The "Tan Brick" aka my 1997 Express Cobra conversion

[Nasty-Z]

Nice

Ordered up the blade and you are correct , I use the old 4 bolt mount with a Hayden Severe duty clutch , so I will probably just swap the blade out .

Thanks for the info .

Oh , You will absolutely LOVE the Mag Hytec stuff , I run their pan ('80E) and diff cover (14BFF) on my Dually and have for years , top quality stuff.

Thanks again

TOM

[Fast355]

Messed around a bit this week and got the Express tuned up and running right and about to take it to the shop that does my exhaust work either next week or the week after. Changed all kinds of fun parts like motor mounts, the transmission mount, fuel pump, front brake hoses, rotors, pads, rebuilt the calipers with new hardware and seals and finally removed the annoyingly loud exhaust to make way for the school bus muffler next week or two.

Got a clip of it running right after a 60*F cold start after sitting for nearly 2 months.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hygrGX24-dc

[Fast355]

Finally got around to getting my exhaust setup, used the same shop I have for years. Ended up not using a few of the pieces I had bought as we found some substitutes that worked better. It is very quiet for a smallblock with long tube Tri-Y headers. I don't feel I lost any power and it runs strong all the way through the powerband.

[Fast355]

I have done some tuning for the new exhaust setup and it is drawing a bit more airflow in the low-midrange than before which frankly is surprising.

I recently added a Tow/Haul button for the 0411 and created myself a normal driving map and a "HAUL @$$" mode. The normal driving map is in the stock shift point location and locks the converter at part throttle acceleration and WOT in 2nd through 4th gears. Normal acceleration is 1-2, 2 lock, 3rd (unlock during upshift followed by immediate relock), then 4th (unlock during upshift followed by immediate relock). Under normal driving the RPM stays in the 1,000-2,500 rpm range with full throttle operating between 3,500 and 5,000 rpm. I had to slightly tweak the spark map for the additional load as the knock sensor was picking up knock in the 2,500-4,500 rpm range under load. Last tank I got 13.7 MPG all city.

Here is a WOT pull shifting at 5,000 rpm with WOT converter lockup in 2nd and 3rd.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-6DZhPN7VHQ

[Fast355]

Picked up a complete 1-ton suspension including a GM 10.5" full floating 14-bolt to rebuild and swap under this van from a 1999 G3500. I got the coil springs, lower control arms, forged upper control arms, spindles, 8 lug rotors, 8600 GVW calipers, steering linkages, and sway bar. I got the leaf springs, shackles, rear-end mounting plates, and u-bolts. I also snagged the hydroboost setup. Have been ordering parts to rebuild the suspension, regear the 10.5, and install a limited slip. I am planning on running a set of 2001-2008 GM HD truck 16" wheels and 31.5" LT tires when I convert the suspension over. I relocated and rewired my trailer brake controller and added a circuit to the 7-pin to charge a "house" battery on the trailer from the vans auxiliary "house" AGM battery on the frame which charges separate of the starting battery through an isolator.

[Fast355]

Started the Hydroboost conversion after work today. It bolts in with no modifications on the Express. No cutting or drilling. Just swap the booster, pedal and master cylinder and change the resivoir and fluid hoses. My junkyard pull is filthy but the whole engine compartmemt looked like that. Leaks everywhere. Will be cleaning the booster before I install it with new hoses.

[1project2many]

I probably should have mentioned this before your swap. The Savana / Express HB Master Cylinder is "quick takeup" design. On our buses with 3 1/2 X 13 rear drums, several factors including this MC contribute to rear shoe overheating. We have gone a long way toward making the rear brakes on the '97-'02 buses last as long as they did on the 95 and down vehicles, and one experiment was using the older MC in the newer van. With the older cylinder the brakes apply quickly without the slow, lazy feeling that accompanies most quick takeup m/cyls. It requires a little more pedal effort but it's really not bad. Ultimately, anyone wh's driven for years appreciates the "direct" feeling provided by the older m/cyl.

Additionally, if your van has "auto adjust" built into the park brake pedal, this mechanism works to keep tension on the park brake cable so the brake is always in adjustment. We've found this can prevent shoes from retracting fully when the brake is released. We switched long ago to a park brake pedal from a '99 K30 truck (others may be the same). If you decide to pursue this change I can provide a few more details.

Finally, we've replaced the rear wheel cylinders with smaller diameter versions from a 3/4 ton van and tried to choose front pads that are a bit more agressive. This places more of the work to stop the vehicle on the front brakes. We get about 20k miles between pad swaps for these stop and go, in city vehicles. This may not seem optimal but a pad replacement can be done in 1/2 hr where a rear brake job including replacing drums can require 4 hrs or more.

Anyway, keep up the good work.