GM TBI No Start Jeep 4.0 I6

[Baskinator]

The injectors do pulse and seem to spray a nice cone shape as they should.

IIRC, the MAP sensor read at exactly 4.8volts- pretty close to sea level here. TPS is set at .51volts, and does increase with throttle movement (live data through tunerpro with key on).

I didn't plan to use the knock sensor at all. I had read somewhere about using a resistor in place of the knock sensor wiring, but I didn't know if this applied to me. I may use a VSS someday, but the Eagle has an odd mechanical speedo gear and cable, and I have plans for a digital gauge cluster in the future.

[Baskinator]

I tested coil resistances, which are still within tolerance, and it is getting 12 volts. I also swapped in a different coil just for testing, and still nothing. Cap and rotor are good, and the plug wires are a good set of make-your-own MSD wires.

I will have to triple check that the ignition wires from the module are going to the right pins on the ecm. Otherwise, everything I can think of in the ignition system is good, except for MAYBE rotor phasing.

I had noticed that the ecm thinks it's in Drive while starting. Would this have an effect on it without the Neutral safety switch hooked up?

[JeepsAndGuns]

What about the pickup coil wires? How are they connected to the ignition module? I assume its a good stock (or stock replacement) pickup coil with a orange and purple wires? On the GM ignition module, there are two terminals, P (positive) and N (negative). The purple wire on the pickup goes to the pos terminal and the orange wire goes to the neg terminal. Also make sure the black wire coming from the distributor has a good ground too. I grounded mine to the same heat sink I have my ignition module on.

Also, I had a problem when I first installed my tbi system years ago. I had installed a new distributor pickup in the distributor (cause the one that was in there, the plastic was cracked) It was a advance auto pickup. Anyways, it would barely run and backfire, sputter and thats about it. I ran around in circles forever chasing my tail swapping out everything and the last thing I did was replace the pickup cause everything wanted to point to that, but I kept dismissing it because it was new. Anyways I installed the most expensive one napa had and my problems were solved.
Cant say thats your problem, but just wanted to put the idea out there. But it does kinda almost sound ignition related to me.

[Baskinator]

Thanks for the reply! I have tested the magnetic pickup and gapped it .008" from the reluctor, it was also known working before the swap. The wires to the module are all good, redone with audio grade connectors, and it gets the same voltage readings at the module as the pickup sends immediately from the distributor connector. All my ground wires go directly to the engine block with good 12 gauge wire to where the battery connects.

It does get good blue spark (tested with an HEI spark tester), and it also has good fuel cones spraying from the injectors (no drips). I'm thinking it's a timing issue, as it sometimes backfires while trying to start. However, the mechanical advance is locked down, the rotor points to #1 plug on the compression stroke, and it is not 180 out. I also tested a different, brand new distributor I had for kicks- same result.

At this point I will probably need to set the rotor phasing to rule that out. Just strange that it was running before and not now. Still no engine codes. Only other thing I can think of is the MAP sensor might be bad.