Been emailing back and forth with Moates tech support, looks like there may be an issue with my Autoprom. They are going to send me a new memory chip that goes inside the Autoprom.
Been emailing back and forth with Moates tech support, looks like there may be an issue with my Autoprom. They are going to send me a new memory chip that goes inside the Autoprom.
-1999 Hugger Orange SS, LS2 402 T56, 9 inch Ford 3.90 gears, Tuned with HP Tuners
-2002 Cavalier, Tuned with HP Tuners
-1994 Full Size Blazer ,383 TBI 4L60E, 4.10's, Tuned with Tunerpro RT (Where it all began)
So I figured out my issue, I forgot to jumper the pins on the memcal. I had the VE pretty well tuned, after jumping the memcal it made my tune very lean. Like 150 BLM's. Logged it on the way home from work and ran the BLM spreadsheet. Much better now, the truck runs way smoother, like stock smooth now. Starting to really like this setup. The main thing I like is the off idle transition is very smooth.
I have read a few posts on here saying you do not need the jumper, I am here to tell you, that you most certainly do.
-1999 Hugger Orange SS, LS2 402 T56, 9 inch Ford 3.90 gears, Tuned with HP Tuners
-2002 Cavalier, Tuned with HP Tuners
-1994 Full Size Blazer ,383 TBI 4L60E, 4.10's, Tuned with Tunerpro RT (Where it all began)
Good to hear... I'm kind of on the fence about doing a MPFI setup instead of the 3764 and this thread had me pushed toward not doing it, I can't fucking stand an idle vibration, it drives me nuts.Originally Posted by 96lt4c4
94 Blazer, Turbo'd 350 TBI - DD
1991 2500 Suburban Adventure truck - 4wd conversion, 4-link F/R, 582ci CNP Big Block with Terminator X EFI backed by a 6L90 and twin stick'd NP205 t-case
2012 Porsche Panamera Turbo - Date night car :)
1979 16' Action Marine/"Johnny Cash" Merc Bridgeport Champ Motor - Metalflake Maniac
I remember reading that too, back when I was tuning mine. So one day I installed a memcal that did not have the jumper in it just to see what it would do. I cant remember all the details, I just remember it ran like doo-doo. I put the jumpered memcal back in.
Glad you got your issue figured out!
79 Jeep Cherokee, AMC 401, T-18 manual trans, hydroboost, 16197427 MPFI system---the toy
93 Jeep YJ Wrangler, 4.0L, 5 speed, 8.8 rear, homebrew hub conversion and big brakes, hydroboost, 2.5in OME lift, 31x10.50's---the daily driver
99 Jeep WJ Grand Cherokee limited, 4.0L, auto, 2wd, leather and power everything, 99% stock---the long distance highway ride.
When I did this to my boat years ago, I cut the jumper where I could short and un-short it with the engine running just to see what it would do. I remember it running smoother with it shorted. I found a couple more things in the CPI tune that are different in the TBI tune that could effect idle.
For some reason Synchronous Idle is set, thought that was only for TBI?
There is an injector firing delay, Degrees of Delay from DRP to Injector Firing, you should be able to play around with this and see if it does anything. TBI is set to 0, CPI is 15 degrees.
In the LS1 world there is what is called EOIT, End of Injection Timing, this allows you to move the injection timing around to help with large cams that have a lot of overlap to keep more fuel in the combustion chamber. Thats why a lot of cammed cars exhausts stink so bad. Like my Camaro. By moving this number around you can change the injector timing to fire the injectors on a closed exhaust valve which helps with this issue. I am wondering if this is a earlier version of this.
Also the, Async Short BPW Offset vs. BPW , should really effect idle quality. In the LS1 HP Tuners world, its called a Short Pulse Adder. With large injectors like my 42 lbs-ers in my Camaro, I was having all kinds of issues until I got this table correct. Since I am running stock LT1 injectors, in the truck, at stock LT1 fuel pressure, I was able to get this directly out of a stock LT1 .bin.
Before jumping the pins on the memcal, the idle had an oscilating "woop-woop-woop" sound to it, with a little feel of a miss sitting in the truck. Was really annoying.
Last edited by 96lt4c4; 10-26-2014 at 04:53 PM.
-1999 Hugger Orange SS, LS2 402 T56, 9 inch Ford 3.90 gears, Tuned with HP Tuners
-2002 Cavalier, Tuned with HP Tuners
-1994 Full Size Blazer ,383 TBI 4L60E, 4.10's, Tuned with Tunerpro RT (Where it all began)
Makes a lot of sense really, instead of the injectors firing fuel on the throttle blades, they fire the fuel at the back of the valves, therefor the fuel delivery delay between TBI and MPFI.
89 K1500 Scottsdale 5.7L 5spd 3:42 RamJet cam Dart iron TBI heads 427 PCM swap
95 C2500 Cheyenne 6.5L turbo diesel 4L80e 4:10 DB2-4911 Manual pump conversion 0411 PCM trans control 2Bar COS
05 Outback XT 2.5L turbo gas auto
If you try that, let us know what it does. Kinda almost make me curious now.
79 Jeep Cherokee, AMC 401, T-18 manual trans, hydroboost, 16197427 MPFI system---the toy
93 Jeep YJ Wrangler, 4.0L, 5 speed, 8.8 rear, homebrew hub conversion and big brakes, hydroboost, 2.5in OME lift, 31x10.50's---the daily driver
99 Jeep WJ Grand Cherokee limited, 4.0L, auto, 2wd, leather and power everything, 99% stock---the long distance highway ride.
Another thing I have noticed since doing this swap is that I am not running stoich, 14.7, pretty much everywhere, entire RPM range in closed loop. WOT AFR is fine. I have my wide band in the drivers side header so its a possibility that it could only be that bank. I may need to weld another bung in after the Y comes together to see what I am getting there. I raised my rich.lean and mean 02 voltages and that helped. I was seeing 16's on the wide-band at idle. I did have header leak but I fixed that. I don't think I have any vacuum leaks.
Made a little video of her running last night.
-1999 Hugger Orange SS, LS2 402 T56, 9 inch Ford 3.90 gears, Tuned with HP Tuners
-2002 Cavalier, Tuned with HP Tuners
-1994 Full Size Blazer ,383 TBI 4L60E, 4.10's, Tuned with Tunerpro RT (Where it all began)
Thats got a really smooth idle. You should hear mine...lol. Sounds like it has a big cam in it. But I love the idle sound on mine! I get lots of comments about it sounding good. I need to try and take a video of it. Not sure if my phone would pick up the sound real good.
79 Jeep Cherokee, AMC 401, T-18 manual trans, hydroboost, 16197427 MPFI system---the toy
93 Jeep YJ Wrangler, 4.0L, 5 speed, 8.8 rear, homebrew hub conversion and big brakes, hydroboost, 2.5in OME lift, 31x10.50's---the daily driver
99 Jeep WJ Grand Cherokee limited, 4.0L, auto, 2wd, leather and power everything, 99% stock---the long distance highway ride.
Got a new issue that has showed up since its gotten cold. 1st cold start, it will start and die. Then after that its fine. Not real sure whats going on. I have played around with idle speed in the tune, raised in cold areas, didn't seem to help. I am wondering if maybe it could have something to do with fuel draining out of the rails back to the tank. Fuel pump is new so I know the check valve in the pump is good. unless its on the return side. Any ideas?
-1999 Hugger Orange SS, LS2 402 T56, 9 inch Ford 3.90 gears, Tuned with HP Tuners
-2002 Cavalier, Tuned with HP Tuners
-1994 Full Size Blazer ,383 TBI 4L60E, 4.10's, Tuned with Tunerpro RT (Where it all began)
My Titan was doing the same thing after headers. Give it some more crank fuel and choke enrichment at that affected temperature and see if it helps. Might also put a little more base timing in the distributor. I like 10* initial. Helps for starting especially with Vortec heads.
Heh, I sometimes have the exact same issue in cold weather. I thought it was just a quirk only mine had. Mine doesnt do it all the time, but does every now and then. I have my bin set to prime the fuel pump for 10 seconds after the key is turned on, and always let it set and prime for 2-3 seconds thinking it could be air in the lines. It doesnt seem to matter.
79 Jeep Cherokee, AMC 401, T-18 manual trans, hydroboost, 16197427 MPFI system---the toy
93 Jeep YJ Wrangler, 4.0L, 5 speed, 8.8 rear, homebrew hub conversion and big brakes, hydroboost, 2.5in OME lift, 31x10.50's---the daily driver
99 Jeep WJ Grand Cherokee limited, 4.0L, auto, 2wd, leather and power everything, 99% stock---the long distance highway ride.
So you add the timing at the distributor, then also put the initial timing in tune at 10 degrees? this should subtract 10 degrees from all your timing tables right? You still end up with the same amount of timing either way, right? Just trying to understand how this would effect anything. By all means if it works I am willing to try it. I have always set the initial to 0.
-1999 Hugger Orange SS, LS2 402 T56, 9 inch Ford 3.90 gears, Tuned with HP Tuners
-2002 Cavalier, Tuned with HP Tuners
-1994 Full Size Blazer ,383 TBI 4L60E, 4.10's, Tuned with Tunerpro RT (Where it all began)
Gives you more cranking timing and more timing before the EST system starts to work. You can also use this to play with the injector timing. You subtract 10* from the tune, by adjusting the Initial value in the tune from 0 to 10*.
I never liked how the Express started with the cam either until I set the cranking timing to 10* across the board. It had some out there values (some negative and some positive depending on coolant temp) that caused it to nearly flood on startup in cool/cold weather and when it would fire, ground the starter on the flexplate pretty badly with a loud Zing. I also zero'd out the startup flare spark retard, cannot remember if the 7427 has that or not.
I have actually changed mine from 10* advanced back to 0*. But the cold start stall is still there.
I had my distributor set to 10* for the longest time and my bin set to match it. I had been fighting my AFR being all over the place for the longest time. I ended up one day setting my base timing back to 0 and readjusting the bin to match and blammo, my AFR is now stable. IDK what it effected, but it did something. I dont see how it really effected anything concidering I set to bin to account for the 10* initial timing. So I'm not sure.
I would be interested to see if you may or may not have a simillar issue.
79 Jeep Cherokee, AMC 401, T-18 manual trans, hydroboost, 16197427 MPFI system---the toy
93 Jeep YJ Wrangler, 4.0L, 5 speed, 8.8 rear, homebrew hub conversion and big brakes, hydroboost, 2.5in OME lift, 31x10.50's---the daily driver
99 Jeep WJ Grand Cherokee limited, 4.0L, auto, 2wd, leather and power everything, 99% stock---the long distance highway ride.
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