HI,
I finally got TunerPro RT to work with my complicated setup (MAC etc). :)
Attached are two short scans.
This is basically with a stock calibration (BHDH engine tables copied into a $0D mask (4L60))... biggest concern is a lot of knocking ... especially in 4th gear when "lugging". This is my first tuning experience so any advice is totally appreciated.
unless its an exhaust leak, should be easy stuff, just identify the range of map and rpm, and pull x amount of timing from that and surrounding cells. maybe add a tiny amount of fuel to ve in that area as well.
how to find x without an emulator? how bout back your distributer off 3 degrees, drive it. problem solved? no? try a bit more. once you find the sweet spot set distributor back, you've found x.
oh and whatever stops the pinging, go x-2 and at least 2 surrounding cells for safety in case of bad fuel or whatever.
OK- thanks. Can you explain just a bit about the VE table? What it is and what it does?
Thanks for your patience and help!!
well im assuming you have no maf, so you're running speed density
ve means volumetric efficiency
its a table that represents the amount of air your engine can consume at a particular rpm (speed) and vacuum (density)
once it figures out how much air its probably drawing it can calculate fuel
so that's where you adjust fueling. increase a ve cell = more fuel.
Yep, this is no maf... Speed Density.
When reviewing my log I notice that the Knock Retard seems to be limited to 4.0, but the "Spark Retard" tables are set to more like 8.1 ... I am wondering why I dont automatically get more retard when the knock sensor fires... thoughts?
And one other question... there is a Main Spark Table vs MAP vs RPM for Open Throttle and one for Closed Throttle.... anyone care to explain what that really means I guess? What determines Open and Closed... a certain TPS threshold voltage or something? Thanks!!
Its exactly like it sounds. Closed throttle table is used basicly for idle and near idle. Once you get above a specific tps % or speed, it switches to the open throttle table. There are parameters for this that can be changed if needed, but I dont really see a need or reason to change them. I dont know the addreses or titles off the top of my head.
But since your problem is while driving, you will want to adjust the open throttle table.
79 Jeep Cherokee, AMC 401, T-18 manual trans, hydroboost, 16197427 MPFI system---the toy
93 Jeep YJ Wrangler, 4.0L, 5 speed, 8.8 rear, homebrew hub conversion and big brakes, hydroboost, 2.5in OME lift, 31x10.50's---the daily driver
99 Jeep WJ Grand Cherokee limited, 4.0L, auto, 2wd, leather and power everything, 99% stock---the long distance highway ride.
OK Thanks.
And any idea on this? I see a maximum of 4.0 degree's retard in the logfile. The tables for spark retard seem to call for more like 8.1 degree's.... I am just curious at this point as to what might be limiting the knock spark retard to 4.0. Where would I look for that?
Thanks.
EGR valve fitted? Is it enabled? Is it working correctly? Truck shouldn't knock with a stock spark table, something else is going on...
94 Blazer, Turbo'd 350 TBI - DD
1991 2500 Suburban Adventure truck - 4wd conversion, 4-link F/R, 582ci CNP Big Block with Terminator X EFI backed by a 6L90 and twin stick'd NP205 t-case
2012 Porsche Panamera Turbo - Date night car :)
1979 16' Action Marine/"Johnny Cash" Merc Bridgeport Champ Motor - Metalflake Maniac
I removed the EGR... For one, it wont fit with tall valve covers... for two, a few people told me "oh you dont need an EGR" --- :) What are your thoughts on that?
you dont need one, but it needs to be tuned out if removed. has it been tuned out? you do realize if you dont remove the EGR spark advance, it's adding a bunch when it thinks the EGR is open, right?
I cant recall the details right now of what I did but I think I put the EGR enable temperature (or was it RPM) very high. In anycase, the logfile shows that there is no requested EGR throughout the entire run. Do I need more than that as far as "tuning it out" goes? Thanks!!! Learning a lot!
should be enough. must just be excess timing.
Since you just copied tables from one mask to another, maybe the new mask has timing adders that the other one doesn't.
or heres another one, whats your distributor base timing?
I copied ALL the engine stuff into $0D so I was hoping it wouldn't have any weird stuff going on. According to the log the total advance requested is going up to like 40 degree's or so... seems like a lot to me but I am new at this.
Base timing is set exactly to 4 degree's BTDC according to the marker which I think is correct....
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