that is nice. Mine looks like a pile of turds. Kind of makes it hard to find where their is interference. i do have all the plastic wire wrapping i was just waiting until the weather got warmer. right now its -9f out and i dont have a heated garage.
that is nice. Mine looks like a pile of turds. Kind of makes it hard to find where their is interference. i do have all the plastic wire wrapping i was just waiting until the weather got warmer. right now its -9f out and i dont have a heated garage.
Most of the time 2" is not enough distance between plug wires and EFI harness.
The man who says something is impossible, is usually interrupted by the man doing it.
I don't have a heated garage either. That is why my jeep project is on hold until spring. I have been doing the work under a metal carport. I had wires everywhere also at first. I was just trying to show you a way to route the wires to minimize interference. Here is what my dash wiring looks like at the moment. It takes time to sort this stuff out when you do the conversions. This is a 1953 Willys M38A1 I have been working on for 3 years. EFI harness is out of a 1995 fullsize Chevy Blazer. The fusebox, steering column and associated wiring is from a 1993 S10 blazer. The second pic shows some of the carport I have been working under. No sides on it. Just a roof...Thats all. I was not trying to put down your work or your wiring. I was just trying to help you get your problem solved. You know it runs and the sensors work. You can start bundling the harness back together and routing it in a way that minimizes it's proximity to the ignition system. I always have a concern with grounds. That is why I mentioned cleaning them up with a wire wheel. I know you are frustrated with all the issues you have had. You are making progress though.
Some strange observations. I disconnected power to the coil so i could rule out spark plug wire interference. I also disconnected the alternator. Here is the weird part. I had tuner pro connected without any errors and when i went to turn over the motor the starter did not engage the flywheel but i still started getting errors in my data. So with only the starter spinning i was getting errors. Does that point to anything?
I would verify all of your power and ground connections, but I don't think I'd worry too much about anything until the harness is taped, loomed and clamped where you want it. Or at least zip tie it into bundles about where it should be. I'm fairly sure that your starter is putting out some EMI that could cause errors, but those would go away once the engine is running.
sturgillbd, your M-38A1 body looks much nicer than mine! It'll be a nice toy once it's finished!
1973 K-5 Blazer, TBI 350, TH400, 1 ton axles & 38" SSRs'
1975 280Z, TBI 350, 700R4
1953 M-38A1, TBI Buick 231
1951 Ford Panel, 5.3 with 4L80E
The starter has brushes and a commutator. It is a high current DC motor. When the starter turns, there are sparks at the brushes and a starter makes lots of noise into the electrical system. That is normal. Also when the starter turns, it usually pulls the battery voltage down somewhat, especially when turning over an engine. I get data errors also when connected to the ecm with TunerPro and starting a vehicle. Normally you start looking at data with the engine running. If you bundle the harness and get it away from the ignition system, I believe your data will be much better. I also assume you have the three grounds from the ecm connected to the engine ground. The three grounds are on pins A12, D1 and D6.
I guess finishing up the harness is going to be put on hold for now due to the fact that its freaking cold outside and i have next to no time with school. As a side note i did unplug the CTS when the engine warmed up and the backfire through the intake went away and the throttle response was so fast and precise. I guess that basically points to a fueling issue. Seeing as i dont have much time left to exchange the ecm at the junk yard are we pretty sure this ecm is good? I get good data with key on, the CEL now works, and my IAC now works, and it does not idle as rough anymore. Is their a definitive way to test the ecm? I just want to make sure because tomorrow i thought i might solder in my chip adapter to the new ecm so i can turn off the EGR and stuff. Does that sound like a good idea?
I believe your ecm is good. The engine will probably run better also after the harness gets bundled and away from ignition system. The noise will affect the fuel and spark because it is not a clean signal coming from the sensors such as O2, tps, cts etc. Before you bundle it up, make sure all of the grounds are there that I mentioned in the previous post. Clean your grounds and put something on them to prevent corrosion. That will save you problems later on down the road. It is supposed to get colder the rest of the week here. We have about 10" of snow on the ground from the snow storm today. It will hang around for a few days because lows are supposed to be in the single digits and highs in the teens to around 20. Winter has finally arrived here. You guys up north have been hammered this winter.
where i am the snow is not to bad and i am pretty happy it keeps coming on a monday because i have only had one monday of school since january. the rest of the mondays have been canceled. Tomorrow a will solder in my chip adapter. I bought a solder sucker from amazon and they made a mistake and sent me two, yay. I looked up solder sucker mods and today i added a silicone fuel line from my nitro rc truck to the end of the solder sucker so i can get a good seal with the board and really pull the solder off. Ill see how it works tomorrow.
I am having some problems. I soldered in my chip adapter and burnt a ASDU chip. Anyway The truck runs but the cel flashes telling me i have a bad ecm. The Iac stopped working. I am going to try and reseat my prom.
Ok so the truck is running off of that smaller chip to the side of the prom. I took the prom out and it ran the same. I think i did a good job at soldering in the adapter. Here are some pics of the install. am i not soldering it in the right way? It runs exactly like it used to which leads me to believe the old ecm was also running of the secondary chip.
I think we found your problem...
That ZIF socket is not an adapter.
The G2 adapter actually sets hardware addressing of the chip so that the correct section (addresses) of the chip are read.
A simple work around is to short pins 1,2,3, 28 and 27 or it's possibly 1,2, 28, 27, 26. I don't recall off hand but there is information on it on this forum and through Google search for 24 to 28 pin adpater in a C3 ECM.
Here's what you need to use a 28 pin EEPROM in a C3 ECM: https://www.moates.net/g2-memory-ada....html?cPath=64
The man who says something is impossible, is usually interrupted by the man doing it.
i wish it was that easy. I did the workaround to short out the pins. I posted the pics in a tread a while back but i cant find it.
Check continuity between all bridged pins 5 pins with an ohmmeter. Also, make sure you programmed the chip with the proper offset. In flash and burn program or in tunerpro set
Buffer Start -> End Chip Start -> End
000000 -> 000FFF 00F000 -> 00FFFF
http://support.moates.net/programmin...using-offsets/
Last edited by sturgillbd; 02-18-2015 at 01:13 AM. Reason: Add link to programming using offsets
But it is that easy, I've done it several times. Though I usually install a 24 pin DIP socket directly to the ECM daughter board, then use a modified 28 pin DIP socket stacked on top. I don't usually use a ZIF socket but if I do, I stack it on top of the modified 28 pin DIP socket.Originally Posted by joegreen
I know other people have soldered to the pins directly on the EEPROM, but I don't like this idea, it just doesn't feel safe to me, even though others have not had an issue with it. I don't recall if the offsets need to be left at 00000, or changed as you would normally do with a non modified EEPROM.
The man who says something is impossible, is usually interrupted by the man doing it.
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