their is a way their somewhere. What if you move the drivers side blower further forward like the passenger side, then you can get a longer belt and to go around both superchargers crank and alternator and clear the water pump and power steering.
    They are even. I can get a belt long enough to wrap around everything by adding 1 more idler, HOWEVER, it touches the waterpump twice. I don't know if that will cause any issues.

    [See page 2 of this thread for what im talking about]

  6. #36
    Fuel Injected! Roadknee's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shawn1989 View Post
    Ok, about the single belt......

    Can i run it like this without any problems? [comes in contact with the waterpump twice]

    IF so, i can pick up another belt right now; all i would need to do is add another idler where the red dot is.



    How about this: Instead of wrapping the belt around the idler below the red dot, bring the belt up and wrap it around the alternator? This will provide more alternator contact and close to 180 degrees contact on the bottom of the water pump. The belt would run straight from the top of one supercharger pulley to the next. You could add another idler near the alternator bracket to bring the belt down between the superchargers if needed. You might also lock out one of the spring loaded tensioners. I'm not certain but the two of them could work against one another and cause problems.
    Last edited by Roadknee; 03-12-2015 at 06:08 AM.

  7. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by Roadknee View Post
    How about this: Instead of wrapping the belt around the idler below the red dot, bring the belt up and wrap it around the alternator? This will provide more alternator contact and close to 180 degrees contact on the bottom of the water pump. The belt would run straight from the top of one supercharger pulley to the next. You could add another idler near the alternator bracket to bring the belt down between the superchargers if needed. You might also lock out one of the spring loaded tensioners. I'm not certain but the two of them could work against one another and cause problems.
    can you edit the original in paint and show me what you mean by that?
    the way that i see it, is too big of a gap for the supercharger span so another idler would be needed.

  8. #38
    Super Moderator Six_Shooter's Avatar
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    Here are a few ideas I've come up with:

    If you swapped to a Honda alternator (Older B,D series etc where the engine rotates opposite most engines) and used a smooth pulley, you could go with this first idea. The Honda alternator is to have proper cooling. A GM alternator will charge when spun backwards but cooling is less effective.


    This next one would work if you went with a shorter power steering belt that only wraps around the crank pulley and the power steering pump (or no power steering pump at all). You would find that belts would wear out quickly due to different driven/drive ratios of the power steering and other accessory belt(s) if you tried to wrap two belts around both the crank and water pump pulleys. Also replace the driver side tensioner with a static idler pulley.




    The next idea requires moving the driver side supercharger forward, and adding a second cranlley stacked onto the existing crank pulley (many SC kits do this).



    The final idea requires swapping teh water pump and power steering pump for serpentine drive units.



    Honestly I'm not really liking any of the ideas enough to do them myself, I would go a different route entirely if it was me and wanted two super chargers.
    The man who says something is impossible, is usually interrupted by the man doing it.

  9. #39
    Fuel Injected! Roadknee's Avatar
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    Something like this

  10. #40
    Fuel Injected! brian617's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Roadknee View Post
    Something like this
    I came up with similar in my head, but alternator would be spinning backwards and on flat side of belt.
    89 K1500 Scottsdale 5.7L 5spd 3:42 RamJet cam Dart iron TBI heads 427 PCM swap
    95 C2500 Cheyenne 6.5L turbo diesel 4L80e 4:10 DB2-4911 Manual pump conversion 0411 PCM trans control 2Bar COS
    05 Outback XT 2.5L turbo gas auto

  11. #41
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    They're air pumps.. not timing gears.. the clocking isn't that important. I assume it would change PSI output between the two slightly but nothing that would be likely very noticeable or adjustable even... Especially when they tee or hat together into the TBI.. I'd be more worried about slippage on that alternator.

    This is creative as can be, and also inspiring.. keep it up, and I hope you got yourself a fire ext close by these days. Be safe!
    Last edited by scottyd; 03-25-2015 at 05:37 PM.

  12. #42
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    well, i welded a "support bar" underneath the blower plates, got rid of 1 tensioner and replaced it with an idler to run a single belt...... painted it all up and put her in the car for a test fit.

    i already knew the hood wasn't going to close, but everything else is spot on. couldn't be any happier.






  13. #43
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    I'm really liking this. It was almost warm enough here to start working on one of my vehicles.

  14. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by 1project2many View Post
    I'm really liking this. It was almost warm enough here to start working on one of my vehicles.
    gotta love vegas :]

    125 during summer, 50 during winter :]

  15. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by scottyd View Post
    They're air pumps.. not timing gears.. the clocking isn't that important. I assume it would change PSI output between the two slightly but nothing that would be likely very noticeable or adjustable even... Especially when they tee or hat together into the TBI.. I'd be more worried about slippage on that alternator.

    This is creative as can be, and also inspiring.. keep it up, and I hope you got yourself a fire ext close by these days. Be safe!
    I'm a little late to the party, but I agree. The slight difference in speed will only result in one blower providing slightly more air than the other. The PSI will be even since they're plumbed together (I assume). My concern is whether the V belt would be able to provide enough horsepower to run the blower and whether or not the alternator would slip with the original setup.

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