As far as the throttle body, are you talking about the Holly 670 cfm or are you talking about a bored out stock unit? What is involved and what are the advantages to upgrading the computer?Originally Posted by dave w
As far as the throttle body, are you talking about the Holly 670 cfm or are you talking about a bored out stock unit? What is involved and what are the advantages to upgrading the computer?
Wow Hog, thanks for all the info, it's exactly what I was wanting to hear. I've done a lot of research and read a lot of posts about that motor and felt pretty confident about it, but now I'm ready to order it. I do plan on putting at least 4.88's if not 5.13's under it. Will I have any issues with my stock 700r4 and this motor? Thanks again. I attached a pic of my truck. I'm really excited to get it running again.
One thing I always recommend on gearing as I do quite a bit of transmission work is to take what size gears the calculator averages as stock performance equivalent and go up one size from there on mud tires if that's what your 35's are. Example is most calculators show 4.56 being ideal for 35's but they do not take thing into account things such as the extra weight associated with the larger tire as extra rotating mass is the reason I usually recommend 4.88 minimum if you will be doing a lot of highway driving or 5.13 if you will be play toy mostly offroad and mileage isn't an issue. The gearing is going to play a major part in the transmission life as well as if it is mostly just highway driven vs hard offroad use. If the transmission is mostly easy street driven it can hold up a long time with proper gearing. If it is beat on hard offroad the gears will help it last longer but it's days will be numbered. 4x4's main failures in 700r or 4l60e is in the sunshell and the input shaft to drum from shock loads. It can be built to handle it but in its stock form it is a light duty transmission being used in a heavy duty form being offroad. Just remember to be easy on it and it will be much happier.
It's the original 87 700R4? It could become an issue, especially since it has wear and tear on it.
The guy I bought it from said he just had it rebuilt with a shift kit, but he also said a lot of things that turned out to be false. It does have good solid shifts and the TC looks brand new so maybe it is.
The Holley Throttle Body is one of the 670 CFM options, the other 670 CFM Throttle Body option is the Big Block Chevy 454 Throttle Body.
The 93 ~ 95 TBI computer with Red / Blue connectors is 8192 Baud / 64K PROM. The early TBI computer is 160 Baud / 4K PROM. The 93 ~ 95 TBI computer with Red / Blue connectors is about 51.2 times faster and the PROM has 16 times more memory.
Don't tell anyone about the Red / Blue TBI computer, prices might increase.The Red / Blue TBI computer is the secret to an AWESOME TBI system!
dave w
Thanks Dave. Here is a computer I found on ebay: http://m.ebay.com/itm/391042139144?nav=SEARCHThe Holley Throttle Body is one of the 670 CFM options, the other 670 CFM Throttle Body option is the Big Block Chevy 454 Throttle Body.
The 93 ~ 95 TBI computer with Red / Blue connectors is 8192 Baud / 64K PROM. The early TBI computer is 160 Baud / 4K PROM. The 93 ~ 95 TBI computer with Red / Blue connectors is about 51.2 times faster and the PROM has 16 times more memory.
Don't tell anyone about the Red / Blue TBI computer, prices might increase.
dave w
Does this look like a good deal?
Seems a touch on the high side for price, considering it's supposed to be a 350 Memcal and you don't have to waste time searching a salvage yard to pull one from, it's still a fair price.
dave w
Thanks for everything so far guys. I have continued my research and played with TunerproRT, and I think I can do this. I ordered my Vortec crate motor over the weekend and it should be in tomorrow. Next thing on my list is tuning equipment. I think I'm going to order the APU1 AutoProm package, a G1 adapter and S2 ZIF. Does this sound like the right combo for the 427 ECM I'm going to get?
My personal choice would the Ostrich 2.0 emulator, which eliminates the need for a chip!The emulator allows updating the .bin file, even with the engine running.
dave w
I must be confused. So, if I buy the Ostrich 2.0, wouldn't I still need a chip burner/reader so I can drive without my laptop once I get it tuned right? According to Moates.net the "APU1 AutoProm package" is an all-in-one burner/reader, datalogger, emulator that comes with Emulator cable, ALDL cable and 2 chips. Does the Ostrich 2.0 have a better emulator function than the APU1?My personal choice would the Ostrich 2.0 emulator, which eliminates the need for a chip!
dave w
Making progress, ordered my Ostrich 2.0, and G1 adapter, then after work I found this at Pick N Pull today for $28, with a 6 month warranty.
That seems to be very good deal. The BJYK Memcal, based on the information available to me, is from a 1995 5.7 Liter / Automatic Trans.
dave w
I was not looking forward to repining my stock wiring harness for the 427 PCM, so instead I made an adapter with the plug from my old ECM. If anyone sees a reason this won't work, let me know. The only question I have is in regards to Pins E14 (MAP Reference/5 volt Ref) and F14 (TP Reference/5 volt Ref) which according to the pin out spreadsheet both go to Pin C14. There aren't any notes about it and the chart with color codes shows pin C14 going to pin E14 only, it doesn't mention F14. I soldered both wires to pin C14, am I going to fry something by doing this?
Your Pick-n-Pull has much better deals than the ones I go to! That would be around $60 out the door with a 30 day warranty around here.
1973 K-5 Blazer, TBI 350, TH400, 1 ton axles & 38" SSRs'
1975 280Z, TBI 350, 700R4
1953 M-38A1, TBI Buick 231
1951 Ford Panel, 5.3 with 4L80E
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